Track only: what base car to start with?

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  #16  
Old 11-26-2006, 07:28 PM
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I'm suprised that Todd hasn't chimed in with the spec Boxster. Better handling than almost anything else you can get and there is a built in race series when you are ready. With the cage it is just as stiff as any other tub and at 6'4" you fit.

Bro
 
  #17  
Old 11-26-2006, 08:00 PM
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I'd go with a BoxsterS older air cooled Porsche or Corvette if you want more brute force.
 
  #18  
Old 11-26-2006, 10:33 PM
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Originally Posted by tracktime
Fantastic advise, I feel realy fortunate that you guys took the time to spell all that out for me. Chris, a couple of questions about the S2000. Did you have the hard top and, if so, do you think I would fit with a helmet? My understanding is that it weighs 44 lbs. Also, how much better is the Evo MR than the RS? Let's say money was not an issue with the Evo, which model would you start out with to mod? I'm sure you've seen the Evo X concept car. I don't really care for the way it looks. From what I've read it may only come with a sequential transmission. I don't know about you, but I like all three pedals.
The RS is VERY light, but doesn't have ABS which is a real detriment on the track unless you are used to non-ABS cars. If you can get the MR, do it - aluminum roof, Bilsteins already, 6-speed, etc. My advice is to run the car stock for a while, get used to the car, how it rotates, etc., then start changing stuff. There are a ton of resources and I know a lot of people who tune Evos for a living. If you end up with an Evo, I'll get you pointed in the right direction.

As for the S2000, I had only the soft top. Some tracks will let you run w/o a roll bar, but not many. If you are going to seriously track an S2K, you're much better off with a good roll bar than the hard top, as many tracks will let you on w/just a roll bar vs. just a hard top. Both the hard top and roll bar are the best. As far as fitting in it with a helmet, I'd get a race seat and have it mounted as low as possible.
 
  #19  
Old 11-27-2006, 12:02 AM
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You can buy one nicely prepared 944 for the money. I can't imagine an evo taking the continual track abuse. I've seen several hondas, Rx7's and american muscle lose brakes and engines at the track. That's not to say a Pcar in indestructable, but my 944T held up for 4 years of track and ran great. I have a buddy with a 944 w 968 engine that runs low '24's at summit point. He has to run gt4 and held his own at his first club race. He runs in black with me and there hasn't been a car that could run with him. He's got about $18K total in a 2200 lb car. Its real quick. Figure out what class you plan to race before you decide, or if you're just out for seat time pick something cost effective. Best of luck! Have fun!!!
 
  #20  
Old 11-27-2006, 01:37 AM
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Sorry I haven't chimed in - don't check this forum that often, but I see that should really change. Yeah, the Boxster can get you a fantastic and fast track car that is really responsive and sensitive to your input - mid-engine is an advantage on 'feel'. Probably build a spec Boxster for about 23k all said and done. We try to make sure we can provide a 'kit' for those who have a donor car and want to put everything but the cage in themselves. Faster than a 944, mid-engine, and a heckuva lot of fun.
 
  #21  
Old 11-27-2006, 01:43 AM
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Im no expert on the topic so i wont even try...BUT, the last AutoX i went to (to watch a friend) the top 6 cars were:

1. EVO w/light mods
2. EVO stock
3. s2000
4.
5.
6. EVO w/light mods

Thought that was interesting after reading through your thread - Good Luck with your search.
 
  #22  
Old 11-27-2006, 09:17 AM
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Originally Posted by racerjsz
I can't imagine an evo taking the continual track abuse.
I hate to be an Evo fanboy here, but they really ARE that good. I have NEVER seen an Evo suffer brake failure (other than some boiled fluid) or have a component fail (other than clutches and a RARE diff). Most of the component failures were a combo of too much power and/or inexperienced driver.

Like the post about the Auto-X results said, the Evo is a winner more often than not. Check out www.socalevo.net and their track section. Tons of videos, discussions, etc. by some known racers and track junkies. You'd be shocked how many big-name racers/race car builders swear by the Evo.

Go drive one - you'll see what I mean...
 
  #23  
Old 11-27-2006, 09:56 AM
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Originally Posted by SKXF430
Get a used Elise and you won't even really have to mod it. Used prices are down to $30K
Great car, great on expendables, but if you hit something the fiberglass isn't cheap/easy to fix.
 
  #24  
Old 11-29-2006, 12:24 AM
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If you decide on a S2000, I have a supercharged one I'll sell for $19k.
 
  #25  
Old 11-29-2006, 08:14 PM
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Elise and Evo would be my choice. A C5 Z06 with some miles should be very competitive as well.
 
  #26  
Old 12-03-2006, 01:41 AM
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Thanks for that Evo link Chris. Wow, my head is spinning. Stroker kits, different turbos and, ecu reflashing, there's a lot of information there. If you were going to take a minimalist approach, what would you do to a stock Evo to improve it's performance?
 
  #27  
Old 12-03-2006, 09:19 AM
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ls1 rx7 would be my choice..
 
  #28  
Old 12-03-2006, 12:11 PM
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As mentioned before, you need to decide what class you'd like to run in. Everything else falls into place after that. I personally adore the Lotus Elise and the C5 Z06 for two of the greatest "out of the box" track cars, and they would both fall into your price range.

Good luck!
 
  #29  
Old 12-04-2006, 12:46 AM
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Great advice given in this thread.

Another option is renting. If you have limited time and want to focus on driving, most tracks are within spitting distance of someone who will rent, support and transport a car for you. If you plan on doing a half dozen track events per year, put everything in excel and add up your purchase/spares/maint/prep/repair/travel/storage/etc costs and you'll get a pretty healthy $ figure per event. Compare it to renting, and you may see it as yet another viable option. I've seen people doing it with cars, and I do it with karting. Let's you focus on driving.

If you do buy something, please don't fall into thinking you can build anything for under $20k. I started with a $2700 Miata donor and when all was done and sorted, it was a $27000 car. Granted, it could've been a $17000 car, but I didn't see any reason to show up with a backmarker. What would be the point. If you're just running DE's or open track days, then it's fine, but if you're building to run in a class, build to be in the top 5, and the rest is up to you. But don't build, unless you have $30k for the car and another $30k to campaign it for a full season.

If I had to do it over again, I'd have bought a well-built car from someone who had more money than driving skill and had fallen out of love after their first season racing--or got scared $hitless and cut things short because they didn't have the nerve to truly *race*. There are plenty of well-built cars out there that can be had for $.30 on the dollar. Do your research, and find one that's 90-95% to the way you'd want it and then spend money/time on getting it that last 5-10% to your liking. You'll get on track faster, save tons of dough, and spend more time driving.

Good luck, have fun, get all your safety stuff in like you're running in WCGT and drive the damned wheels off the car.
 
  #30  
Old 12-04-2006, 09:12 AM
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More great advice, on the finnancial truth, of preparing a car for the track/racing Super D. There's a big difference between just putting together a car and, actually creating a competitive one. I had never even thought about the rental option, something else to serioulsy consider. Everybody wants their own car, set up just the way they like, but there are many logistical costs associated with that. A rental would definatly cut down on a lot of expenses.
 


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