under normal driving conditions, park feel the spokes & right rear is very hot, to the point of burning your hand, any ideas guys?

Appreciate it...

Brent

 

Maybe you have a caliper that is not fully releasing and it's heating the rotor which in turn radiates out.

This is not good as it is stressing your tire.

Get that checked ASAP!

 

Thanks Gcalo

Never even thought about the tires, have 2 sets of cracked wheels (Spokes)though. What should a guy look for, E-brake seems completely released???

Brent

 

You could have abad wheel bearing as well. Do you hear any noises-grinding, light rotating sound?

If you have cracked spokes and you are still driving that car make sure your life insurance is paid up.


You could have a wheel out of round, etc, but by alll means get that checked ASAP.

 

That much heat is probably the brakes not fully releasing. Does it smell hot? It should.

 

It's possible your hand brake is not fully releasing and it's the caliper for the hand brake!

It has to be caliper related-hand brake or regulars.

 

If the wheels are forged, prolonged exposure to high temperatures COULD over-age or anneal the aluminum (both are VERY bad for the integrity of the alloy). This is a complex subject but it is hard to explain two sets of cracked wheels any other way. The wheels either have to be over-stressed, not the correct load rating, or the alloy has been impaired in some way.
I have seen this phenomenon when uninformed shops use inappropriate high temps for incorrect time periods when curing powder coatings, but you didn't mention anything about refinishing the wheels.
I have never been much of a fan of aftermarket refinishing of forged wheels. It is quite easy to impair the strength of the material by using the wrong temps or wrong time frames when curing a finish. Skilled manufacturers actually underage the material during initial heat treating, knowing that the alloy will be "cooked" again later during a curing cycle. This results in a "finished" wheel with the correct heat treat "recipe" and resulting "correct" Brinell hardness.
If you take the wheel to a competent aluminum shop, they can check the Brinell hardness and determine if the alloy is impaired.
If you need help with this, just PM me.

 

The above dissertation is great but the short of it is that you should not be driving that car before finding the cause of this problem!

That heat will dry the grease in the wheel bearing. If that seizes you got a huge big time problem with which to deal!

 

Thanks guys for all the excellent input! I think I may have found the culprit...

 

And that would be?

 

Found an electrical plug disconnected...(Anti Lock). Not 100% sure this is the fix. What do you guys think?
Thanks

 

That would lend credibility to my theory of a caliper not fully releasing.

If that proves so, have the wheel bearing seal checked for integrity, check rotor, etc..

That heat could do a ton of long term damage.

 

Thanks Guys!!! you were rite. After plugging the anti-lock electrical connector back in. Then excersizing the antilocks on wet grass (shhh) everything is back to par. Only thing was after excersizing the anti-locks we lost almost all the brake fluid. Topped off the brake fluid and everything checks OK for now...

What do u guys think??? comments, questions???

Thanks for all the input!!!

Brent

 

1) get the wheel bearing checked and repacked
2) have the brake rotor miked and turned and if warped replace
3) replace brake pads on that wheel
4) check that tire because the heat was high
5) maybe replace the wheels as well.

Don't take any chances. Heat is a silent killer. if that wheel bearing were to seize up you'll get an unpleasant surprise!

 

I'm on it, Thanks!!! those are great suggestions...

Brent