Just Arrived : Tilton 996TT Street Clutch
Marty -
Because of the fluid changes, I would recomend switching to the GT2 setup (the majority of the problems we had originally was with the pentocin swelling the release bearing and causing irregular pedal pressure, once we switch back to DOT fluid all those problems went away and the pedal feel is now much more consistent. It's actually MUCH easier on this setup to do the GT2 conversion because all you are changing is the master cylinder, the Tilton uses a release bearing with the clutch pack, so you don't have to change the clutch fork, or tap the case for the GT2 slave. You won't need the "GT2 kit" that Evo and other venders sell, just the slave itself and a custom line which Nero will likely have available with the kit as well. You will get the same pedal feel and drop a TON of weight from both the clutch itself being 50-60% less weight, and the removal of the accumulator also drops a ton of weight as mentioned everywhere else. It's nice to drop 50-100lbs total off the car and get an upgraded pedal feel that will hold anything you want to throw at it. With a true carbon setup, the hotter it gets, the better it holds the power.
I know 1badgt2 has one on the way for his killer project, as well as another Protomotive car as well. I believe Markski has inquired as well for his next trek down the 1320.
-Wes
Because of the fluid changes, I would recomend switching to the GT2 setup (the majority of the problems we had originally was with the pentocin swelling the release bearing and causing irregular pedal pressure, once we switch back to DOT fluid all those problems went away and the pedal feel is now much more consistent. It's actually MUCH easier on this setup to do the GT2 conversion because all you are changing is the master cylinder, the Tilton uses a release bearing with the clutch pack, so you don't have to change the clutch fork, or tap the case for the GT2 slave. You won't need the "GT2 kit" that Evo and other venders sell, just the slave itself and a custom line which Nero will likely have available with the kit as well. You will get the same pedal feel and drop a TON of weight from both the clutch itself being 50-60% less weight, and the removal of the accumulator also drops a ton of weight as mentioned everywhere else. It's nice to drop 50-100lbs total off the car and get an upgraded pedal feel that will hold anything you want to throw at it. With a true carbon setup, the hotter it gets, the better it holds the power.
I know 1badgt2 has one on the way for his killer project, as well as another Protomotive car as well. I believe Markski has inquired as well for his next trek down the 1320.
-Wes
I cannot wait to try this set-up with the killer engine and sequential shift mechanism on my car. Has to be better than the metallic options.
Also note for many people who never plan to make a high HP car this clutch is also a good solution, many road racers choose the Tilton and lower HP street drivers for the useability of the clutch. I have the triple carbon in my 450hp Supra for that reason. With a lot of the mod's Onelove's done I'm starting to wish I still had that car.
I think the Porsche community will be singing the same song the Supra community was singing...
At first it's "holy ****, it's expensive..."
Then you buy it and you find yourself saying "holy ****, I cannot believe I didn't buy this thing sooner..."
Hell, I'm going to purchase from Titan a Tilton for my 840 rwhp Supra. Do I need one? Oh not even close, but I loved it THAT much on my other car...
Great job onelove, Nero and Titan Motorsports!
Peter
At first it's "holy ****, it's expensive..."
Then you buy it and you find yourself saying "holy ****, I cannot believe I didn't buy this thing sooner..."
Hell, I'm going to purchase from Titan a Tilton for my 840 rwhp Supra. Do I need one? Oh not even close, but I loved it THAT much on my other car...
Great job onelove, Nero and Titan Motorsports!
Peter
If you like having an extra 40-60lbs of equipment on your car it make sense. I've always subscribed to the lighter is better theory when it comes to cars. With the Tilton the pedal is super like and has a nice range of clutch pedal travel with these items removed. The main reason being the Tilton uses it's own release bearing rather than the factor slave cylinder. This clutch won't be for everyone, largely as a result of the cost, but for those looking for the best at any power level, it's a great solution.
how is the heavier flywheel continuing to work for you????????????
Drives like a dream. Setup is perfect now. I would definately recommend the setup, I've been driving the car on the street quite a bit lately and no issues.
Are getting any chatter from the clutch? Any idea how you are doing on "wear" of the disks? Is the clutch on/off, or are you getting decent engagement "play" thru the clutch stroke?
On the light flywheel which is known to be harsher on the clutches life, I drove 3-4k miles and the clutch barely showed any signs of wear past break in. The clutches will last quite a while without needing to be shimmed or rebuilt from what I've seen in the past.
Definitely decent engagement that you can play through. If you're just cruising the clutch is very easy to drive as well, it's light enough to where it doesn't get annoying going from light to light.
Hey OneLove, you mentioned that 'the engagement is in the middle'. That's an excellent result, as one of the problems with the 996TT clutch is the engagement is too high. How did you achieve the lower engagement point?
Thanks!
Thanks!
Updated : Tilton finally finished the heavier street flywheel this week, had it installed yesterday. "From Tilton - This flywheel 128% increase in weight of previous flywheel will increase moment of inertia 164%"
This car is a dream to drive, I'm willing to bet my mom or kid could drive the car with no problems. The zing noise at startup is gone, chattering reduced, and driveability greatly improved (even though it wasn't bad before). Anything I "accepted' about this clutch has been resolved and it is now an absolute pleasure to drive.
For a street car I think this is now the perfect setup for those looking for high HP drivers. The clutch pedal is very nice, you don't have to squat 500lbs to be able to press the clutch, the engagement is in the middle. You have a bit of room so that you can drive the car and let the clutch take the abuse, and with the clutch pack rated to over 1200lb tq so it's likely to take as much power as anyone has put to date with a 996 (beyond that a quad-disk could be available). As far as wear is concerned I put 2-3K miles on the clutch, some hard street driving, some cruising, some highway, when we inspected the clutch today it had just been broken in and still has plenty of clutch left before needing the first spacer (you get 3). I'm sure many will get years of usage before ever needing a service or plate change. On the dyno today it made 527rwhp/541tq at 1.1-1.2bar and this is how I have been driving it for months with the K24/18G.
Current Setup : Tilton Heavy Flywheel, Tilton Release bearing (takes the place of slave) with Dot4 seal, and a GT2 Master Cylinder with custom line and both the accumulator and clutch spring removed seems to be the ideal setup. This was my first time developing a clutch and while there was some teething to get to the finish product, the end result was well worth the time and wait time for parts. It was a sacrifice worth making as now anyone who needs this clutch will have it available to them, and I've got a clutch ready for the extra power I'm going to throw at it in the coming months with additional upgrades. Nero @ Titan can get this setup for anyone who needs it, 1 other person already has one in production and other big hitters have already inquired as well.
This car is a dream to drive, I'm willing to bet my mom or kid could drive the car with no problems. The zing noise at startup is gone, chattering reduced, and driveability greatly improved (even though it wasn't bad before). Anything I "accepted' about this clutch has been resolved and it is now an absolute pleasure to drive.
For a street car I think this is now the perfect setup for those looking for high HP drivers. The clutch pedal is very nice, you don't have to squat 500lbs to be able to press the clutch, the engagement is in the middle. You have a bit of room so that you can drive the car and let the clutch take the abuse, and with the clutch pack rated to over 1200lb tq so it's likely to take as much power as anyone has put to date with a 996 (beyond that a quad-disk could be available). As far as wear is concerned I put 2-3K miles on the clutch, some hard street driving, some cruising, some highway, when we inspected the clutch today it had just been broken in and still has plenty of clutch left before needing the first spacer (you get 3). I'm sure many will get years of usage before ever needing a service or plate change. On the dyno today it made 527rwhp/541tq at 1.1-1.2bar and this is how I have been driving it for months with the K24/18G.
Current Setup : Tilton Heavy Flywheel, Tilton Release bearing (takes the place of slave) with Dot4 seal, and a GT2 Master Cylinder with custom line and both the accumulator and clutch spring removed seems to be the ideal setup. This was my first time developing a clutch and while there was some teething to get to the finish product, the end result was well worth the time and wait time for parts. It was a sacrifice worth making as now anyone who needs this clutch will have it available to them, and I've got a clutch ready for the extra power I'm going to throw at it in the coming months with additional upgrades. Nero @ Titan can get this setup for anyone who needs it, 1 other person already has one in production and other big hitters have already inquired as well.
This setup does not use Porsches Slave cylinder, but rather it's own hydraulic relaease bearing that attaches to the clutch pack. Combined with a GT2 Clutch master, custom line and the removal of the factory Accumulator setup (a documented weight savings of 35-45 lbs alone without factoring the massive weight savings the clutch/flywhel also offers). I also removed the release spring behind the pedal which when all combined gave us a setup that was night and day different than the original clutch setup (with the master cylinder being the only portion used).
Glad to see all the testing is done!! This is the 1 and only clutch that you can bet will hold the power and is super easy to drive on.. I have put 900+whp to my tilton carbon in my evo and it takes whatever you can throw at it.. As soon as people give the tilton a try they will never go back to any other clutch..
The price is justified by the product. $6,000 gets you a true carbon disc clutch, and it also includes the custom release bearing and flywheel. It will hold up to whatever anyone on this forum can throw at it (whereas some such as Markski can not say the same about the Carbonetics) and offers better than stock drivability. This clutch is by far overkill for my car, but it will be nice to know it's there as I gradually turn up the power and beat on it at the drag strip this Winter. There are a few big power cars from this forum and elsewhere who have inquired about this product, I'm sure that once a few of them get the most out of it's capabilities it will become the common place for the higher end builds, just as it has in the Supra, Viper, Evo worlds. Tilton is the OEM clutch for the Carrera GT and even it cost twice that of the 996 setup being mentioned and doesn't include carbon discs. Piece of mind that I'll never need another clutch no matter what I throw at the car is well worth the price of admission for me, I'm sure others will feel the same.
Last edited by onelove; Jun 22, 2008 at 12:41 AM.
Our original setup weighed about 15lbs combined for both the clutch and flywheel. Tilton then added 128% more weight to the flywheel. The entire flywheel is right around 14-15lbs now, total weight still is likely under 20lbs, a significant savings over stock ,especially when you fact in the accumulator removal.




