Unfortunately, almost every product on the market will have silicones in it. Silicones are a no-no for bodyshops because of how it reacts to paint. Other than that, there's nothing wrong with silicones. So, long as you're getting the better quality silicone. I'm not a chemist, but have been told the cheap silicones will do more harm than good. There's a reason why one wax costs $10 /bottle and why another is $100...quality counts.

Nano is a whole different beast...all I can tell you is whenever we've used a nano product on the paint, it as never scratched it. Why it doesn't scratch, I'd love to understand from a chemist. I've been a purist for over two decades and have always used Carnauba as a wax to protect all my clients' cars. We've paid thousands for jars of wax; Zymol Vintage is our standard wax for our Rejuvenation and Detoxification service. When I stumbled on to a nano coating about three years ago, I knew our industry had crossed a milestone in innovation. Now, almost every car we do, has some sort of nano coating involved to protect it.

As mentioned before, Reload is something that has impressed me a lot. It's worth the $$ and it will impress you as well. Perhaps you can call the manufacturer and pick their brain and report back. I'd love to hear your feedback on what info you learn.

 

Moe,
Thanks for taking the time to respond. I have already ordered a bottle. I have a good local detailer and I will rely on a professional to do the "heavy lifting" for my car care. I am going to use many of the products and techniques people have been kind enough to suggest for the basic wash and touch-up during the spring and summer.

Warmest regards to all
Michael

 

Simply rinse it with soap and water. Probably last for 40-50 cars.

 

I've used RELOAD in the past and it's fantastic. My only criticism is it doesn't play nicely with other products. For someone like me who likes experimenting and waxing his cars every couple of weeks, it's not a good choice and for that matter neither are coatings. If I were detailing for a living, I would use a coating everyday since most want something that you can set it and forget it. RELOAD as a topper for their nano coating or as a standalone product, is a cut above.

 

You're right. There is a light haze if the two products, reload and brand X wax, aren't compatible. But, usually by using less reload, and a final wipedown with a clean mf towel solves the problem. But a typical DIYer should be using reload maybe once/twice a month. So that little bottle should be lasting 6-12 months...maybe more

 

Onr wash and wax. This stuff is amazing.

 

Moe, what deionizer or spotless rinse you rec???
I have a black car and out water has a ton of minerals in it. Something portable works better for me.

 

AG,

As others have stated already, don't be afraid of clay! A clay bar does wonders for your paint… it can be a PITA to clay every single inch of your car; you can always have a mobile detailer do it for you. Once your car is washed and then clayed, the paint feels almost brand-new and is super soft to the touch. Add a couple of coats of wax, and you can literally watch a towel slide off of the hood.

 

Go high tech. Once you try this you'll never touch clay again.

http://www.autogeek.net/nanoskin-aut...ium-grade.html

 

I appreciate your clay/nano skin advice...I do. But it still makes me nervous. Clay, compounding and the like are for damaged paint. My car has12k miles, has been in the rain, but not often and has been wrapped in wax and clear bra fallowing its first professional detail which happened 3 days after I got it home. It does not have damaged paint!

The PtAg paint is not as rich as black or the Aqua blue - my second choice - or as the GT silver. I would like to do what I can to keep it protected and to bring out its depth of color, but I am nervous about applying anything more abrasive than DAWN dish detergent.

Besides. I drive in JerZ. As our snow melts and concentrates, it develops a black crust from all the particulate and other materials suspended in our air. So I live in an abrasive state - think of it as driving through a constant clay

I am going to leave these decisions in the hands of professional detailers. But the between detailing advice you guys have given me for between details has been terrific. I already have some green MF cloths, waterless was and Reload on order! And after a weekend in the 50s made me think of spring, it is back in the 30s today, a reminder that spring is still a month away!

Thanks again for all the great advice!
Michael

 

AG, thanks for the thread. I always end up learning something new about teqnique or a new product on threads like this. I like so many others, am afflicted with Clean Car Syndrome and therefore am on the never ending quest for that special elixir.

Ok, Moe I'm convinced! I'm going to give Reload a go. Any prep? Do I need to clay to remove the old wax?

Just to emphasize CR spotless, a huge help even where water quality is good.

 

Try this then, wash your car and get it "clean." Than grab a thin plastic sandwich bag from the kitchen. Place your hand inside of the bag and feel your paint. This is the ultimate test as to whether your paint is contaminant free or not. Only way to safely remove those particles is to Nanoskin/clay the surface. I also understand your concerned about micro-marring the surface but the truth be told, even if you use waterless wash or detail spray on the paint, these processes can/will cause mico-marring. Of course these "defects" are more or less visible depending on the exterior color. Black (non metallic) is the worst and white or silver the best. Agate gray seems to be on the good side btw. Using a light polish like Sonax 3/6 or Menzerna 4000 with a DA with easily restore the surface to perfection.

Don't be afraid to clay the surface-probably only required 2x a year and a pristine surface allows the LSP to bond better. Your really not going to hurt the paint.

 

Agreed.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-YIYfAS9vR4#t=220

This is an excellent video that takes you through the entire car care process. Mike Phillips & Todd Helme are the grand masters. Todd is one of the few people that I would let detail my car. And on top of it all, one of the nicest and most helpful people around. About 30 minutes but especially worthwhile for newbies. Don't get hung up on the exact products they are using, typically they create these instructional videos and showcase a particular product line. The Blackfire compound and polish are fine, but there are probably as good if not better choices out there. Pay attention to the process and approach. Watch a few videos to get your confidence up and give it a go.

 

In the process of detailing my car - getting ready for spring. Anyway, question is, is spray wax better than paste or creme wax. Spray wax is convenient and easy to use - spray on and wipe off and you get a pretty good shine. With creme or paste wax, it is a longer process -- need to apply on car with a form applicator, wait for it to dry (depending on brand), and then wipe off. One is definitely easier than the other, but which one gives the better shine, more luster, and depth?