Suspension Setup - need input
Suspension Setup - need input
My car is at the shop today getting the JIC Suspension installed (thanks Sharky) and the very hard to get GT3 swaybars (thanks Stephen).
I want the car to be neutral in the corners. I already have toe & camber specs, but need to know how I should setup the:
1> GT3 Swaybars (what holes to use)
2> JIC coilovers (dampening settings)
thanks in advance
Mike
I want the car to be neutral in the corners. I already have toe & camber specs, but need to know how I should setup the:
1> GT3 Swaybars (what holes to use)
2> JIC coilovers (dampening settings)
thanks in advance
Mike
Each car is a little different, i.e., if you run 225 fronts and 315 rears you'll have understeer no matter what you do..Now with 235 fronts and 295 rears it will be more neutral..Generally these cars push so you want the rear stiffer and the front softer to dial out some of the inherent understeer..Most go a few clicks softer up front than the rears with JIC's and go from there. Start with the front bars almost full soft and the rear bar almost full stiff. Depends on the tires and the driving style also usually..
all these setting are very dependent on your cornerweights. Adjusting the JIC's dampening adjusts the rate of weight transfer, as does tweaking the bar...so it is importantant to have your corner weights dialed in to begin with and then adjust from there.
-dave w
-dave w
The wheel/tire sizing is stock. Driving style would be considered aggressive street with occasional track. Car has been corner balance with stock front / rear weight distribution (40/60).
Thanks for the input, I was hoping to get some idea of what holes to be using on the swaybars. (as a starting point)
Thanks, Mike
Thanks for the input, I was hoping to get some idea of what holes to be using on the swaybars. (as a starting point)
Thanks, Mike
That Depends
The settings depend on your abilities and driving style. I doubt you will get it perfect the first time try different settings and use the same exact course to check it. Thats why it's called Tuning it never ends.
I like them in closest holes to the bar.
I like them in closest holes to the bar.
I am using the GT-3 bars with a Moton/ERP suspension setup. I am also still working out the best setup, but with the current alignment specs I am using I actually find that running the rear bar full stiff and the front bar one hole from full stiff seems best...however I still have understeer once I get back on the power mid-corner in fast sweepers. I know it is counterintuitive to run that much front bar when trying to dial out understeer...but things do not always work as they should. I am going to increase the front neg. camber from around 1 degree to around 1.7 degree this coming week.
As an aside, I really want to find out the bump steer and roll steer characteristics of these cars. Has anyone really analyzed this?
As an aside, I really want to find out the bump steer and roll steer characteristics of these cars. Has anyone really analyzed this?
Thanks for all your input. After your helpful hints allong with some comments from Stephen Kasper - I'm going like this:
Front bar - middle hole
Rear bar - full stiff
Front shock - 5
Rear shock - 10
Mike
Front bar - middle hole
Rear bar - full stiff
Front shock - 5
Rear shock - 10
Mike
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Originally posted by JC996TT
seems like to much of a diffence front to back but play with it and let us know how it feels.
seems like to much of a diffence front to back but play with it and let us know how it feels.
Mike
I had my bars set up this way at first. Decided to stiffen the front bar one more notch to sharpen up the mid corner response and reduce the feeling of wallowing from the front. I am actually hoping to return to the softer front bar setting this next week when I increase the front neg. camber from 1 degree to 1.7 degrees.
Here's the specks I used for the new JIC suspension:
Rear Axle:
Camber: -1.50 degrees +/- .10 degrees
Toe: +08' +/- 05' Total Toe: +16' +/- 10' axle angle: 0' +/- 10'
Front Axle:
Caster: +8 degrees +/- 3 degrees
Camber: -1 Degree +/- .10 degrees
Toe: +03' +/- 03' Total Toe: +05' +/1 05'
The car felt very neutral at the track last weekend. One thing I have noticed was some CLUNKING, particularly during slow speed cornering. I just picked her up from the dealership to make sure the bolts were all torqued correctly and the mechanic noted that:
"The front (GT3) sway bar links rubbed against drive shaft when turning"
I was under the impression that this situation did not occur with the adjustable drop links that come with the JIC Suspension?
Any comments?
Mike
Rear Axle:
Camber: -1.50 degrees +/- .10 degrees
Toe: +08' +/- 05' Total Toe: +16' +/- 10' axle angle: 0' +/- 10'
Front Axle:
Caster: +8 degrees +/- 3 degrees
Camber: -1 Degree +/- .10 degrees
Toe: +03' +/- 03' Total Toe: +05' +/1 05'
The car felt very neutral at the track last weekend. One thing I have noticed was some CLUNKING, particularly during slow speed cornering. I just picked her up from the dealership to make sure the bolts were all torqued correctly and the mechanic noted that:
"The front (GT3) sway bar links rubbed against drive shaft when turning"
I was under the impression that this situation did not occur with the adjustable drop links that come with the JIC Suspension?
Any comments?
Mike
Heya Mike,
Which hole are you using on the front sway bar? The middle one should be fine? Otherwise you'll need curved ones
PS Your hoses should be in yer' hands soon
Call me and I'll give you some tips when installing...
Which hole are you using on the front sway bar? The middle one should be fine? Otherwise you'll need curved ones

PS Your hoses should be in yer' hands soon
Call me and I'll give you some tips when installing...
Mmmm... That's odd the setting I used with straight ones was the middle in the front and second firmest in the rear
Go back one or two holes temporarily, I'll see if I don't/can't get a spare set of curved fronts for ya...
Go back one or two holes temporarily, I'll see if I don't/can't get a spare set of curved fronts for ya...




