Took the car out for a "test" spin, before i hit the track (e-town) tomorow night. unfortunately, at this point, (unless someone helps me out quickly) i wont be attending.

I had a friend in passenger seat monitoring the greddy as i hit it in 3rd and 4th. The purpose of this run was to get the boost to hit 1.3 bar exactly, or as close as possible, with the race gas in the car...to kinda get things set up for tomorow evening..

Anyway as im flooring it car boosts to maybe .8/.9. im looking at the dash and i see .8.. .9..maybe a 1.0.

Then next run same thing. my friend is reading the greddy out as im gunning 4th gear.. Nothing over 1.0! i was basically at .8 or .9 boost.

Then i got the windows up so i can "hear" the equipment work.
all sounds well. it is obvious the car is slower.... also greddy and oem boost guage were somewhat close with readings so we can rule them out as faulty.

Also NO dash lights on... no check engine, no abs/psm..etc.. no errors whatsoever. I did around 10 runs in 4th gear and all never eclipsed .9ish boost.
Car sounds ok...just felt slower (as in 100 HP slower). i played with the greddy to add abit more/reduce boost but it really didnt affect the outcome..
whats going on??? any insight would be much appreciated.


UPDATE: problem fixed. BAD F-HOSE. RPM NORTH THANKS FOR DIAGNOSING AND TAKING CARE OF ISSUE!!!

 

when you say take a crap on you.. what exactly did they do? how did it affect the car.

 

boost leak..may be from f hose...could be loose clamp.. pressure test the system.. ill hit you up later gotta go

 

I have also had the same thing happen, all checked out with the car and it ended up being a problem with the Greddy.

 

If you still have internal waste gates check to be sure both waste gate actuator rods are intact. If you're only running on 1 turbo you will get that scenario and if you've broken a rod, you will be on 1. In the past, I broke many and only once did I get a CEL (don't even remember what code) but boost would go from 1.5 to 1.1. My turbos are larger than yours but approximately the same differential when I went from 2 to 1.

 

Sorry to hear that, why don't you have us check it out and maybe you can still get to the track.

 

just confirming when you both had the greddy go bad on you, were you troubled by exactly same symptoms? ie. car running 20 pct slower, boosting .3/.4 less?

norton, im running internal wastegates, the ones proto upgrades with the 24/18g package... ill check them now..

dmaffo ill give you a call...

rpm thanks i might just do that ill keep in touch.

any other possibilities?

 

you need to scan for codes....your ecu will retain codes without any dash indicators lighting up. Since I put a free flowing exhaust on I every once in awhile will get code P0234 which is overboost condition. At that point .7 to .8 is max boost untill I reset this code which takes it back to 1.2 bar. I've seen it peak at 1.3 bar. Tony will be remaping my ecu later this month with a custom dyno tune which at time will readjust wastegates accordingly through the ecu. Go scan for codes.

 

yes but mine the one time was the boost hose to the controller popped off.

 

the reason i did not used greddy was that i had to route vacuum in the car...totally stupid.Vacuum is not a cable and depending upon pressure through firewall passing it can lead to wrong indications...if you press a hose you raise his pressure but the pressure in the engine the same,so wrong reading.Thats why i bought apex-i...It is very difficult to be adjusted but has no vacuum lines inside the car and amazing capabilities...however,its wiring should be lenghteded in order to install it somewhere in the dash.With stock harness it reaches armrest.

 

ok..ill check the vacum hose going into the greddy.. just got off the phone with dmaffo and he said thats what exactly happend to him.. so ill give it a shot..

i actually just had it re-routed to the front of the car..recently.. so maybe something popped off...

will keep you guys posted

 

funny i never had a problem with my pfofec b , and i know alot of the high hp guys are running it also . if todd k recomends it then im fine with it.

 

i had the same problem.

 

There have been some problems with the Greddy. Marty had a failure, too. I am still on my original without any issues, but it's an electronic part and can fail...

I did have the connection at the FPR "T" pop off the first week and that caused the reading to go to "0". I wire tied it good and that was it...it has held up fine.

 

I was just going to say what john said, if it read's 0 on the greddy then pull the line off in the motor that leads to the greddy that will tell you it its off in the car or off on the manifold. Where did u tap for the greddy?

Chris Green