I just spent 3 hours replacing 8 O-rings, bleeding pump, lines and rams and finally was able to reassemble fully functional active spoiler.

The whole thing started with "spoiler failure" warning, after that I was looking at micro switches and wiring, until I realized that there was some seepage on the rear lid and behind air cleaner.
I am not sure how common rebuilding these is, but there is not much to it, if one knows what they are doing. I am definitely happy that I do not have to pay $2K for new system, or go with solid spoiler. I do enjoy the looks of my GT2 wing.

In my case one internal part was broken, partially due to my fault, I overloaded pump during testing and it cracked. I would imagine that this plastic cylinder retainer can break in other cases. Naturally no one sells internal spare parts, so I had to fabricate one from old amplifier's aluminum heat sink. Those 27mm cutting bits are also not easy to find, but I got used one for $20 and turned it into fancy drill bit.
Long story short, oil seepage is all you have wrong with yours, it is a matter of new o-rings and some creative bleeding, because design of this system only allows a lifetime fill and has no way for air to escape. If some bubbles get into one of the rams, your wing will go up crooked.

See some fancy pics and my system test video.

So far I tested it about 10 cycles and no warning light, or any signs of leakage.

 

Very nice! Can you share source on the o-rings? Guessing you swapped the bango fitting rings also?

 

No, I re-used those washers, they are copper so no shame, or danger there.
The main source of the leak were two o-rings between cylinder tops and output cover. These two o-rings were rotten into mud. The other 6 rings were hardened , piston rings were like plastic, so they broke as soon as I pulled on them.
I sourced new rings at local truck and trailer supply, where I get parts for my straight trucks. They came as part of large o-ring kit, for general hydraulic maintenance. The whole cost of the rebuild is around $2, plus 3 hours of my time. I suppose with my MBA degree it adds few more bucks, as an opportunity cost and such
Bleeding is really tricky, because Porsche does not want you to do it, so it takes about 3 cycles, until both sides even up and get within 1mm in stroke distance.

 

Ah found the PN for the bango washers: McMaster #97725A150

Could be a great how-to thread if you can share the exact sizing of the o-rings.

 

Orings are 6 pieces of 1" x 1/8", the other 2 are 3/4" x 1/8".
It is not the supplies, it is the routine a bit complicated.
Took me few attempts before I worked out how to bleed both sides evenly.

 

Thanks for the informative post. I too made an aluminum block, cut and filed it until it was within .001" of the original plastic one. I have a friend that was going to mill it for me but came across a spare plastic one. One of these days I'll fix mine. In the mean time I like only the single ducktail on the deck.

 

I'm sure Porsche farmed out the design of this hydraulic ram system. At least I hope they did. What a piece of crap design. You really went through a lot trying to improve it, but in the end it will leak again.

 

Everything leaks again some day, but right now it works and will probably last a while. Original one lasted 13 years.

 

This is great information for half of the problem. Unfortunately, this is only part of the problem.

The o-rings in the rams that lift the spoiler are as bad or worse than the o-ring in the pump. These o-rings can't be replace without destroying the rams.

I have finally found a machine shop locally that understands what is needed to machine the ram cylinders and the proper cylinder wall finish for the o-rings. Unfortunately the owner will be travel for the next 4 weeks, so it will be a while before I have an update.

 

I was wondering what was inside the slave cylinders, but I see no leak in mine.
How bad is it there and how do I take them apart?

 

+ Karma, awesome job and thanks for sharing.

 

It's a pain to take the rams apart. You need to be very careful as there is a very long spring inside the sleeve of the ram. You have to have a way to compress the spring, before you remove the "c" clip. I used a PVC pipe as a guide, so the spring would not fly out and used my drill press to compress the spring and slowly release the pressure.

Here's a link to my past experience.

https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...-assembly.html

I really hate how long it's taken me, but it's waaaaayyy down on the priority list.

Later, Steve

 

Last time I checked at my dealer parts department the cylinders were available as separate parts. Cost per cylinder roughly $300.

 

Ummm...the GT2 wing is fixed...LOL

 

Mine is GT2 like, mounted on hydraulic rams.