Good morning,
I just finished replacing the dampers on my 2010 Rapide, and I am now getting a "ADS off" error message on the dash, and the suspensions go into the "harsh" mode...
I ran my scanner and it's giving me 2 codes:
- C110E = Left rear damper valve fault
- C110F = Right rear damper valve fault
I can erase them, but they will show up the next time I start the car.
I am not getting error messages for the front dampers, so I assume it's not the module.
Any help appreciated, thank you!

 

Bad new parts? Plug in the old ones and clear/cycle the key. I'd venture to say continuity to the new rears is open circuit.

 

I hooked up my scanner again and I noticed a couple of interesting paramaters.

First, the "calculation data" for the right rear damper is at 253, when the other 3 dampers are at 0 or 1.
I tried reconnecting the "old" damper but the result is the same...


Then I looked at the measured and commanded currents to all 4 dampers, and all 8 values remain at 0, even when I am driving.


Now I am starting to actually suspect the ADS module...

Did I miss something? Is there a reset procedure? Or a programming?

 

Modules don't just die. Did you try a battery disconnect?

 

Also, system sees a fault so it's setting all dampers to failsafe. I would recheck connections on all 4. Obviously fronts are easy to check. Perhaps you just have the 1 rear that is at fault.

 

Checked all the connectors, did the battery disconnect for 1 minute, tried to plug back a "old" damper... same results 😒

 

So much for a simple R/R.

 

Just checked both fuses, they both seemed fine.

What I noticed earlier is that if I press the ADS button on the console to turn on the bypass of the ADS system, then I don't have an error message.
As soon as I try to reactivate the ADS system => the message comes on...

 

Going by your codes before, you said rear. Then you had 3 good readings. I'd try getting an Ohms reading on the new vs old damper. Still thinking you have a bad new part.

 

I tested continuity on the rear dampers, and sure enough, both seem to be open circuits
Front dampers have continuity.
I'll try and connect two "good" dampers and see if I can get the error to go away.
Will update soon.
Thank you!

 

Sounds like a progressive thing. Fingers crossed it an easy fix.

 

Thanks to the docs that @UltraMarine posted, I found the actual procedure to test dampers:


Again, the 2 suspicious dampers didn't return any Ohm readings, whereas the "good" dampers returned a value within the range.
So my next step is to replace the 2 rear dampers (of course the more difficult ones to replace) and retest.
Will update as soon as it's done.

Thank you @J doubleU for all the help!

 

Finally replaced the rear shocks with good units, the message is gone, and the car is back to running properly!

 

Any difference in handling since the shock replacement?

 

I haven't driven long enough to notice a real difference.
For now I am just enjoying my car being back on the road