SS header crack welding
 

I've just received my new FVD stainless steel headers purchased on ebay. Unfortunately, there seems to be a small crack about an inch long in one of the downpipes.:mad:

Does anyone have any experience with welding SS headers?

Can this be performed so that the repair lasts, considering that the header may reach temperatures making it glow yellow during hard driving?

Thanks

Are these used?

If the base metal is still in good condition you would typically drill a hole at either end of the crack and tig weld it with a stainless rod, preferrably of a higher grade than the base metal.

Maybe post a pic so we can see the extent of the problem.

The headers are used, but seem to be in good condition except from the crack.

http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/p...rera/FVD-3.jpg

Looks easily repairable. Just bring it to someone experienced in tig welding stainless. Have it very clean and drill a hole at each end of the crack so it doesn't travel.

That sounds good!

Thanks for your help!!!

VERY important that the inside of any weld is carefully cleaned up. One bit of slag and you have a ruined turbocharger [as me how I know....:(].

It does look very minor. GOOD LUCK.
JR

Keep in mind that to repair a crack correctly you must have full penetration to the back side of your base metal. If you don't use a back purge you WILL have defective welds when making full penetration Tig welds on Stainless Steel tube and piping or thin metals for that matter. You have to shield the back side of the weld.

I think the header should be removed to do the welding. Even if you put grease on the bit tip there is still some chance of SS chips going to the turbo impeller when the holes are drilled, and they should be drilled as mentioned above.. Also you will be able to examine the back side of the weld. Most advise getting a new gasket but some say it's fine to reuse.

This step is very important. Cleaning the inside/outside is also important. I have a wire bottle brush that I fit down inside the pipes. Shielding the inside of the tube can be done by purging argon inside the pipe. I usually find a rubber gasket with plate clamped to one end and a gasket/plate with a hose nipple on the other end usually does the trick. I've sometimes just used masking tape and steel wool. Just depends on how much welding I'm doing. At first, I thought I was pretty decent at stainless welding. However, I didn't get good at welding stainless and good penetration until I figured titanium out.

Are you sure that's a crack and not just an a surface imperfection? That's a really weird place for a crack. Usually it starts at a weld or a seam unless there's some unnecessary stress on the turbo/headers system.