Vr6tee's guide to making HP with your 997.1
#1
07-13-2016, 03:26 PM
Vr6tee's guide to making HP with your 997.1
This is "MY" advice on going from anywhere between stock to 2000 HP. These engines can make huge power for their displacement, don't take 20 attempts to get there!
After reading my post, I realize it seems like I am biased towards SRM, but really I've done so much to my car and couldn't have achieved the build
I have without Sean. Modifying this car is not cheap and you need to save money where you can. Sean is the most fair priced guy I've come across in the
Porsche industry and I have nothing to gain by intentionally being biased towards him for products. He really needs to work on his customer service and
to hire a few more employees but..... I have to save where I can and appreciate someone who makes themselves available when you're full of oil in the
middle of your engine and they pick up the phone to offer help.
Here is the knowledge I can share, for whatever it is worth:
Aftermarket tunes
-----------------
- Really, I believe there are 3 good choices.
Stage 1: Cobb. The accessport is really easy to install, has a lot of FREE maps including 100 octaneand E85 support, is one of the least expensive options, has a nice drag strip feature, data logging and MOST OF ALL.... great support!
Don't pay more for a locked down software with less maps and bad support. Mitch from Cobb directly is amazing. For an after market tune, Dzenno is very good. I've used him a few times and have always been happy. He's very knowledgeable and makes your car run as strong as it can for your exact location and mods. RobTuned has also proven himself on the accessport. With all these options, why would you look anywhere else? If you have less than 1000 HP, this is your solution. Save yourself time and headaches and just buy it.
Stage 2: ProEFI. This is a fairly advanced aftermarket engine management. It will take you to the next level after Cobb. Unfortunately, it comes with a few hiccups.
You're going to have annoying dash warning lights! It's "somewhat" limited in the features compared to Syvecs and offers very limited support. It's 1/2 the cost of Syvecs
but you do get what you pay for. If you have to make a few sacrifices cost wise in your build, I believe it's a great solution.
Stage 3: Syvecs. IMO, the best, by miles. Nothing else compares. Ryan is a master and will tune your car to run and perform better than you
can imagine. It automatically datalogs everything you do. has incredibly software to configure and view anything you can dream of. I connect to
my car wirelessly from inside my house to program the ECU, or download a datalog. The downside.... it's expensive and there are only 2 or 3 guys in the world
that can set it up and tune it for you.
MAF
----
- Lose it. Going to speed density makes tuning easier and frees up space in your engine bay.
Inlet pipes
-----------
- Don't need these once you ditch the MAF. If you have them, sell them and make a couple $.
Exhaust
-------
- Which brand you pick isn't a huge factor. Size and material matter more. 2.5" will be good enough for 800 HP.
Above that, pick a 3" exhaust for up to 1200 HP. Above that, go up to 3.5". Get rid of the cats if your emissions allow.
The materials all sound different and cost a different amount, so listen to a bunch of clips and your plan out your budget to decide what you want.
Turbos
------
- I BELIEVE...... Don't waste your time with "upgraded VTGs". The stock ones can make 900 HP with the right supporting parts/fuel.
Why spend $5000 USD to gain very little? Look at Garrett, XR, EFR or PTE and pick the smallest turbo you can for the HP you want to achieve. This will give you the most driveable car and easiest fitment. The EFR 7163 are a bolt on turbo and will take you to 1200 hp for a really good prIce! A pretty close rule of thumb is going to be that you will get 1 HP per 1 lb/min of air flow, so a 70 lb/min turbo will make 700 HP. We have 2, so that's 1400 HP. Take oil and water line mods into consideration. A water cooled center section allows you to keep the existing water lines while PTE doesn't use them. Plan this out in your decision.
Fuel System (minus injectors)
-----------
- The stock fuel system will take you to 1000 HP on gas, and 800 HP on Ethanol. For 1000-1200 HP, grab a 2 pump Walbro setup. SRM makes one, or with some patience you can modify your stock basket yourself. You can check my Switzer E911 thread to see how I did it. If you go over 1200 HP on pump gas OR 1000 HP on E85, I'd go to a brushless setup. AMS makes one, and SRM makes one. The SRM one is Porsche specific and is less money. 1 pump is good for 1000 WHP on E85 and the 2 pump setup is good for what ever you can throw at it.
After reading my post, I realize it seems like I am biased towards SRM, but really I've done so much to my car and couldn't have achieved the build
I have without Sean. Modifying this car is not cheap and you need to save money where you can. Sean is the most fair priced guy I've come across in the
Porsche industry and I have nothing to gain by intentionally being biased towards him for products. He really needs to work on his customer service and
to hire a few more employees but..... I have to save where I can and appreciate someone who makes themselves available when you're full of oil in the
middle of your engine and they pick up the phone to offer help.
Here is the knowledge I can share, for whatever it is worth:
Aftermarket tunes
-----------------
- Really, I believe there are 3 good choices.
Stage 1: Cobb. The accessport is really easy to install, has a lot of FREE maps including 100 octaneand E85 support, is one of the least expensive options, has a nice drag strip feature, data logging and MOST OF ALL.... great support!
Don't pay more for a locked down software with less maps and bad support. Mitch from Cobb directly is amazing. For an after market tune, Dzenno is very good. I've used him a few times and have always been happy. He's very knowledgeable and makes your car run as strong as it can for your exact location and mods. RobTuned has also proven himself on the accessport. With all these options, why would you look anywhere else? If you have less than 1000 HP, this is your solution. Save yourself time and headaches and just buy it.
Stage 2: ProEFI. This is a fairly advanced aftermarket engine management. It will take you to the next level after Cobb. Unfortunately, it comes with a few hiccups.
You're going to have annoying dash warning lights! It's "somewhat" limited in the features compared to Syvecs and offers very limited support. It's 1/2 the cost of Syvecs
but you do get what you pay for. If you have to make a few sacrifices cost wise in your build, I believe it's a great solution.
Stage 3: Syvecs. IMO, the best, by miles. Nothing else compares. Ryan is a master and will tune your car to run and perform better than you
can imagine. It automatically datalogs everything you do. has incredibly software to configure and view anything you can dream of. I connect to
my car wirelessly from inside my house to program the ECU, or download a datalog. The downside.... it's expensive and there are only 2 or 3 guys in the world
that can set it up and tune it for you.
MAF
----
- Lose it. Going to speed density makes tuning easier and frees up space in your engine bay.
Inlet pipes
-----------
- Don't need these once you ditch the MAF. If you have them, sell them and make a couple $.
Exhaust
-------
- Which brand you pick isn't a huge factor. Size and material matter more. 2.5" will be good enough for 800 HP.
Above that, pick a 3" exhaust for up to 1200 HP. Above that, go up to 3.5". Get rid of the cats if your emissions allow.
The materials all sound different and cost a different amount, so listen to a bunch of clips and your plan out your budget to decide what you want.
Turbos
------
- I BELIEVE...... Don't waste your time with "upgraded VTGs". The stock ones can make 900 HP with the right supporting parts/fuel.
Why spend $5000 USD to gain very little? Look at Garrett, XR, EFR or PTE and pick the smallest turbo you can for the HP you want to achieve. This will give you the most driveable car and easiest fitment. The EFR 7163 are a bolt on turbo and will take you to 1200 hp for a really good prIce! A pretty close rule of thumb is going to be that you will get 1 HP per 1 lb/min of air flow, so a 70 lb/min turbo will make 700 HP. We have 2, so that's 1400 HP. Take oil and water line mods into consideration. A water cooled center section allows you to keep the existing water lines while PTE doesn't use them. Plan this out in your decision.
Fuel System (minus injectors)
-----------
- The stock fuel system will take you to 1000 HP on gas, and 800 HP on Ethanol. For 1000-1200 HP, grab a 2 pump Walbro setup. SRM makes one, or with some patience you can modify your stock basket yourself. You can check my Switzer E911 thread to see how I did it. If you go over 1200 HP on pump gas OR 1000 HP on E85, I'd go to a brushless setup. AMS makes one, and SRM makes one. The SRM one is Porsche specific and is less money. 1 pump is good for 1000 WHP on E85 and the 2 pump setup is good for what ever you can throw at it.
Last edited by vr6tee; 07-13-2016 at 08:02 PM.
#2
07-13-2016, 03:29 PM
Clutch
------
- I feel *** VERY STRONGLY *** about this. Not following this suggestion will most likely make you not want to drive your car and consider selling it. For 99% of us there are only 2 clutch choices. For 800 HP and less, get a Sachs 764 and the GT2 slave of your choice.
Now, prepare to have your minds blown! For over 800 HP, buy a Protomotive twin disc. Todd takes a 764 pressure plate and LWFW and modifies it into the best clutch you've ever used. Combine this with a GT2 slave and you have a car that drives better than stock.
DO NOT spend your money on an ERP/RPS clutch. If you do buy this clutch, you must agree to never come back to this forum to complain about it from this day forward. The RSS clutch stop is not a solution for a ****ty clutch. It still sucks, just for less movement.
For the 1% out there that is over 1500 WHP, you'll most likely have to look at a Tilton triple but at this level of car you'll have done a lot of your own research.
Intercoolers
------------
- ANYTHING is better than stock 997.1 intercoolers! The stock intercoolers are brutal. AWE, GT2, 911Tuning, ETS and any others will all be an upgrade.
My suggestion is to grab a set of SRM 4.5" intercoolers. SRMs price is as low as everyone elses, are 4.5" instead of 3.5" like most others and are beautiful pieces. I do believe the flag ship coolers are made by AMS but cost twice the money and with the Y-pipe you might not want, so I think most people will shy away from them. If you have the money, just buy the AMS now!
Injectors
---------
Gas E85
--- ----
up to 800HP - stock < 650HP stock
800-1000 1000cc 800-1000 1300cc
1000-1200 1300cc 1000-1200 1700cc
1200-1500 1700cc 1200-1500 2000cc
------- 1500+ 12 injectors --------
Plenum/Tbody
------------
- As far as your intake tract, I'm always a bigger is better guy. grab an 82mm combo. IPD makes a new plenum, and SRM makes one. Agency power also makes one but stay away from anything they make. The IPD plenum is cast, and SRM is billet. Now, here's my 2 cents. "I believe" that the IPD y design will force more air to the rear cylinders and cause a lean situation compared to cyl 1 and 4. Porsche didn't design it this way and I believe it's for a reason. SRM keeps their large plenum to the stock Tee design and I believe it is a much better design. It also has threaded fittings so you can change to anything
you want. I used all AN fittings on mine. pair it to a GT3 Throttle body.
Intake Manifold
---------------
The stock intake flows very well! I'm not very experienced with the different 997 intake manifolds but can tell you that at close to 1500 HP my stock "ported" intake is doing really well. I hand ported the intakes myself, they are plastic which makes it a bit harder, but it turned out great. It has a great torque curve and makes power to 8100 RPM. Something I had been told right up to my dyno is that the stock intake CANNOT make power over 6200 RPM. I guess that theory is out the window. I've heard that the GT3 intakes take a HUGE loss of torque in the mid range to gain power on top.
I preferred to not lose 300 ft lbs of torque throughout my curve to gain 50 WHP.
ES Motor has an intake that looks very nice. It also looks really well designed.
The plenum design appears to have resolved the issue I believe IPD has with theirs. If you have the extra money I would expect very good results from it.
Y-pipe
------
- I believe which one you buy doesn't matter too much. Get something from a vendor you like, just make sure you grab something that is 2.5" that goes up to 3.25" into the throttle body and something that is preferably not cast. It's always nice to be able to weld to a material properly. I like blow off valves mounted to the y pipe. They look cool and let the air vent right before the throttle body.
Custom Pieces
-------------
- SRM makes all their own pieces. Give them a shout and see if they've made or can make what you're looking for. Todd from Protomotive has also made a bunch of custom pieces and actually supplies a lot, if not most of the adapters to every other vendor out there.
Engine machining
----------------
- IMO, there are 2 guys in the industry have proven their knowledge in building killer Porsche engines. John Bray, and Todd Knighton. I have a lot of respect for both of these guys. Both of these guys will build you a killer, reliable engine. Unfortunately, John's engine kits are not cheap and Todd is very busy. He's typically a few months out from starting any new project for you. If you are not able to do the assembly yourself, I'd call John or Todd and see what their timelines are like. I believe a bit of a wait is worth every dollar saved.
Cams
----
- Be warned! Changing cams is not a small job on these engines and requires the use of proper tools and knowledge to time the engine.
Be careful and check 5 times before closing the engine back up. Talk to someone who knows how to do it properly!
For new cams, there are a few choices:
1) SRM is having cams reground in the USA. I believe there is a few week turn around on them and they're cut similar to the Schrick cams for our engines. The price is the lowest I've seen.
2) FVD has cams made by Schrick. (new, not regrinds). The profiles look really good on paper. I'm sure they'd be a really good upgrade to stock.
3) EvoMS offers a few stages of cams. I am running the stage 2 cams. They are actually regrinds done in Germany. They have a great torque range and rev out incredible. I love these cams. The issue? They are almost
twice as expensive as the other 2 options and everyone I know has waited between 4-6 months for them to arrive. Plan your timeline and budget out and decide what cams are best for you.
Modification parts
------------------
- I'm a firm believer of not over spending. I love power and I like to go fast, but I don't want to get hosed on every part along the way. I believe to always check and see if what you're looking for exists for the North American muscle car scene. If it does, buy it there! You'd be suprised how fast some hoses, fittings etc. can add up. Go to Jegs/Summit where ever you can to save some money. When it's Porsche specific and you don't have a choice, call SRM first! What I love about Sean is that he's into running a business and making a fair profit.
I don't think auto parts should have a 400% mark up in them. I don't want to pay $4000 for piston liners when I can get them for 1/3 the price. Sam at by design is another good guy to talk to. Although he doesn't manufacture anything himself, he deals with basically every other vendor. He can probably source the part for you at a fair price.
------
- I feel *** VERY STRONGLY *** about this. Not following this suggestion will most likely make you not want to drive your car and consider selling it. For 99% of us there are only 2 clutch choices. For 800 HP and less, get a Sachs 764 and the GT2 slave of your choice.
Now, prepare to have your minds blown! For over 800 HP, buy a Protomotive twin disc. Todd takes a 764 pressure plate and LWFW and modifies it into the best clutch you've ever used. Combine this with a GT2 slave and you have a car that drives better than stock.
DO NOT spend your money on an ERP/RPS clutch. If you do buy this clutch, you must agree to never come back to this forum to complain about it from this day forward. The RSS clutch stop is not a solution for a ****ty clutch. It still sucks, just for less movement.
For the 1% out there that is over 1500 WHP, you'll most likely have to look at a Tilton triple but at this level of car you'll have done a lot of your own research.
Intercoolers
------------
- ANYTHING is better than stock 997.1 intercoolers! The stock intercoolers are brutal. AWE, GT2, 911Tuning, ETS and any others will all be an upgrade.
My suggestion is to grab a set of SRM 4.5" intercoolers. SRMs price is as low as everyone elses, are 4.5" instead of 3.5" like most others and are beautiful pieces. I do believe the flag ship coolers are made by AMS but cost twice the money and with the Y-pipe you might not want, so I think most people will shy away from them. If you have the money, just buy the AMS now!
Injectors
---------
Gas E85
--- ----
up to 800HP - stock < 650HP stock
800-1000 1000cc 800-1000 1300cc
1000-1200 1300cc 1000-1200 1700cc
1200-1500 1700cc 1200-1500 2000cc
------- 1500+ 12 injectors --------
Plenum/Tbody
------------
- As far as your intake tract, I'm always a bigger is better guy. grab an 82mm combo. IPD makes a new plenum, and SRM makes one. Agency power also makes one but stay away from anything they make. The IPD plenum is cast, and SRM is billet. Now, here's my 2 cents. "I believe" that the IPD y design will force more air to the rear cylinders and cause a lean situation compared to cyl 1 and 4. Porsche didn't design it this way and I believe it's for a reason. SRM keeps their large plenum to the stock Tee design and I believe it is a much better design. It also has threaded fittings so you can change to anything
you want. I used all AN fittings on mine. pair it to a GT3 Throttle body.
Intake Manifold
---------------
The stock intake flows very well! I'm not very experienced with the different 997 intake manifolds but can tell you that at close to 1500 HP my stock "ported" intake is doing really well. I hand ported the intakes myself, they are plastic which makes it a bit harder, but it turned out great. It has a great torque curve and makes power to 8100 RPM. Something I had been told right up to my dyno is that the stock intake CANNOT make power over 6200 RPM. I guess that theory is out the window. I've heard that the GT3 intakes take a HUGE loss of torque in the mid range to gain power on top.
I preferred to not lose 300 ft lbs of torque throughout my curve to gain 50 WHP.
ES Motor has an intake that looks very nice. It also looks really well designed.
The plenum design appears to have resolved the issue I believe IPD has with theirs. If you have the extra money I would expect very good results from it.
Y-pipe
------
- I believe which one you buy doesn't matter too much. Get something from a vendor you like, just make sure you grab something that is 2.5" that goes up to 3.25" into the throttle body and something that is preferably not cast. It's always nice to be able to weld to a material properly. I like blow off valves mounted to the y pipe. They look cool and let the air vent right before the throttle body.
Custom Pieces
-------------
- SRM makes all their own pieces. Give them a shout and see if they've made or can make what you're looking for. Todd from Protomotive has also made a bunch of custom pieces and actually supplies a lot, if not most of the adapters to every other vendor out there.
Engine machining
----------------
- IMO, there are 2 guys in the industry have proven their knowledge in building killer Porsche engines. John Bray, and Todd Knighton. I have a lot of respect for both of these guys. Both of these guys will build you a killer, reliable engine. Unfortunately, John's engine kits are not cheap and Todd is very busy. He's typically a few months out from starting any new project for you. If you are not able to do the assembly yourself, I'd call John or Todd and see what their timelines are like. I believe a bit of a wait is worth every dollar saved.
Cams
----
- Be warned! Changing cams is not a small job on these engines and requires the use of proper tools and knowledge to time the engine.
Be careful and check 5 times before closing the engine back up. Talk to someone who knows how to do it properly!
For new cams, there are a few choices:
1) SRM is having cams reground in the USA. I believe there is a few week turn around on them and they're cut similar to the Schrick cams for our engines. The price is the lowest I've seen.
2) FVD has cams made by Schrick. (new, not regrinds). The profiles look really good on paper. I'm sure they'd be a really good upgrade to stock.
3) EvoMS offers a few stages of cams. I am running the stage 2 cams. They are actually regrinds done in Germany. They have a great torque range and rev out incredible. I love these cams. The issue? They are almost
twice as expensive as the other 2 options and everyone I know has waited between 4-6 months for them to arrive. Plan your timeline and budget out and decide what cams are best for you.
Modification parts
------------------
- I'm a firm believer of not over spending. I love power and I like to go fast, but I don't want to get hosed on every part along the way. I believe to always check and see if what you're looking for exists for the North American muscle car scene. If it does, buy it there! You'd be suprised how fast some hoses, fittings etc. can add up. Go to Jegs/Summit where ever you can to save some money. When it's Porsche specific and you don't have a choice, call SRM first! What I love about Sean is that he's into running a business and making a fair profit.
I don't think auto parts should have a 400% mark up in them. I don't want to pay $4000 for piston liners when I can get them for 1/3 the price. Sam at by design is another good guy to talk to. Although he doesn't manufacture anything himself, he deals with basically every other vendor. He can probably source the part for you at a fair price.
Last edited by vr6tee; 07-29-2016 at 07:09 AM.
#3
07-13-2016, 04:12 PM
nice writeup!! i would like to add a few things i found along the way.
1.proefi. unless the 997 is different there are no lights on my dash at all. use the 128 over the 112. its a better unit
2. turbos. you missed the best aftermarket BOLT ON turbo there is. the b/w 7163. spools like a monster and makes 1200 hp. pricewise its as good as any turbo out there and you dont need aftermarket w/g or bov. its all contained in the turbo.
3. fueling. i dont think ams makes the brushless anymore. the srm unit is tested and works great.
4. i/c the ams coolers are 5" and 5000$ with some fancy ductwork . for that price you can buy 2 sets of srm 4.5" i/c a y pipe and lunch.
5.plenum. again go bigger . the srm has a billet plenum with a 82 mm t/b. awesome price
6. engine machining. sean works very closely with john bray and has 3 cnc machines for engine machining. if john or todd cant fit you in sean has built 4 1000 hp engines in both 996 and 997. he has all the tools needed and great attention to detail.
much like you im a huge fan of sean . i have been to the shop a few times and he built my motor. while we havent always seen eye to eye he is always willing to listen and for me he has always made time for me in either a fone call or when i was at the shop. his business model is unlike any other when it comes to porsches. make high quality parts at a resonable price .
as a diy build i dont think theres another out there that comes close to the power you made and at a cost that didnt cripple you. congrats again!
1.proefi. unless the 997 is different there are no lights on my dash at all. use the 128 over the 112. its a better unit
2. turbos. you missed the best aftermarket BOLT ON turbo there is. the b/w 7163. spools like a monster and makes 1200 hp. pricewise its as good as any turbo out there and you dont need aftermarket w/g or bov. its all contained in the turbo.
3. fueling. i dont think ams makes the brushless anymore. the srm unit is tested and works great.
4. i/c the ams coolers are 5" and 5000$ with some fancy ductwork . for that price you can buy 2 sets of srm 4.5" i/c a y pipe and lunch.
5.plenum. again go bigger . the srm has a billet plenum with a 82 mm t/b. awesome price
6. engine machining. sean works very closely with john bray and has 3 cnc machines for engine machining. if john or todd cant fit you in sean has built 4 1000 hp engines in both 996 and 997. he has all the tools needed and great attention to detail.
much like you im a huge fan of sean . i have been to the shop a few times and he built my motor. while we havent always seen eye to eye he is always willing to listen and for me he has always made time for me in either a fone call or when i was at the shop. his business model is unlike any other when it comes to porsches. make high quality parts at a resonable price .
as a diy build i dont think theres another out there that comes close to the power you made and at a cost that didnt cripple you. congrats again!
#5
07-13-2016, 08:06 PM
nice writeup!! i would like to add a few things i found along the way.
1.proefi. unless the 997 is different there are no lights on my dash at all. use the 128 over the 112. its a better unit
2. turbos. you missed the best aftermarket BOLT ON turbo there is. the b/w 7163. spools like a monster and makes 1200 hp. pricewise its as good as any turbo out there and you dont need aftermarket w/g or bov. its all contained in the turbo.
3. fueling. i dont think ams makes the brushless anymore. the srm unit is tested and works great.
4. i/c the ams coolers are 5" and 5000$ with some fancy ductwork . for that price you can buy 2 sets of srm 4.5" i/c a y pipe and lunch.
5.plenum. again go bigger . the srm has a billet plenum with a 82 mm t/b. awesome price
6. engine machining. sean works very closely with john bray and has 3 cnc machines for engine machining. if john or todd cant fit you in sean has built 4 1000 hp engines in both 996 and 997. he has all the tools needed and great attention to detail.
much like you im a huge fan of sean . i have been to the shop a few times and he built my motor. while we havent always seen eye to eye he is always willing to listen and for me he has always made time for me in either a fone call or when i was at the shop. his business model is unlike any other when it comes to porsches. make high quality parts at a resonable price .
as a diy build i dont think theres another out there that comes close to the power you made and at a cost that didnt cripple you. congrats again!
1.proefi. unless the 997 is different there are no lights on my dash at all. use the 128 over the 112. its a better unit
2. turbos. you missed the best aftermarket BOLT ON turbo there is. the b/w 7163. spools like a monster and makes 1200 hp. pricewise its as good as any turbo out there and you dont need aftermarket w/g or bov. its all contained in the turbo.
3. fueling. i dont think ams makes the brushless anymore. the srm unit is tested and works great.
4. i/c the ams coolers are 5" and 5000$ with some fancy ductwork . for that price you can buy 2 sets of srm 4.5" i/c a y pipe and lunch.
5.plenum. again go bigger . the srm has a billet plenum with a 82 mm t/b. awesome price
6. engine machining. sean works very closely with john bray and has 3 cnc machines for engine machining. if john or todd cant fit you in sean has built 4 1000 hp engines in both 996 and 997. he has all the tools needed and great attention to detail.
much like you im a huge fan of sean . i have been to the shop a few times and he built my motor. while we havent always seen eye to eye he is always willing to listen and for me he has always made time for me in either a fone call or when i was at the shop. his business model is unlike any other when it comes to porsches. make high quality parts at a resonable price .
as a diy build i dont think theres another out there that comes close to the power you made and at a cost that didnt cripple you. congrats again!
#6
07-13-2016, 08:42 PM
VR6TEE,
You are an asset to this forum and community with your integrity and unbiased opinion that will pave the way to a better and smarter DIY builds.
I'm positive that every member that will read this will gain some knowledge that will benefit him down the road.
Keep It up!
You are an asset to this forum and community with your integrity and unbiased opinion that will pave the way to a better and smarter DIY builds.
I'm positive that every member that will read this will gain some knowledge that will benefit him down the road.
Keep It up!
#7
07-14-2016, 01:24 AM
Great write up and info! What turbos do you have on your car again (to lazy to dig through your build thread)
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#8
07-14-2016, 02:27 AM
Great write up!
Protomotive works in that way for many years in despite we don't speak about him for a while.
I run his twin clutch and I confirm it is extra smooth (I went from the Sachs 764).
My Protomotive built includes cams reground in the USA as well and a big fueling kit including pumps with Teflon+SS lines, as well 5,5' Ics, big Ypipe, etc...
The lonely lacks regarding your list are the ECU (mine is stock) and stock plenum, but I can say the car runs really strong and flawless, absolutely no regret with the VTGs even upgraded! (I ran 66mm ones a few years before the built)
Btw: can't wait to see your 60-130 and more times!
Protomotive works in that way for many years in despite we don't speak about him for a while.
I run his twin clutch and I confirm it is extra smooth (I went from the Sachs 764).
My Protomotive built includes cams reground in the USA as well and a big fueling kit including pumps with Teflon+SS lines, as well 5,5' Ics, big Ypipe, etc...
The lonely lacks regarding your list are the ECU (mine is stock) and stock plenum, but I can say the car runs really strong and flawless, absolutely no regret with the VTGs even upgraded! (I ran 66mm ones a few years before the built)
Btw: can't wait to see your 60-130 and more times!
#11
07-14-2016, 06:44 AM
Invaluable knowledge OP!! This will save lots of us, a lot of headaches. Rep points for you! I am going to dig more into the 7163s and how direct of a bolt on they are for our 997s.
