Brake Fluid Change-Out
Hi,
I'm going to replace my brake fluid with either ATE Blue, or Motul 600. Can someone tell me how many bottles I will need (or rather, the total # of liters or quarts) to completely flush out the stock fluid with a new one ?
Also... can someone tell me the corner sequence in which to bleed out the fluid ?
I think the brake master cylinder is left front (driver's front side), so I'm guessing that one gets bled last.
Thanks,
Andy
I'm going to replace my brake fluid with either ATE Blue, or Motul 600. Can someone tell me how many bottles I will need (or rather, the total # of liters or quarts) to completely flush out the stock fluid with a new one ?
Also... can someone tell me the corner sequence in which to bleed out the fluid ?
I think the brake master cylinder is left front (driver's front side), so I'm guessing that one gets bled last.
Thanks,
Andy
I'd get three or possibly four bottles just to be safe. Always bleed the caliper furthest away from the master cylinder first. So the sequence is Passenger Rear, Driver Rear, Passenger Front and Driver Front. Of course, make sure not to get any brake fluid on your paint, because brake fluid will remove your paint. While you're at it you might want to upgrade to stainless steel brake lines. I did mine and the pedal feel is MUCH better/firmer. You can order the lines and brake fluid from www.stoptech.com.
Thanks for the information. Just for my information, do you know what the 'capacity' of the system is ? given this is a complete change-out with a different fluid, I will be conservative and probably waste some. But on a better day, when I'm just replacing, what is the capacity of the system ?
So, nothing special about the porsche ? Traditional farthest from Master Cylinder to last being the one closest ?
Thanks,
Andy
So, nothing special about the porsche ? Traditional farthest from Master Cylinder to last being the one closest ?
Thanks,
Andy
I've got a hand bleeder and I've used it on some of my cars and it works on some, but not others. Often, I just have a bunch of friends over and they lend a 'leg' :-). I worry sometimes about cavitation in hoses when it creates a vacuum in the lines that might be "too" strong. So, I revert to the 'old school' method often times. Just like I haven't been brave enough to use speed-bleeder valves. :-).
Since I'm not going to the track this weekend (;-)), I'll probably change out my oil and brake fluid... at least that's the intent,... OR... I'll see if I can convince someone to come for an early morning drive and then a cruise around the bay area on Sunday. (for the last few weeks, I've been getting up at around 5-6 am and going for a drive through the mountains for about an hour or so, just for the 'fun' of it ;-). And then be back home in time (well, most of the time) before the kids wake up, and the wife doesn't have any gripes! ;-)
Since I'm not going to the track this weekend (;-)), I'll probably change out my oil and brake fluid... at least that's the intent,... OR... I'll see if I can convince someone to come for an early morning drive and then a cruise around the bay area on Sunday. (for the last few weeks, I've been getting up at around 5-6 am and going for a drive through the mountains for about an hour or so, just for the 'fun' of it ;-). And then be back home in time (well, most of the time) before the kids wake up, and the wife doesn't have any gripes! ;-)
one bottle 1/2 liter should do it. if you really wnat to be sure 1 liter is more than plenty.
where abouts you drive that early weekend morning?
where abouts you drive that early weekend morning?
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Thanks. I vary my route, but my favorites are the usual, Skyline, 35, 9, 84, 1, and all those little mis-mash of roads in the mountains. On rare occasions, I'll do a run up Mt. Hamilton... .and it's been ages since I've gone up Mt. Diablo. For the late morning stuff... I just drive anywhere I haven't been for a while. The early morning is where I want no-low traffic out on the roads, not even the cyclists. Crisp cool early morning air .... the only thing I've noticed lately,... is a lot of 'fog' this year. Especially on the coast.
Andy, we are having a going away party for a local BAR guy. We are probably going to have a drive before or after the BBQ on Saturday. I guess a drive Sunday is doable too now that I'm not going to a track day.
mooty will know, he has a 996.
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/BayAreaRennGroup/
mooty will know, he has a 996.
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/BayAreaRennGroup/
Originally posted by mooty
one bottle 1/2 liter should do it. if you really wnat to be sure 1 liter is more than plenty.
where abouts you drive that early weekend morning?
one bottle 1/2 liter should do it. if you really wnat to be sure 1 liter is more than plenty.
where abouts you drive that early weekend morning?
As for doing it with a 1/2 liter (which is slightly more than a pint), I think that's being way too optimistic.
Our local Porsche group has a work on cars day in San Jose every few weeks. We use the Motive. I tell people to get a 1 liter can. We can do 4 brakes and the clutch and still have some left over. If this is your first time better get 2 cans. Come by if you need help.
Most of the owners use Ate and you can see Ate blue in my picture. Motul is also good but I do not know where you can buy if off the shelf.
Most of the owners use Ate and you can see Ate blue in my picture. Motul is also good but I do not know where you can buy if off the shelf.
You might also try a motorcycle shop.
I just looked at the specs for brake fluids for their dry boiling points and it is interesting.
The factory stuff is 500. ATE is 536. Ford is 550. Motul is 593. These are dry boiling points. The Ford Heavy Duty is not DOT 4 because it's wet boiling point does not meet DOT4 specs, but the dry meets DOT 4.
I just looked at the specs for brake fluids for their dry boiling points and it is interesting.
The factory stuff is 500. ATE is 536. Ford is 550. Motul is 593. These are dry boiling points. The Ford Heavy Duty is not DOT 4 because it's wet boiling point does not meet DOT4 specs, but the dry meets DOT 4.
PS2 brake bleed
There is no way to bleed the brakes properly on a PSM-equipped Porsche without using the Porsche PS2 computer/system tester. You'll get away with it if air has not been introduced into the system. If you boil your fluid, or have changed brake lines, you had better bring your car to someone who knows how to do this and has the right equipment. AFTER a conventional brake bleed, starting at the right rear caliper and finishing on the left front, has been completed, the PS2 procedure should be done. The fluid will pump out of the right front caliper like a fire hose during this procedure, and will eliminate air from the entire ABS system. It's all in the factory manual.
BTW, wet boiling point is far more important to look at than dry bp.
Sol
www.perfectpowerinc.com
BTW, wet boiling point is far more important to look at than dry bp.
Sol
www.perfectpowerinc.com




