Secondary air injection pumps
#1
Secondary air injection pumps
Anyone know if the secondary air injection pump on pass side is same as the pump on the driver side?
I took out the driver and looked at pass, and think they are same, but wanted to see if anyone knows for sure.
Took apart the bank 2 (driver) and the fans were destroyed. Need another one for sure.
I took out the driver and looked at pass, and think they are same, but wanted to see if anyone knows for sure.
Took apart the bank 2 (driver) and the fans were destroyed. Need another one for sure.
#2
The 2 pumps are different.
For cylinders 1-4, part number is 955 605 104 21.
For cylinders 5-8, part number is 955 605 105 11.
Check the associated downstream valve that each air pump feeds.
They fail open and exhaust air goes up the pipe to the air pump and destroys the blades. Recommend you change the valves whilst your there.
Valve part number for both sides is 948 113 203 51. This is applicable for a 955 turbo.
For cylinders 1-4, part number is 955 605 104 21.
For cylinders 5-8, part number is 955 605 105 11.
Check the associated downstream valve that each air pump feeds.
They fail open and exhaust air goes up the pipe to the air pump and destroys the blades. Recommend you change the valves whilst your there.
Valve part number for both sides is 948 113 203 51. This is applicable for a 955 turbo.
#3
The real culprit here is the foam that the air pumps use to filter the incoming air. With age the Foam gets dry-rott and disintegrates into the fan blades packing them full. They tend to not live long after that. Otherwise its a fairly robust motor that gets used infrequently by the ecm. You should be able to disconnect the rubber pipe at the air pump and use your mouth to blow into the valve. Its a one way check valve that should let you blow air in but not suck it back out. You can remove those valves and clean them out, they aren't cheap.
#4
Good help... I was going to ask about them. Saw prices and new replacement is about $120-160 each.
Will def try to remove and clean
BTW, have you tried removing it? Anything special to do that?
Thanks.
Will def try to remove and clean
BTW, have you tried removing it? Anything special to do that?
Thanks.
The real culprit here is the foam that the air pumps use to filter the incoming air. With age the Foam gets dry-rott and disintegrates into the fan blades packing them full. They tend to not live long after that. Otherwise its a fairly robust motor that gets used infrequently by the ecm. You should be able to disconnect the rubber pipe at the air pump and use your mouth to blow into the valve. Its a one way check valve that should let you blow air in but not suck it back out. You can remove those valves and clean them out, they aren't cheap.
#6
Well, I guess I will find out.
Ordered a new secondary air pump and will take a peek at the valve before install.
Maybe, if I really feel like it, I will take some pics to make a decent DIY for this.
We'll see.
Ordered a new secondary air pump and will take a peek at the valve before install.
Maybe, if I really feel like it, I will take some pics to make a decent DIY for this.
We'll see.
#7
What would be great is if you could find the actuating pressure on the new one so as to compare the value against what used valves require. I blew into mine with my mouth and it took quite a bit of pressure to make them open. It's hard to imagine the air pumps deliver that much pressure...maybe my valves are tired?
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#8
All of your other DIYs have been way more than "decent." No doubt this one will be equally superb!
#9
How did you clean the valves out?
I ser a lot of carbon residue on outer part of valve. I blew out the pipe and sure enough, there was old foam material that was in it that came out.
Can you spray with carb cleaner to clean?
Also, wha t about the foam. I am inclined to install without any foam.
Your thoughts?
Thanks.
I ser a lot of carbon residue on outer part of valve. I blew out the pipe and sure enough, there was old foam material that was in it that came out.
Can you spray with carb cleaner to clean?
Also, wha t about the foam. I am inclined to install without any foam.
Your thoughts?
Thanks.
#10
just to wrap this thread up, I did the replace of the pumps, and the cleaning of the hose and valve. Created a DIY thread, so find it on this forum if you need to do this job with additional info. Good luck.
#11
OK. I was driving today and the CEL came back on again. My first thought? CHIT!!!
What could it be?
Came home, pulled out the laptop with Durametric. Code? P0492.
Same secondary air injection pump - bank 2 (driver side).
I replaced the pump (with OEM brand new one).
Removed the valve and the hose. Blew out any debris in it and cleaned out the valve (it is a manual valve with one piece lifting up to allow air through, once enough force has built up).
So with the new pump, cleaned out valve and hose, I should not have any more issues.
However, the CEL returned for same bank, so there must be something going on.
Disconnected hose and connected again, as well as disconnected wire plug, cleaned with electrical contact cleaner, blew out to dry and reconnected. Will see if helps but I doubt it.
Could it be a fuse? Is there a fuse for injection pumps?
Any ideas on testing to isolate for issue? What can be done with Durametric to help here?
Appreciate any input here.
What could it be?
Came home, pulled out the laptop with Durametric. Code? P0492.
Same secondary air injection pump - bank 2 (driver side).
I replaced the pump (with OEM brand new one).
Removed the valve and the hose. Blew out any debris in it and cleaned out the valve (it is a manual valve with one piece lifting up to allow air through, once enough force has built up).
So with the new pump, cleaned out valve and hose, I should not have any more issues.
However, the CEL returned for same bank, so there must be something going on.
Disconnected hose and connected again, as well as disconnected wire plug, cleaned with electrical contact cleaner, blew out to dry and reconnected. Will see if helps but I doubt it.
Could it be a fuse? Is there a fuse for injection pumps?
Any ideas on testing to isolate for issue? What can be done with Durametric to help here?
Appreciate any input here.
Last edited by ciaka; 05-14-2014 at 09:38 PM.
#12
The attached file is the diagnosis procedure from the factory DME manual which includes electrical values to test for. Only steps for Bank 1 are in the manual; steps for Bank 2 are the same. Hope this helps.
Last edited by spooltime; 09-24-2018 at 01:01 PM.
#13
Think I got it figured out.
Located fuse in manual for secondary air pumps.
They are located in engine compartment (next to brake fluid reservoir).
Open the lid, and look for:
Fuse 3 - sec. air pump bank 1 (pass side)
Fuse 4 - sec. air pump bank 2 (driver side)
Mine was bank 2 (driver). Pulled out and seemed OK until I looked very closely and observed black residue on inside of plastic cover.
Checked with ohmmeter and confirmed lack of continuity. Fuse blown.
Checked fuse 3 and confirmed it is OK with Ohmmeter (near zero resistance).
So now I will have to hunt down a 40A fuse for this sucker to confirm the final fix.
Moral of the story - check your fuse too.
Located fuse in manual for secondary air pumps.
They are located in engine compartment (next to brake fluid reservoir).
Open the lid, and look for:
Fuse 3 - sec. air pump bank 1 (pass side)
Fuse 4 - sec. air pump bank 2 (driver side)
Mine was bank 2 (driver). Pulled out and seemed OK until I looked very closely and observed black residue on inside of plastic cover.
Checked with ohmmeter and confirmed lack of continuity. Fuse blown.
Checked fuse 3 and confirmed it is OK with Ohmmeter (near zero resistance).
So now I will have to hunt down a 40A fuse for this sucker to confirm the final fix.
Moral of the story - check your fuse too.
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