I'm the same - interested in Clear Bra cleaning, and not a cleaning perfectionist... (with 5 and 3 yr old boys - not enough time in the day!)

 

Wow - I love the look of the 50! Enjoy it when it comes in. My daughter is now 16, about to start driver's ed, and looking at my 991 in a whole new way - she will never find the keys! I did learn one great cleaning trick for kids and a 911 - take off their shoes as they get in!

 

Moe,
I did a little reading - this Reload is remarkable stuff - I am not talking about how well it works - I will take your word for that and order some. I am talking about HOW it works and that it works at all.


The literature says it is "inorganic" which to me, as a former chemist, carries with it a lot of different meanings. Wax and synthetics are all polymers - plastic if you will. Some are of natural origin and some are not. But they are all based, in one way or another, on long chains of repeating units of carbon.


But this is different. It is sand or, more likely, very very small glass beads made primarily of silicon. People have long used silicon sprays for water proofing and silicon dioxide beads are found as a "glidant" in a great number of pharmaceutical products and they add lubricity - they make the powdered materials move along conveyors without sticking on there way to being compressed into tablets, for example.


This is what you are putting onto the car. It should improve shine - it is a micro fine sheet of glass! The question I have is why doesn't in scratch? One reason could be that it is very slippery by nature. But if you pushed it hard enough, it should still work like grit. Another possibility is that it does scratch the surface, but just is so fine a level, that we cannot detect it. I bet some of both are going on.


Is this a product you would ever put directly on a car or only as a sealing layer over a waxed car?


Thanks for pointing this stuff out - reading about it has been the most interesting part of my day (than again, I am at work!)

 

Just so that you understand my confusion in this whole area, I like to frequent local places where I can. There is a nice guy in Lodi NJ who sells nothing but washing and detailing equipment. And his website said the following:


"Avoid silicone-based products as they are not beneficial to paint and may cause problems down the road. Ask any professional car painter their thoughts on silicone products and you will usually get a 30-minute tirade." How do I reconcile that with Reload - I am sure that the local guy was not talking about products with nanoparticles?


OK, now what? Makes me wonder if my dad was not correct, colgate palmalive and turtle wax using old cloth diapers! Oh well, if it is good enough for Moe...

 

Just tried:

http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/...h+35+ounces.do

Was surprised & will continue to use. Works very good!

For a quick perk-up between clay & wax jobs I use:

http://www.autogeek.net/pinnacle-sou...spray-wax.html

 

Thanks! I don't even like the sound of using clay. won't that kill your clear coat?

 

No harm at all....clay takes the sediments off the surface of the clear coat - it does remove existing wax.

The Spray Car Wash has lots of "lubricity" & with a thick micro fibre towel,
takes the surface film and dirt right off.

I was a non-believer in the Spray Wash till I tried it.

 

I am good with that - I will give it a shot - as it is supposed to go from 50 degrees today back down to 20 degrees in a few days. Thanks!

 

Make sure you wash the car before doing the clay.


Have fun!

 

Griot's waterless wash. I am going to probably wait for everything else until after I get my car detailed next. When I wash with water, I will use the P21 that Moe recommended. I will look at the speed shine and I am also intrigued by the Reload nano-technology spray as well. I wonder if you can use them both, one after the other - speed wax followed by Reload?


My favorite wax has been P21. There are millions of them. But I have let the detail shop do the wax lately.


Either way, I can't wait for spring so I can actually do something!

 

Hey AG, trust me on the glass towel thing. I've spent a fortune (cannot release that info because the big boss cannot learn the truth) experimenting around and NOTHING and I mean NOTHING works better on glass than KB Wypall. And for $25 bucks for 6 towels, you can't go wrong. You need two of course, one to spread product and the other to buff clean. Few things/products that I feel are absolute MUST HAVES in the detailing world, however these towels make that list. If you want to talk MF Towels we can but hold onto your wallet. haha

 

One of the other MUST HAVES on my list is the nanoskin wash mitt. This is a high tech replacement for detailing clay. Once you try this, you'll never go back. I have the mitt, towel and 5.5" buffing pads for my Flex 3401. Claying the car would take me between 1-1.5 hours. I can do it now in 20 minutes while it's at the curb after a two bucket wash. OMG, this product is fantastic. Use their Glide lube which is a concentrate & dilute 1-7 which is clearly stated on the bottle.

http://www.autogeek.net/nanoskin-aut...ium-grade.html

 

The way it was explained
To me is you nano coat and then the reload is just after washes to maintain the nano..

Nano is instead of wax

 

Thanks all. I have some serious experimenting to do as soon as the weather improves!

 

When the clay collects contaminates I fold it or get another piece. Does the mitt self clean?