The ByDesign/Cobb Stage3 Results and the Precision Fit by ATXAutosport on the Install
#31
Originally Posted by wrs
COTA Cancelled, it flooded like hell out there this morning and the track said no way for Sunday. They are giving us a makeup date by Tuesday. Oh well............
If it's clear I am going out to my favorite county road on Sunday with the Vbox.
If it's clear I am going out to my favorite county road on Sunday with the Vbox.
Fav road. Really appreciate all of your data and contributions
#32
I think it's the water vapor in the air being condensed by the removal of heat from the air, like condensation on air conditioner coils.. I am just trying to remember this based on my two semesters of chemistry from 40 years ago as a freshman in college. We did not spray the intercoolers but I think what happens is that if you remove enough heat from the air, the water vapor in the air condenses and I think maybe it's properly called the latent heat of condensation, I may have misnamed the process. Water isn't in gaseous form in the air, it's present as a vapor and really those clouds are condensation due to removal of heat from the air. I may be describing that incorrectly.
This is the opposite of an air conditioning coil. With an AC coil the coil is colder than the air around it. An intercooler is warmer than the air around it.
- Patrick
#33
WRS,
Did your installer have any suggestions for preventing the hose clamp from coming off again? I only ask because I will be doing the install myself and want to avoid needing to back-half the car again later to tighten up a slipped boost hose. You're lucky it happened on a dyno instead of out in the desert!
Thanks,
Patrick
Did your installer have any suggestions for preventing the hose clamp from coming off again? I only ask because I will be doing the install myself and want to avoid needing to back-half the car again later to tighten up a slipped boost hose. You're lucky it happened on a dyno instead of out in the desert!
Thanks,
Patrick
#34
WRS,
Did your installer have any suggestions for preventing the hose clamp from coming off again? I only ask because I will be doing the install myself and want to avoid needing to back-half the car again later to tighten up a slipped boost hose. You're lucky it happened on a dyno instead of out in the desert!
Thanks,
Patrick
Did your installer have any suggestions for preventing the hose clamp from coming off again? I only ask because I will be doing the install myself and want to avoid needing to back-half the car again later to tighten up a slipped boost hose. You're lucky it happened on a dyno instead of out in the desert!
Thanks,
Patrick
#35
WRS,
Did your installer have any suggestions for preventing the hose clamp from coming off again? I only ask because I will be doing the install myself and want to avoid needing to back-half the car again later to tighten up a slipped boost hose. You're lucky it happened on a dyno instead of out in the desert!
Thanks,
Patrick
Did your installer have any suggestions for preventing the hose clamp from coming off again? I only ask because I will be doing the install myself and want to avoid needing to back-half the car again later to tighten up a slipped boost hose. You're lucky it happened on a dyno instead of out in the desert!
Thanks,
Patrick
What it seems is that the IPD Y-Pipe is more rigid than the OEM plastic connector is. They had run the car over the speed bump back and forth in the parking lot about twenty times to get to hear the intermittent rear end clunk. That may have caused the connector to become loose. What happens is that the hose and the Ypipe separate and the connector just slips back. I took some pictures.
They are keeping the car overnight and going to try and get a better clamp tomorrow. I don't know if you could use some silicon glue to get a better adherence between the hose and Y-pipe. Anyway, this does seem to be a problem that remains to be solved. In the pictures it appears the clamp is secure but on the bottom, the hose is not flush with the Ypipe as it is on top, they are angled apart by about 1/8 inch. So they have to be completely level when attached and then, if the Ypipe moves independently, it can cause the clamp to shift.
#38
Thanks for posting. I think the primary mode of failure is most likely the engine rocking back and forth under load. If I remember correctly, the Y-pipe is anchored to the bumper support so I don't think it's the Y-pipe moving around. Please update us on what clamp they come up with. A link to the product would be super. I'm looking at T-bolt clamps similar to what we used on aircraft.
Thanks,
- Patrick
Thanks,
- Patrick
Last edited by PMNewton; 11-05-2015 at 08:08 PM.
#42
That is what the board is for, one of us will find the solution and everyone can share it. I am hoping ATX will figure it out and I think they are looking at the Tbolt clamp if they can find the right one.
#44
Happened on the road today and no error codes thrown, just a nasty sucking sound. I was just leaving ATXAutosport after visiting them for a rear end clunk sound that just showed up a couple of days ago. When I accelerated onto the freeway I heard this horrendous noise that I thought was some kind of rasping and then when it kept happening as I got on the gas I realized it was a sucking sound. So I turned around and took the car back.
#45
Originally Posted by jmorgan911
I had the EXACT same symptoms when my intake pipe came loose shortly after picking the car up. Turns out it was a defective part. I suppose any of the intake hoses could be loose and make the same sounds, so it might be a good idea to check them all even though you think it might be the IPD