135 mph is great for a trap speed (I have never gotten higher than 132 on trap speed) but the 60 foot time is not even close to where it should be. Try switching to Michelin Pilot Super Sports. They give me 1.5 60 foot times on a prepped dragstrip when conditions are good. John Morgan actually turned a 1.4 second 60 foot time on P Zeros at Atco during our private track rental day but his car does not produce as much power as yours must (his is Cobb Stage 2).

 

From what I understand, if the car has a lower ET, it will have a lower trap speed but if it spins some and has a higher ET, it will have a higher trap speed. I have seen a number of discussions about this on different drag racing boards. Both of these were taken with the reduced boost on LC map that Jon gave me with TC off. The faster speed at the track is also partly attributable to the difference between Sunoco MS104 with the 100 octane map vs Shell Vpower 93 and the 93 map on the county road. The race gas really helps with trap speed too.

I hope to get out to the drag strip some time this month and try again. I will try to make my next set of tires the PSS but they just are hard to find in stock and I hate to buy a set in advance as I have nowhere to store them.

 

You won't run the PSS as your dailies?

 

I would but I am not going to throw away a $2000 set of PZeros just to get PSS if they are in stock. Right now my tires are fine, they are all new with only one track session on them. I replaced them in November and there were no PSS available at the time. I had the PSS on my M5 and I think they are good tires but I haven't yet been able to buy them for my Porsche and I am on my third set of rears and second set of fronts.

 

Let me see if I can offer some helpful tips:


First, lower your tire psi to 30# all around...maybe even 28# in the rear. Do so when tires are COLD, not warm. I found it best to do so at home in your garage and then simply drive to track. Once done racing, find air hose; most track have them and air up your tires (bring air gauge) and drive back home.


Now, on to the juicy part for ya:
*Move driver seat forward; as comfortably as you can. This ensures full pedal mashing upon launch.
*Set back of seat upright...the gangsta lean will not help you net the best ET's
*Go around water box
*TURN OFF TC
*At a coupe of feet in front of water box, do a quick throttle stab (brake boost) to clean tires and to get some heat in them
*Try lining car/tires in the stickiest line and creep forward to pre-stage
(I prefer lining up right after big slicks cars...they leave a nice sticky patch)
*Once the two staged light beams come on, initiate LC and leave on the last yellow light.
*SIDE STEP the brake pedal...do not allow left leg to come straight back
*Floor the gas pedal to the floor!
*Both hands on steering wheels - 3 & 9...let car do the shifting/aim straight
*Don't load car with unnecessary junk, and try racing with less than half tank of fuel


That's it...get some practice and you'll be on your way to quicker ET's. Remember, Elapsed Times win races, NOT MPH.


Hope this helps


Thanks,
E-Gear

 

I do all of 1-4 and 7-11, I have even achieved a .0018s reaction time but I haven't tried the throttle thing. EcpChris described how to do it but I tried it on the county road and can't get any spin. So here is what I do. While in line I go around the car and use my hand to rub off any gravel from the surface of each tire. Hopefully I don't pick up much on the way to the starting line. I usually line up in the middle of the track since it's the safest at SAR.

The problem I have with driving to the track with such low tire pressure is that it's 70 miles away and I don't want to risk damage to the tires running them that low for so far. I usually go to 30 and 32 after I get there but that hasn't helped much and the car can get squirrelly. While it's true that low ET's win races, fast reaction times win more in my experience when the cars are closely matched. I have beat up on a lot of faster cars by having a better reaction time. The lower LC map I was using in February was giving me trouble on the timing of LC to engagement. Normally I stage first and wait for the other guy to stage. As soon as he stages I enter LC and then release the brake about halfway through the second yellow for the sport tree or on the yellow for pro tree. The car will stay in LC for 8 seconds I think.

 

You are currently running what my car runs stock. Given your mods, you should running quicker ET's buddy.


Reaction time only matters if you're racing the guy on the next lane for bragging rights or cash...it does squat if you're trying to maximize for best ET.


Often, during test and tune nights, I race the clock and NOT the other guy. I usually let them go and race the clock/me, not the other person. Remember, your clock/time does not start until you break the light beams with your front tires.


If you're out improve ET's then focus on that, DO NOT worry about Joe Blow in the other lane. If you're out to simply beat the guy in the next lane, then try to out tree him/her, hold him/her off at the end and brag about it if that's your thing.


Me, I'm all about quick ET's...quick ET's win races. Reaction times is good to shoot for especially if both combatants are equal, but just think how much of a killa you'll be if you can abstract quicker ET's combined with dead on reaction times???


Take it from me, or don't. Focus on your 60' times (tires/heat/psi), launch techniques and so on. I said this because: given your car, your Mods and current track results, it tells me that you're leaving ET's on the table...at least 0.4tenth and that's a lot in drag racing.


As far as the tires, you wont hurt them. But if you don't feel comfortable, measure PSI cold, then once at track (warm) and use simple math to reduce PSI and race.


Thanks,
E-Gear

 

So the tires were at 30 and 32 there. I lowered them when I got there to 28 and 30 but the back end got very loose on me the first time down the track so I added air thinking that was it. Turns out I had a nail in the left rear but didn't know it. Anyway, I have tried a lot of different stuff to help with the bad 60 foot times and I still can't get better than 1.6 but I have always run Pzeros. Sure I would love to cut the 60ft times down but I haven't been able to and I am not sure why. You see anything wrong in the video? Here is what is really weird, the tires were at 45-50 all the way around on the 10.56 run on the county road. I have to think that SAR just doesn't let the PZero's grip.

 

Heat your tires. Boost Brake and allow tires to aggressively roll...it cleans and heats them which will help greatly.


It is often the driver/set up error which causes poor 60' ft and not favorable ET's; not the track. Remember, as your 60' time improves, so will your ET's.


If SA was that bad, then everyone who race there would have sucky ET's and so on...that is not the case. SA is a nice fast track...as good as ENNIS.


Thanks,
E-Gear

 

All correct. My best ETs are with tears at 28 and fronts at 30 -- cold.

Also:

1. Turn PDCC off
2. Retract spoilers
3. AC off
4. Turn off all electrical devices
5. Remove absolutely everything from the car that you can including the tools and inflator in the front trunk.
6. Run as close to the fuel reserve warning as possible without getting into it -- so just over 1/4 tank.

The steps produce 10 threes every time I provided the track is warm enough to cook. If I were lighter I'd probably be in the 10.2s or 10.1s and/or if I had Mickey Thompson's instead of pilot super sports.

And yes, you will get your fastest times with PSC off -- if it is warm enough to hook.

 

Yep! I forgot to mention the above, especially #1; it helps with weight transfer to the rear upon launch.


Additionally, since it gets pretty hot in Texas and if you like, buy yourself a Nitrous bottle (10lbs or bigger) and use it to spray your IC's before a run. Having a buddy helps...he or she can spray your IC from the side/underneath cavity before you roll up for a pass. While in the pits, you can soak IC with water then spray NOS to freeze them. Cooler IC's, especially bigger aftermarket units are a must for consistent ET's.


Thanks,
E-Gear

 

Looks like everyone with a tune and exhaust is right around low 10's and around 130mph.

 

I'm not doing another Cobb vs GIAC/Champion thread.

I happy with the fact that my turbos are being protected by the much lower IATs upgraded ICs bring than the crappy stock ICs. And I am happy that the Champion mods on my car carry a consequential damages warranty to Porsche OEM parts for 4 years/50k miles. I am quite happy with a 10.316 on street tires and a 10.1 capability with Mickey Thompsons which Mark Blackwell's car achieved with same mods as mine.

I have nothing bad to say about Cobb/ByDesign
mods. I'm happy for those who have them that they're getting great performance numbers.

 

Sorry I'm just trollin'. I have AMS IC's and it hasn't made me faster either.

 

BTW, my friend, just because someone else ran a certain time with similar set up as yours, it does not mean that you would run the same. Many variables are at play, such as driving skills, weight and so on. The only way to be 100% sure that you can run 10.1's or better is to go out and do so yourself. Otherwise, all you doing is speculating. I'm just sayin'

Bigger IC's don't usually add more ponies. However, they do help keep IAT's down when the boost is turned up and/or when out making repeated runs.


Thanks,
E-Gear