rolled my rear fenders today. I added the Cargraphic 7mm rear wheel spacers (beautifully machined pieces by the way!) to get the rear wheels right out to the edge. I was a little concerned about the possibility of rubbing so I bit the bullet and started rolling!!

Once I developed the "technique" it went very smoothly and easily. The first side took about 10 minutes and the second side took about 4 minutes. I kid you not. It turned out fabulous!!

The $21 Louisville sure beats the $1200 professional fender rolling tool!!!!

 

Hahah way to go Ken!!! Kevin taught me how to roll the Louisville Slugger way! He did a great job too.. I did an "ok" job lol.... How wide are your rims in the rear? I think I should also widen my track a little. The tires could come out a bit.

 

this thread is worthless without pics

 

Did you heat up the lip before rolling... and if not, I assume you didn't experience any paint cracking? Good to know that Turbo fenders are just as easy to fold as any other car.

I've rolled my own fenders before with no issues on a previous car... the lip was so easy to manipulate, I simply used my bare hands, ha.

 

To bad you didn't live over here, I have about 100 bats in the garage. But as pistol said pictures please. I would like to see how it turned out.

 

Ken... I was just looking at my car yesterday and thinking... when I lower this, the wheels will be inset a bit too much. Is it possible to compensate for this with the offset of the wheels in order to avoid the use of spacers?

 

Ken, get out the million dollar camera and post some shots.

Knowing you, it will be perfect.

 

it's funny..when i told people i had to put spacers in they said"don't do that..it will add weight to the car"..i didnt listen to anyone...it makes the wheel fit perfectly under the well.....ken pics please.......

 

I always laugh when people tell me they pay rediculous amounts for fender rolling. I just met some guy who paid $400 to just have his rears rolled

We've been using bats for YEARS

 

Let me help you out there Preeth...

 

Ditto.......

 

Alright, alright!!! Here they are!!! They don't say much. That is why I didn't post them originally, but since you asked.......

 

Ken... how is the proceedure performed?

 

I did it with the car on the lift at eye level. I imagine this helps tremendously since you can see all angles very clearly. I also kept the wheels on for leverage. I jacked up the car slightly to allow the fat end of the bat (please wrap bat with a strong rag) to barely fit between the top of the tire and the lip. Very gently, and with many passes so as not to kink it, I used what is best described as a rowing motion. Let's say you start with the rear right wheel. You would start at either 10:00 or 2:00 and work your way around. I angled the bat diagonally pointing towards the left front wheel to start and, with slight upward leverage gained from resting on the tire, sort of rowing the bat forward so that at the end of the row stroke the bat was pointing towards the left rear wheel. This addresses approximately 2-3 inches at a time. It also minimizes any sort of serrated look when you are done.
UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES SHOULD YOU APPLY THE FORCE IN ONE SPOT!!! This could kink the lip or even the fender and will result in a serrated look....BAD!

Disclaimer:
I have some bodywork experience working with a close friend over the years on various cars of mine. I am also very adept at working with my hands. I am also into woodwworking and carpentry so if you have not done craftsman-like projects, I DO NOT RECOMMEND YOU DO THIS!!! The results could be disastrous and I cannot be responsible for any damages you may incur.

 

Ken,

What was the size and offset on the rear wheel and tire before you added the 7mm?

Thanks,

Oliver