So I have a Spec Stage 3+ Clutch and Unorthodox LWFW. Everything works great but I get that annoying sound. At first I didn't care because the performance was great and its really not even that loud but I need to switch over to something quiet as a mouse and less aggressive for the street. Everyone says "hey man your precious Porsche sounds like an old messed up car", sometimes it does. Regardless of what's said I just want something with no noise and with OEM style feel. I'm over the careful clutch engagement of on/off, it can get a little frustrating during traffic etc... I use this as my daily unless I use my truck for some reason.

Anyone with upgraded Clutch/LWFW please help me out. I'm looking for a setup that feels just like stock OEM. I was told from someone a while back that the GT3RS setup was the way to go for both no noise and swift engagement like stock TT. I've heard that some RUF setups made no noise and others did but engagement was OEM-like. I am going to do the hybrid K16 upgrade/flash with EPL soon so I don't want to go back to stock TT stuff. Thanks in advance.

My heart goes out to you brother. I may have gone overboard on the above clutch. Todd K at Proto suggested a Sachs Motorsport pp/gt2 disc with a dual mass flywheel for a closer to stock feel or the above clutch for something more bulletproof to hold his Proto 650 I just got put in. Noisy as hell on/off to the max. I am still breaking her in with est 450 miles today. Picked up car Sunday and have stalled 30-40 times in traffic. Maybe for you the first suggestion would be better. Akram my mechanic says it will break in well and eventually get more like stock and Todd says the noise will eventually die down. I have my fingers crossed. Good Luck!

UMW LWFW. To me, the up and down feels VERY oem. Only the idle noise (especially with the A/C on) is shaking springs-like. I like the sound. It is not "loud" to me. And, the drive is superb. It revs like a banshee.

My unit is not a huge HP clutch.


JB

i have the lwf with the clucth and all that good stuff for UMW , it does chatter a good bit i really dont care , and yes i to got the ...hey man something is wrong with your car ... at the stoplight ... but whatever i love the lwf.

By the nature of their design, I believe that all LWFW's are going to chatter. My car is at the shop getting the GT3RS flywheel, but I was told it would chatter, esp below 2500 rpm.

You should just get a dual mass flywheel. Call EPL or UMW and tell them your needs.

For almost stock pedal feeling and no slippage, you need clutch kit SACHS 3000 951 017 (GT3 clubsport) and 964RS flywheel

Which has the following components:

3082 213 136 PP
1878 000 802 Clutch
3151 227 001 Releaser
4200 080 060 Grease

An even stronger clamping option with almost stock feeling is SACHS racing part number 883082 999752 PP with the315122 7001 releaser. It will cover by far all your needs. Check the above with your tuner. UMW sells all the above.

My RUF LWFW/Clutch setup you could not tell wasn't stock from outside or inside, except for the revs... Worth every damn penny for a quality/OEM feel!

Based on your comments, I would recommend the Sachs 999 pressure plate, send it to Clutchmasters for additional clamp force for good measure, combine it with the Sachs race disc and a dual mass flywheel. The car will drive like stock and the clutch will hold ...no noise or chatter, whatsoever. very smooth and predictable. BTW - Tony at EPL tried it and asked what it was because he really liked it...this is what you would require, if you go this route:

1) Sachs "999" Pressure Plate, Part# 883082 752 - modified by Clutchmasters (Clutchmasters will test/verify the new increased clamp force and index the disc prior to return shipment)







2) Disc - Sachs metallic motorsports race disc (part number is on the disc pictured)




3) Dual mass flywheel (part number is on the FW pictured)

Most of the noise associated with the light weight flywheel can be significantly reduced by using the sachs or clutchmasters spring hub clutch disc. The stock disc (rigid) works with the dual mass because the dual mass flops around on it axis. The lwf is rigid and its needs a disc with 4 to 6 radial springs Sachs has and provides this disc with their lwf units. The noise will not be totallly gone but significantly improved.

regards

+1 this is what i am running and love it!!!

tim

I had a LWFW and stage??? clutch for a couple of years. The performance increase of the LWFW made up for the noise. When the clutch started to slip, I decided to try the GT2 slave conversion (or what ever the hell it's called) from EVO along with the stock dual mass flywheel. I believe it's a GT2 clutch, with no power assist, that is beefed up to handle a GT700+. At first, the spring action in the pedal felt CRAZY. After getting used to it, I can no longer drive the super mushy feeling stock clutch. It feels ridiculously empty. It took a couple of weeks to get use to the no power assist, where it took me 2 years to get used to the LWFW and super grabby clutch from IA. The EVO GT2 deal is reasonably progressive and much more easy to modulate than my prior LWFW setup. I do miss the quick revving of the LWFW, but the significantly improved drivability and zero noise pretty much make up for it. Good Luck!

I agree with Zippy on the power assist delete. I didn't want to throw too much at once, but the power assist delete really enhances the feedback from the clutch. I absolutely love it. I does feel crazy at first, after coming from the power assisted clutch, but after a day or two it begins to feel normal. I don't even notice it any longer, it just seems normal. It's nothing to be afraid of and launching the car from a stop is much more predictable and rewarding. As someone commented a few months ago - one of the best mods for the 996TT.

Kevin, Thanks for the warning, but I am not convinced of impending doom. I hope I am right. Any failed part "can" cause additional damage, but what are the chances of a failed DMF causing such damage? I had one fail in an earlier 911 and it didn't do any additional damage...

This is from the EVO site - they are stating it's good for 750HP applications:

·Stage 3· Clutch
SKU:CLU996TTL3
This is a clutch package that we developed and engineered for our "in house" 750 HP 996TT. We utilize an OEM Sachs “999” MotorSports pressure plate and increase the clamping force of the by about 500 Lbs. This high clamp force pressure plate combined with our custom designed ceramic disk will hold high horsepower applications without slipping. This system was specifically designed for use with the OEM dual mass flywheel for near stock drive-ability. This system is suitable for daily street driving and capable of handling the road course as well as the drag strip.

John

That is a perfect setup. See below a post I made a couple of weeks back in this respect, with the corresponding maximum torque numbers. These numbers are at the flywheel, and NOT as measured on the typical chassis dyno run, so don't be surprised by the low ratings, I doubt more than a handful of cars here would need any setup beyond Option A-2, while B2 is a perfect combo for 95% of them.

I have option a-2 on my 6.2 s. 60-130mph and track car with a LWFW and it works like stock.

I have something similar...what Kevin said was good for most things in the 600's....I just went with his "sachs" kit and a lwfw. He did all the work to get it all to work together. Bolts, etc. Nothing to even worry about on my end at all.

Talking to Kevin is a huge education. See his post above. Totally what I want in my tuner. He even educated my master mechanic...a race mechanic...and my mechanic was quite impressed and appreciative. All possible silly errors were avoided and I had a perfect install.

No issues. Totally stock in feel. No worries on my end. That to me is the value gained.

JB