http://yel.pca.org/porsche-engine-break-in/

I found this this evening

 

linky no worky...

 

The link info is correct. I suggest that you copy and paste the link

 

thanks for your help

http://yel.pca.org/porsche-engine-break-in/

 

Must be nice to be an expert.

 

Most people assume if you post a link here that you can click on it.

Anyway.... interesting article.

 

Good read. Thanks for the referral.

 

That is a good find and indeed does make a lot of sense. One does not think too much about using Mobil No.1 and the effects this can have on the break in period. From my own experience tinkering with racing engines (mainly two stroke motor cycles in the 80's) and use of early synthetic lubricants it was quite similar - we never used synthetic oils until the engines where ready for the track - they just did not wear in properly in the short time given, however, only with synthetic lubs did we get the engines to sustain their incredibly high RPM at least for a few races.

Now, would it not be a great idea if P would add a few notes of explanation to the manual ? I'm pretty sure it would cause a few to be less heavy on the throttle in the early days...

Rainier

 

Great explanation. I think it's probably a bit more complicated with the new enhanced cooling / cooling management system, but we'll see if they change their guidance over time. For now, I'm following it. And I'm not comfortable that there's a light switch at 2000 miles. My observation is as was stated that mileage / performance go up to it's peak at 20,000 miles so I'm thinking there's more wearing in going on after the 2000 miles is finished. My experience tells me that it would not be prudent to do a launch at 2001 miles, rather keep moving up the RPM a little at a time until it reaches the max at various loads ranges. Load makes a lot of difference. Also so it seems prudent to work the max downshift RPM up a little at a time after that.

Of course, contradicting all this is our experience when we go to test drive these things and the salesman says do whatever you want with it or when the salesmen go to their training sessions in CA and they drive them to their limit. The poor people that end up buying those cars!

ChuckJ

 

To the OP, thank you for the link and relevant info. It is good to know.

I agree with your comments and would add at its also worth changing the oil after the break-in period. It is of course not a necessity but I have always done this and often found iron filings in the residue. My P mechanic also agrees.

 

AGREED and I plan to do that also. In addition, I suspect that thermal cycles may be very important.

ChuckJ

 

Maybe someone here can explain this because I am not even close to being an engineer ... when we get the temperature readings from the dashboard gauges I don't notice any change when fully warmed up in temperature (other then a few degree's in either direction)when driving easy to driving hard ... isn't this the temperature of the engine ?

If driving hard rises the temp from the additional friction wouldn't this show up on the Gauges ?

Again I am far from any type of expert in this field so maybe someone can explain ... thank you.

 

The analog instrument should probably be used for relative position only. It usually sits at 200 degrees and the car operates at 221 unless you are in sport. If you want to know the exact water and oil temperatures you have to put it on the multi-function display.

ChuckJ

 

I agree,
I changed my oil at 500 miles and I will be doing it again shortly. I did not his sport until after 1,000 miles or sport plus until after 2000 miles, and I just crossed 3000 miles and, except for a few short shifting errors, I am just now going over 5000 rims consistently. Good fresh oil and slow and steady. But I still thnk you can throw it around the track now and again - it is not that fragile.

 

I do use the multi-function display (it's my diamond on the steering wheel) all the time but what I am trying to understand is how would 20 degree's effect breaking in the engine.

In other words the article stated Engine temp as a reason for not going over 4200 rpm's because the higher the rpm's it states the engine gets hotter ... I don't think my car's temp has ever hit over 228 or 229 so 20 to 30 degree's during break in is that critcal or am I missing something about the way parts heat up that wouldn't register on the mutli function.