996TT to 996 GT2
I couldn't agree with Tom more on this subject.
Go over to rennlist and search on video by LVDell and see him running 2:03s and 2:04s at VIR trying to keep pace with 930Man in his modded GT2. He laps for several laps straight in that range before losing concentration and falling off, but he's in a GT3 street car with mods to the suspension and tranny gearing... THAT is the difference in any car, the DRIVER.
When I bought my 996TT I felt I actually got slower, because I was going "FAST" in all the wrong spots... took the first season of tracking to start "getting it"... The second season was VERY telling in a number of ways...
More HP doesn't help when learning...
Mike
Go over to rennlist and search on video by LVDell and see him running 2:03s and 2:04s at VIR trying to keep pace with 930Man in his modded GT2. He laps for several laps straight in that range before losing concentration and falling off, but he's in a GT3 street car with mods to the suspension and tranny gearing... THAT is the difference in any car, the DRIVER.
When I bought my 996TT I felt I actually got slower, because I was going "FAST" in all the wrong spots... took the first season of tracking to start "getting it"... The second season was VERY telling in a number of ways...
More HP doesn't help when learning...
Mike
Yep, more power does not help lap times. And what I respect is lap times, not the carbon fibre interior or the shiny wheels or the huge dyno numbers 
I have no idea where people use these 800hp, 900hp, 1000hp etc. etc. unless it is drag strip, airfield drive or web forum bragging....
(Still a lot of respect for those cars, would love to drive or own....)
More info about these track set-ups please!
And about the cooking problem...
Got a modified a 996TT extensively and who knows what next...because most of the time it sees track.
I would also like to hear how people have done the RWD conversion, how much setupping has it included and what has been the difference in speed. I've got a great LSD but at the moment keeping it 4WD because I don't see the 4WD system slowing me down (it is the weight that is)
I know I can use search but don't think all writers who have an opinion to this have done great lap times themselves (= I appreciate facts)

I have no idea where people use these 800hp, 900hp, 1000hp etc. etc. unless it is drag strip, airfield drive or web forum bragging....
(Still a lot of respect for those cars, would love to drive or own....)Damn Tom looks like a little photoshop and we have the same car. I love the R888's.
Let me know if you would like to share set-up info. We played with my car alot. From cup team buddies with moton engineers to good old willow springs chasing cup cars. We can be faster but after about 6-7 laps the car just cooks. Cup cars weigh from 500-900lbs less helping them in the long run. I learnes lots about what set-up the car likes so let me know and I will share anytime with any 6-speeders.
Good luck Scary!
Let me know if you would like to share set-up info. We played with my car alot. From cup team buddies with moton engineers to good old willow springs chasing cup cars. We can be faster but after about 6-7 laps the car just cooks. Cup cars weigh from 500-900lbs less helping them in the long run. I learnes lots about what set-up the car likes so let me know and I will share anytime with any 6-speeders.
Good luck Scary!
And about the cooking problem...Got a modified a 996TT extensively and who knows what next...because most of the time it sees track.
I would also like to hear how people have done the RWD conversion, how much setupping has it included and what has been the difference in speed. I've got a great LSD but at the moment keeping it 4WD because I don't see the 4WD system slowing me down (it is the weight that is)
I know I can use search but don't think all writers who have an opinion to this have done great lap times themselves (= I appreciate facts)
Damn Tom looks like a little photoshop and we have the same car. I love the R888's.
Let me know if you would like to share set-up info. We played with my car alot. From cup team buddies with moton engineers to good old willow springs chasing cup cars. We can be faster but after about 6-7 laps the car just cooks. Cup cars weigh from 500-900lbs less helping them in the long run. I learnes lots about what set-up the car likes so let me know and I will share anytime with any 6-speeders.
Good luck Scary!
Let me know if you would like to share set-up info. We played with my car alot. From cup team buddies with moton engineers to good old willow springs chasing cup cars. We can be faster but after about 6-7 laps the car just cooks. Cup cars weigh from 500-900lbs less helping them in the long run. I learnes lots about what set-up the car likes so let me know and I will share anytime with any 6-speeders.
Good luck Scary!
Mike in regards to the hp thing you are correct...momentum is more important than powering up and braking. It is fun having that power though. You just have to be even smoother and belnd the transitions better.
Kaizu in short cup cars are light and have very little suspension travel. The turbo is heavier and punishes the brakes and tires more. Secondly the suspension will tend to move more like a heave-ho way with all that weight and power. Makes it difficult to be smoothe. You need even firmer bushings and more aggressive alignment specs. A stock 2800lb turbo would be quicker and last more laps than my 3200lb 700hp car if driven well. But hp is fun! you should get a ride or try to drive a cup car to see that go cart feel. then you have to adjust to the turbo.
With the 2wd I would wait till you get quick lap times and maybe then do it. Also because you need to change spring rates and front wheel carriers. (the turbo wheel carriers have 4wd geometry)
Try this alignment:
-3 camber front
-2.5 camber rear
.05 tow in front
.35 tow in rear
On the average 600hp coilover car it works great. You will need at-least front gt-2 lower cont arms with 12-17mm shims.
Kaizu in short cup cars are light and have very little suspension travel. The turbo is heavier and punishes the brakes and tires more. Secondly the suspension will tend to move more like a heave-ho way with all that weight and power. Makes it difficult to be smoothe. You need even firmer bushings and more aggressive alignment specs. A stock 2800lb turbo would be quicker and last more laps than my 3200lb 700hp car if driven well. But hp is fun! you should get a ride or try to drive a cup car to see that go cart feel. then you have to adjust to the turbo.
With the 2wd I would wait till you get quick lap times and maybe then do it. Also because you need to change spring rates and front wheel carriers. (the turbo wheel carriers have 4wd geometry)
Try this alignment:
-3 camber front
-2.5 camber rear
.05 tow in front
.35 tow in rear
On the average 600hp coilover car it works great. You will need at-least front gt-2 lower cont arms with 12-17mm shims.
Last edited by SamboTT@ByDesign; Sep 30, 2008 at 12:28 PM.
Mike in regards to the hp thing you are correct...momentum is more important than powering up and braking. It is fun having that power though. You just have to be even smoother and belnd the transitions better.
Kaizu in short cup cars are light and have very little suspension travel. The turbo is heavier and punishes the brakes and tires more. Secondly the suspension will tend to move more like a heave-ho way with all that weight and power. Makes it difficult to be smoothe. You need even firmer bushings and more aggressive alignment specs. A stock 2800lb turbo would be quicker and last more laps than my 3200lb 700hp car if driven well. But hp is fun! you should get a ride or try to drive a cup car to see that go cart feel. then you have to adjust to the turbo.
With the 2wd I would wait till you get quick lap times and maybe then do it. Also because you need to change spring rates and front wheel carriers. (the turbo wheel carriers have 4wd geometry)
Try this alignment:
-3 camber front
-2.5 camber rear
.05 tow in front
.35 tow in rear
On the average 600hp coilover car it works great. You will need at-least front gt-2 lower cont arms with 12-17mm shims.
Kaizu in short cup cars are light and have very little suspension travel. The turbo is heavier and punishes the brakes and tires more. Secondly the suspension will tend to move more like a heave-ho way with all that weight and power. Makes it difficult to be smoothe. You need even firmer bushings and more aggressive alignment specs. A stock 2800lb turbo would be quicker and last more laps than my 3200lb 700hp car if driven well. But hp is fun! you should get a ride or try to drive a cup car to see that go cart feel. then you have to adjust to the turbo.
With the 2wd I would wait till you get quick lap times and maybe then do it. Also because you need to change spring rates and front wheel carriers. (the turbo wheel carriers have 4wd geometry)
Try this alignment:
-3 camber front
-2.5 camber rear
.05 tow in front
.35 tow in rear
On the average 600hp coilover car it works great. You will need at-least front gt-2 lower cont arms with 12-17mm shims.
And about 2wd, I'm satisfied with my times (last trip to Ring I did a 7.51.2 Nordschleife BTG in normal traffic and a speed-limited road work from Miss-Hit-Miss to Wehrseifen...) and was wondering are the other Turbo track drivers gone to 2wd because of weight saving and/or more precise handling...You have 4wd or 2wd? (Like I said, I'm happy with 4WD+LSD...)
Great lap time. I have 4wd. 2wd is only 70-90lbs lighter, Puts more pressure on the rear tires. 2wd is more nimble and also harder to drive with high hp. Don't get me wrong I love to drift and have fun with a GT-2...But when going for a lap time it's stressfull. I think the 4wd vs 2wd will be a long lived argument. You should be able to turn-in fine with a set up 4wd. Only change it if it feels like a problem in my opinion.
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