I may have missed it, but how much is he asking for the first one?


I would definitely try to find out why he isn't disclosing the front damage, that's really odd to tell about one damaged area and not the other... Maybe it was rearended and then pushed into another car, but still shouldn't say its only rear damage.

 

1st - 2005 w/ 106k for $16,500
2nd - 2004 w/ 122k for $19,000

We talked about the front end when I went and talked to him before I'd driven it the first time, talking about the "silver" package where the front grills and all the window trim is silver, yet he failed to mention the front being replaced at all. I looked closely at the pics, and while the rearview pic is showing damage to the bumper, tailgate and mufflers, the front doesn't appear to have sustained any damage. Both pics show the passenger side corner of the rear bumper as it's sitting on the ground, so I know it's one in the same.

 

Rule #1.
Do not buy a vehicle that has been damaged. It has been compromised.

 

I don't know what your shops, rates, etc are like in AU, but I disagree, otherwise I wouldn't be taking it home tonight to give it a buyers inspection tomorrow. Considering what shops charge at $135 average shop rate, insist on buying parts from the stealerships at full retail prices, etc it takes nothing nowadays to give a vehicle a salvage title, especially one that used to cost $90k MSRP and is worth 1/5th that currently. Damage to some plastic bumpers is hardly going to stop a vehicle from being completely roadworthy. I'll know and post full details tomorrow as to if this one will work of if my search will continue.

 

Went and picked up the 2005 CTT tonight so I can do the buyers inspection tomorrow. Things I've found so far:

- Trunk release button on the trunk itself doesn't work, nor from the key. Window will open if I hold the remote button for a free seconds as it's designed. The trunk will open via the button on the door. The only way I can get the trunk to open from the rear button is to hold the unlock button on the remote, the yellow blinkers will flash, then suddenly the trunk button works.
- Drivers window is one touch up and down, but not the others? C'mon, Porsche.
- With the windows down, I tried holding the lock button and the windows didn't go up. I expected this to be a German thing as it rolls them up (and down after I turned on European options) and down from the key fob.
- With the windows down, I tried rolling the windows up via the key being turned in the drivers door...I can't seem to get them to open or close.
- I still don't understand the suspension on these. I can lower it one click, it's fine. I lower it another click, it goes down lower, yet the red light near the switch continues flashing red. It did this on both CTT's I drove.
- It defaults to Comfort and the middle ride height. I'm guessing the Durametric can get it to lower, but will it allow me to change the default to Sport and as low as possible?
- I still haven't figured out a solution to the navigation amp giving a failure, so the radio, cd player, etc don't work.

I'm leaving work now, so finally heading home to start picking her apart more

 

Im not sure on the trunk issue. Is the trunk supposed to go up automatically? Mine has never done that if so. I have to press the button under the handle to open it. If I don't press the trunk button on the key, then pressing the button on the handle won't allow me to open it.


As far as the windows go, I know both of my front windows are one touch up and down. Im not sure on the rears, I know that they do not go all of the way down due to the shape of the door/wheel well, but I haven't really rolled them down very many times to be honest so I don't remember if they were one touch.


The key does nothing to my windows, it won't roll them up or down. Not like my M3 was, where holding lock would close the open windows, and key in would open all of the windows. I assumed it wasn't designed the same way from what I've read.


The light for loading/lowest level on the suspension is always red. I think for special terrain/highest it is the same. It flashes while it is lowering to that level and becomes solid once it reaches it and should give a notification on the LCD in the cluster when it reaches the set level also. Once you go above 3 mph, it raises to the default (middle) setting. Not sure if you can change which setting is default, I just always leave mine in lowest driveable setting which is the step above loading.


If yours is defaulting to comfort, I would assume the default settings can be changed as far as the suspension goes, mine defaults to normal.


Durametric can lower the car all around, so that in each suspension setting is lower. I lowered mine 30mm all around, raised it back to stock because it rode terribly, and now its lowered 20mm all around and ride is only barely worse than stock.


Price wise, I feel like its a bit high. If I were in the market for it, given the title issues and other little things (which will add up fast) I would want to be under 14k, probably in the 12k range to be comfortable with it. Modifications add nothing to the selling value of the car IMO.


http://www.porsche.com/all/media/pdf...yenne_PCNA.pdf


There is a copy of the owners manual in case the car doesn't come with it. I found another link which was 2005 model specific but its on my home computer and Im not home right now. I would go thru that and compare the functions that are possible with what you're expecting and make sure everything is working.


Good luck!
Chris

 

It just seems overly redundant on the trunk. I have to hold the trunk button until the marker lights flash, then the release button works. Then to open the window I have to hold the button longer. Seems they could ditch a step and let the trunk open so long as the vehicle is unlocked, then any long hold of the button releases the window, end of story.

You're correct, both front windows are one touch up and down, I just don't see why the rears aren't as well. In the X5 everything is one touch from the windows to the sunroof, the Harley I added in an aftermarket remote start alarm and it in turn made all the windows one touch as well since Ford only made the drivers window one touch #FirstWorldProblems ;-)

I stand corrected slighty. The key, turned in the door handle will in fact roll the windows up and down. It clearly hadn't been used in a while because it took wiggling and going in each direction before it started working as it should again. Seeing how one button does the locking and unlocking, the windows don't move regardless of how long I hold the remotes button.

It raises up and down, I just wish it went another inch or so lower and the light didn't flash. If I buy, that's something I'll look into.

I agree the mods can be hit or miss on resale value, but for me and knowing I'd pay for them eventually, it's a plus good me. This guy bought it at an auction, so he's got no claim to try and justify any costs whatsoever.

With that said, here's where in at so far:

Washed, dryed and parked in the garage last night. Called it a night. Today I've got the engine dressing off and have verified it's got an EVONS intake kit which is the dual filters, heat shields and silicone reducers which feed into the stock piping. I'm only seeing .6 bar on the stock boost gauge, but I'm still going hoping it's got software...and if not, that means it's only going to be faster. I pulled all the fuses on the drivers side under the hood, but the amplifier is still giving me the same error message.

I'm trying to see the coolant pipes per this write-up - rennlist.com/forums/porsche-cayenne-forum/550109-plastic-or-aluminum-coolant-pipes-how-to-tell-without-intake-removal.html but I just can't see with either my inspection mirror or my endoscope. For now I'm just going to assume it's been done since there is a vacuum hose routed differently on the vehicle (circled in red) vs how it's done in the write-up. Time to raise the truck for engine leaks, then hopefully I'll find some aftermarket diverter valves, a healthy cardan shaft, second cat delete pipes and.figure out the brand of this muffler.

 

You could buy mine and ship it to yourself for less than those and have on already lowered via durametric and no issues.

 

Upon further inspection, this thing is actually in pretty good shape. Cardan shaft looks fine, center support bearing and guibo donut are fine. I removed the task lights, and other than a little rippled bend on some metal by the hitch, it's completely fine. I'm starting to believe him on that he things it was an insurance scam since he found everything inside the trunk. He said he put everything back on, did some welding on the mufflers and replaced the tail lights and added wheels (found the receipt for $2k in the Goode box with the owners manual). I still haven't verified the coolant tubes.

What I've found though:
- Rear main seal is leaking
- Slight oil leak by drivers side intercooler
- Amplifier still won't turn on - 148, fuses pulled on drivers side engine bay, all to no avail...any other suggestions?
- Hatch shocks are getting weak
- Stock diverter valves - is .6 bar standard with these mods? Since boost is relative to its restrictions of flow, I know better exhaust will reduce back pressure, which could explain it.

Aftermarket mods:
- Milltek exhaust with 2nd cat delete pipes (2.5") feeding into a resonator-free exhaust (2.75") into their dual mufflers
- EVOMS CAI
- Still not certain about a tune. Other than calling each vendor with the VIN, is there any other ways to verify?

I took a handful of pics, so it was easier to upload here - s42.photobucket.com/user/m5james/library/2005%20Porsche%20Cayenne%20TT?sort=3&page=1

So, with all that said, what's the consensus on what I should offer based on what it needed?

 

Is it something that has to stay on the vehicle to function, meaning can or be rented, settings changed and then sent back to you? Let's say I lower it an inch, does that mean I lose an inch at its highest setting as well?

 

Yes, you are changing the baseline height. i.e. use the durametric to reduce height by 20mm and it takes 20mm off of the baseline for each preset height setting

 

The drivers side intercooler leak is very common.. I went to local Porsche dealer (Barrier in Bellevue) and they knew right away what seals I needed and it was just a few bucks. I haven't taken it apart and done it yet, but I don't think its a difficult fix from talking with one of the techs there.


Also I think .6 bar is stock boost, the Cayennes that I've been in with tunes have both pegged the boost gauge over and held it there. Mine is 100% stock and boost goes to .6-.7 and slowly tapers off as rpms rise. Sometimes if Im building boost at part throttle and then punch it I can spike it a little higher, but it quickly settles to normal.


Being an insurance scam or not doesn't change that it is still a salvage title.. I wouldn't want to go very high on it. The amp issue could be something bigger, so I would want to negotiate even further in case a lot more needs to be replaced. I would want to get it around 12k-13k.


Good luck with the other issues.

 

Good to know. If I decide to get it, I might if I can bother you to find the receipt for the part number.

He said he's only seen .8 if he did it from a dead stop, then each gear afterwards it tapers down. That sounds like old school homemade boost controller type of dropoff vs an electronic controller like when I finally stepped up to a Greddy Pro-Fec in my MR2T and RX7TT days. I've read upsolute makes the most boost, but if he's holding stock levels, I'm going to guess it's on stock software.

He said the amp had quit only a day before I came to test drive it. When I took it back to him yesterday and told him what I'd tried, he knew about the 148 code and informed me he replaced the amp once already when he got it from auction, so I'm guessing there's something else at play here. While the stock system is nice, I think aftermarket is gong to be my easiest solution, be it replacing the amp and/or the deck.

 

I think they are the same if not very similar for the 2004 vs 2005.

 

You consider a car with these flaws to be in "pretty good shape"

That's potentially thousands of dollars in parts alone.