Big Spring Service
#1
Big Spring Service
Finally started on my car, doing the front control arm and sway bar bushings, PDK fluid , engine oil, Differential oil and the thermostat housing (big thanks to my friend Yves for letting me use his shop and lift )
Got the Lower pan off
Ciaka left out a small step on his incredible write up, in order to get the line off the hanger, you first have to unplug the brake sensor, and you do that by pushing down on the tab so it lifts a latch, my tab is cracked so the alternative method is to stick very small flat screwdriver in from the back lifting the latch
First snag, seems the bolts for the brake calipers on the 4S are different than the Turbos (such as Ciaka's and Yves') So have to hit the stores tomorrow and find the right size E Torx
there are worse places to be working on a car - get a little frustrated, just take a short break and admire the view - works every time
Got the Lower pan off
Ciaka left out a small step on his incredible write up, in order to get the line off the hanger, you first have to unplug the brake sensor, and you do that by pushing down on the tab so it lifts a latch, my tab is cracked so the alternative method is to stick very small flat screwdriver in from the back lifting the latch
First snag, seems the bolts for the brake calipers on the 4S are different than the Turbos (such as Ciaka's and Yves') So have to hit the stores tomorrow and find the right size E Torx
there are worse places to be working on a car - get a little frustrated, just take a short break and admire the view - works every time
#2
Woah! Yves has a nice garage, with a view even!!! When I saw my wife she looked like she's watching Netflix, even though she said she's looking for a Panamera replacement. Please let us know how your bushings work out! Still interested if things calm down as I suspect, now that I've changed the oil........
#6
I did it a couple of months ago. I have to be honest, I did not really notice a big difference (I even 'reset' it), but it gave me some peace of mind.
#7
Day 2
I couldn't find a place that sold the External Torx bits in size E20, did find some "Universal" sockets at Lowes, did the trick
looks like the bolts to the brake shield were blue locktited on previously
I noticed I had no air deflectors on the lower control arm, so ordered some, more brake cooling is always better
got the Shock out
My new Polyurethane bushings
packing the grease grooves to help keep it from squeaking
upper arm back in
stopped raining fro a bit while I ate lunch
Time to drop the lower arm
Got the lower arm off and called it a day, will pull the old bushing off and install the new ones tomorrow
I couldn't find a place that sold the External Torx bits in size E20, did find some "Universal" sockets at Lowes, did the trick
looks like the bolts to the brake shield were blue locktited on previously
I noticed I had no air deflectors on the lower control arm, so ordered some, more brake cooling is always better
got the Shock out
My new Polyurethane bushings
packing the grease grooves to help keep it from squeaking
upper arm back in
stopped raining fro a bit while I ate lunch
Time to drop the lower arm
Got the lower arm off and called it a day, will pull the old bushing off and install the new ones tomorrow
Last edited by DogWood; 05-17-2020 at 10:41 PM.
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#9
Nice!
Did you use any tool such as PIWIS II, III, or aftermarket to transfer the N2 air out of the strut first?
When the right front strut leaked on ours House recommended just the upper control arm as the cause for suspension noise. I must admit I don't hear anything from that side now. I do have two Siberian bushings I got for the upper left side, it's now creaking for lack of a better better description.
Did you use any tool such as PIWIS II, III, or aftermarket to transfer the N2 air out of the strut first?
When the right front strut leaked on ours House recommended just the upper control arm as the cause for suspension noise. I must admit I don't hear anything from that side now. I do have two Siberian bushings I got for the upper left side, it's now creaking for lack of a better better description.
#10
David, I'm using a bearing puller and a jerry rigged "press" to get the bushings out.
The poly bushings I'm using are bushings I made, major difference between them and the stock bushings other than what they are made of is
how they are made, the stock bushings the bolt guides are bonded to the outer housing, so each movement of the suspension twists the rubber,
with mine they are separate pieces so the only real force on them is compression.
The poly bushings I'm using are bushings I made, major difference between them and the stock bushings other than what they are made of is
how they are made, the stock bushings the bolt guides are bonded to the outer housing, so each movement of the suspension twists the rubber,
with mine they are separate pieces so the only real force on them is compression.
#11
Nice!
Did you use any tool such as PIWIS II, III, or aftermarket to transfer the N2 air out of the strut first?
When the right front strut leaked on ours House recommended just the upper control arm as the cause for suspension noise. I must admit I don't hear anything from that side now. I do have two Siberian bushings I got for the upper left side, it's now creaking for lack of a better better description.
Did you use any tool such as PIWIS II, III, or aftermarket to transfer the N2 air out of the strut first?
When the right front strut leaked on ours House recommended just the upper control arm as the cause for suspension noise. I must admit I don't hear anything from that side now. I do have two Siberian bushings I got for the upper left side, it's now creaking for lack of a better better description.
I looked at the Siberian bushings and they are made the same way as the stock, they might last longer but I suspect they will fail the same way.
#13
Day 4
Got and early start for once and knocked out the passenger side, even though it is the "hard" side
got a bit too much paint on there
Why do I say it's the hard side, well this bolt that holds the upper arm in place is blind, you can't see it by looking down, this is where a bore scope comes in real handy, it's also better to have a light colored body
on Yves black Turbo this was really hard to see.
better idea of where the bolt is and how the bore scope was used
And I totally forgot to take pictures of the lower bushing in place h Well.
Next is Fluids
Got and early start for once and knocked out the passenger side, even though it is the "hard" side
got a bit too much paint on there
Why do I say it's the hard side, well this bolt that holds the upper arm in place is blind, you can't see it by looking down, this is where a bore scope comes in real handy, it's also better to have a light colored body
on Yves black Turbo this was really hard to see.
better idea of where the bolt is and how the bore scope was used
And I totally forgot to take pictures of the lower bushing in place h Well.
Next is Fluids
#14
Next is filling the air system and checking all the suspension work Then we'll put it back on the lift and change some fluids.
The nasty part is behind you. With the exception of the thermostat housing of course
The nasty part is behind you. With the exception of the thermostat housing of course