Service tiptronic trans fluid?
#1
Service tiptronic trans fluid?
I searched some past threads and can't seem to find out how to change my transmission fluid on my 2002 996TT tiptronic. I'd like to know:
a) Where to drain it?
b) Where to fill it?
c) What type of trans fluid?
d) How many quarts/liters?
e) What type of tools do I need other than a pump?
Anyone???
a) Where to drain it?
b) Where to fill it?
c) What type of trans fluid?
d) How many quarts/liters?
e) What type of tools do I need other than a pump?
Anyone???
Last edited by RickEager; 10-18-2009 at 06:59 PM.
#2
Not trying to sound mean, but I'd take that puppy to dealer for Tip fluid change.
I might be able to find fluid capacity but where to drain it from and where to fill it I have no idea. You want to be careful just trying loosening things that look like a drain, you can screw up transmission.
Seriously, you need to consider just letting dealer service do the job. I've changed my share of manual transmission fluid and it can be the nastiest smelliest stuff ever and a real PITA to get the fluid back in the tranny without getting it all over everything. I've changed the fluid in a few automatic transmissions (no Tip though) and it is not quite as stinky and messy -- auto tranny fluid a light oil -- as the stuff in a manual but still can be a bit of a mess and a chore.
Sincerely,
Macster.
I might be able to find fluid capacity but where to drain it from and where to fill it I have no idea. You want to be careful just trying loosening things that look like a drain, you can screw up transmission.
Seriously, you need to consider just letting dealer service do the job. I've changed my share of manual transmission fluid and it can be the nastiest smelliest stuff ever and a real PITA to get the fluid back in the tranny without getting it all over everything. I've changed the fluid in a few automatic transmissions (no Tip though) and it is not quite as stinky and messy -- auto tranny fluid a light oil -- as the stuff in a manual but still can be a bit of a mess and a chore.
Sincerely,
Macster.
#3
Well Rick,
I'm trying to figure out the same thing on my 2002 911TT. I actually posted a similar thread a few days ago and got the same answer as you did from one of the techs here
Being stubborn and loving DIY, plus having a lot of friends that are seasoned mechanics I'm currently researching the said subject. I already ordered a filter kit
I'll let you know if I find out more info.
I'm trying to figure out the same thing on my 2002 911TT. I actually posted a similar thread a few days ago and got the same answer as you did from one of the techs here
Being stubborn and loving DIY, plus having a lot of friends that are seasoned mechanics I'm currently researching the said subject. I already ordered a filter kit
I'll let you know if I find out more info.
#6
Well Rick,
I'm trying to figure out the same thing on my 2002 911TT. I actually posted a similar thread a few days ago and got the same answer as you did from one of the techs here
Being stubborn and loving DIY, plus having a lot of friends that are seasoned mechanics I'm currently researching the said subject. I already ordered a filter kit
I'll let you know if I find out more info.
I'm trying to figure out the same thing on my 2002 911TT. I actually posted a similar thread a few days ago and got the same answer as you did from one of the techs here
Being stubborn and loving DIY, plus having a lot of friends that are seasoned mechanics I'm currently researching the said subject. I already ordered a filter kit
I'll let you know if I find out more info.
The Tiptronic unit is also not technically difficult but you do need some special tools. Specifically, Filling adapter 9507/1 and Porsche/VAG fill tool 1924 or similar. Std drain and refill is usually around 5 litres. As much as 9 with filter and left draining for extended period of time. After the inital fill procedure, you have to run the trans through each position for 10secs with either Porsches's PST2 or PIWIS scan tool monitoring trans temp. If you have a Durametric scan tool that could be used also to monitor temps. You should have fluid escape from the bore hole at the top by 40C. If nothing comes out by 30C, additional fluid must be added and then locked down at 40C. That's why we usually recomend you have a dealer or good independant shop do the tip job. If it's too high you'll blow seals out when the fluid gets hot or conversely, not enough fluid and the tranny will slip and not shift properly, particularly when cold. Hope this helps.
#7
I think i replied to your earlier post- regards to the front diff, a std hand pump and little time is all you need to do the job. Should take about 1 1/2 litres 75/90 gear oil Porsche part number 999 917 546 00 You shouldn't have any problem doing that part yourself.
The Tiptronic unit is also not technically difficult but you do need some special tools. Specifically, Filling adapter 9507/1 and Porsche/VAG fill tool 1924 or similar. Std drain and refill is usually around 5 litres. As much as 9 with filter and left draining for extended period of time. After the inital fill procedure, you have to run the trans through each position for 10secs with either Porsches's PST2 or PIWIS scan tool monitoring trans temp. If you have a Durametric scan tool that could be used also to monitor temps. You should have fluid escape from the bore hole at the top by 40C. If nothing comes out by 30C, additional fluid must be added and then locked down at 40C. That's why we usually recomend you have a dealer or good independant shop do the tip job. If it's too high you'll blow seals out when the fluid gets hot or conversely, not enough fluid and the tranny will slip and not shift properly, particularly when cold. Hope this helps.
The Tiptronic unit is also not technically difficult but you do need some special tools. Specifically, Filling adapter 9507/1 and Porsche/VAG fill tool 1924 or similar. Std drain and refill is usually around 5 litres. As much as 9 with filter and left draining for extended period of time. After the inital fill procedure, you have to run the trans through each position for 10secs with either Porsches's PST2 or PIWIS scan tool monitoring trans temp. If you have a Durametric scan tool that could be used also to monitor temps. You should have fluid escape from the bore hole at the top by 40C. If nothing comes out by 30C, additional fluid must be added and then locked down at 40C. That's why we usually recomend you have a dealer or good independant shop do the tip job. If it's too high you'll blow seals out when the fluid gets hot or conversely, not enough fluid and the tranny will slip and not shift properly, particularly when cold. Hope this helps.
I do have the Durametric and will mess with it to see if I can find the said parameters to keep temperatures in check. What do you mean by "If nothing comes out by 30C, additional fluid must be added and then locked down at 40C." I'm not sure what do you mean by locked down.
Thanks
Adam
Trending Topics
#8
What that means is this:
After dumping the fluid and/or replacing the trans filter, there is an initial filling procedure where the fill tool is installed in the bottom of the transmission pan and the top control screw is removed. At this point the transmission would be cold and engine off. Opening the valve on the tool begins the inital fill and it is shut off when a small amt of fluid escapes from the control screw bore. Also at this point the trans temp would be below 30C (typically).
The next step involves starting the car and idling with brake depressed for 10 seconds in each gear selection point and back to park, meanwhile trans temps are being monitored with the scan tool. Once the trans reaches 30C the control port at the top of the trans needs to be monitored. If a small amount begins to come out at 30C, its fine. (Typically none will come out as by running the trans through its gears, fluid will have filled solinoids, filter, torque converter etc so it would be slightly low from your initial fill)
If no, you let the trans temps rise. If no fluid has escaped by 40C, open the valve and fill untill some fluid escapes from the control screw bore. At that point you are done. What i meant by locking it down was just that the fill tool should be removed and control bore screw installed with fresh seal ring. (if fluid begins to escape between 30 and 40C, you can lock it down earlier with no additional fluid needed**)
The control port MUST be closed up no later than 45C at max as the internal fluid is expanding as it heats and rises within the trans.
After dumping the fluid and/or replacing the trans filter, there is an initial filling procedure where the fill tool is installed in the bottom of the transmission pan and the top control screw is removed. At this point the transmission would be cold and engine off. Opening the valve on the tool begins the inital fill and it is shut off when a small amt of fluid escapes from the control screw bore. Also at this point the trans temp would be below 30C (typically).
The next step involves starting the car and idling with brake depressed for 10 seconds in each gear selection point and back to park, meanwhile trans temps are being monitored with the scan tool. Once the trans reaches 30C the control port at the top of the trans needs to be monitored. If a small amount begins to come out at 30C, its fine. (Typically none will come out as by running the trans through its gears, fluid will have filled solinoids, filter, torque converter etc so it would be slightly low from your initial fill)
If no, you let the trans temps rise. If no fluid has escaped by 40C, open the valve and fill untill some fluid escapes from the control screw bore. At that point you are done. What i meant by locking it down was just that the fill tool should be removed and control bore screw installed with fresh seal ring. (if fluid begins to escape between 30 and 40C, you can lock it down earlier with no additional fluid needed**)
The control port MUST be closed up no later than 45C at max as the internal fluid is expanding as it heats and rises within the trans.
#9
What that means is this:
After dumping the fluid and/or replacing the trans filter, there is an initial filling procedure where the fill tool is installed in the bottom of the transmission pan and the top control screw is removed. At this point the transmission would be cold and engine off. Opening the valve on the tool begins the inital fill and it is shut off when a small amt of fluid escapes from the control screw bore. Also at this point the trans temp would be below 30C (typically).
The next step involves starting the car and idling with brake depressed for 10 seconds in each gear selection point and back to park, meanwhile trans temps are being monitored with the scan tool. Once the trans reaches 30C the control port at the top of the trans needs to be monitored. If a small amount begins to come out at 30C, its fine. (Typically none will come out as by running the trans through its gears, fluid will have filled solinoids, filter, torque converter etc so it would be slightly low from your initial fill)
If no, you let the trans temps rise. If no fluid has escaped by 40C, open the valve and fill untill some fluid escapes from the control screw bore. At that point you are done. What i meant by locking it down was just that the fill tool should be removed and control bore screw installed with fresh seal ring. (if fluid begins to escape between 30 and 40C, you can lock it down earlier with no additional fluid needed**)
The control port MUST be closed up no later than 45C at max as the internal fluid is expanding as it heats and rises within the trans.
After dumping the fluid and/or replacing the trans filter, there is an initial filling procedure where the fill tool is installed in the bottom of the transmission pan and the top control screw is removed. At this point the transmission would be cold and engine off. Opening the valve on the tool begins the inital fill and it is shut off when a small amt of fluid escapes from the control screw bore. Also at this point the trans temp would be below 30C (typically).
The next step involves starting the car and idling with brake depressed for 10 seconds in each gear selection point and back to park, meanwhile trans temps are being monitored with the scan tool. Once the trans reaches 30C the control port at the top of the trans needs to be monitored. If a small amount begins to come out at 30C, its fine. (Typically none will come out as by running the trans through its gears, fluid will have filled solinoids, filter, torque converter etc so it would be slightly low from your initial fill)
If no, you let the trans temps rise. If no fluid has escaped by 40C, open the valve and fill untill some fluid escapes from the control screw bore. At that point you are done. What i meant by locking it down was just that the fill tool should be removed and control bore screw installed with fresh seal ring. (if fluid begins to escape between 30 and 40C, you can lock it down earlier with no additional fluid needed**)
The control port MUST be closed up no later than 45C at max as the internal fluid is expanding as it heats and rises within the trans.
Here's a DIY I found:
http://www.renntech.org/forums/index...c+fluid+change
However it seems like it's for the older tips. Mine is a 2002. But it does seem to give a good idea on how to build the fill tool.
Again,
Thanks for all the info.
#10
So if I understand you correctly, there is the drain hole, a fill hole and the control hole right?
Here's a DIY I found:
http://www.renntech.org/forums/index...c+fluid+change
However it seems like it's for the older tips. Mine is a 2002. But it does seem to give a good idea on how to build the fill tool.
Again,
Thanks for all the info.
Here's a DIY I found:
http://www.renntech.org/forums/index...c+fluid+change
However it seems like it's for the older tips. Mine is a 2002. But it does seem to give a good idea on how to build the fill tool.
Again,
Thanks for all the info.
#12
Thats a very good point to make- we usually reccomend a change at 80K, maybe stretch to 90 on the outside but after that there is a chance of some sludging internally. A fresh fluid and filter change has the potential on high milage transmissions for knocking some of the sludgy bits loose where prior were just caked on. Once that starts circulating it can end up in unwanted locations.
#13
Tiptronic service...
My car has 58K miles and I thought a fresh filter and fluid swap would be a good preventative measure... thoughts???
#14
I'm in a same boat, barely past 65k.