996 Turbo / GT2 Turbo discussion on previous model 2000-2005 Porsche 911 Twin Turbo and 911 GT2.

Custom programming vs preprogrammed?

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Old Sep 13, 2003 | 01:17 PM
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Custom programming vs preprogrammed?

Hi. For a stock 996tt, how much more would one get
by dynoing, getting the A/F info, and having a chip
programmed to that data, as opposed to simply sending
the stock chip for a stage I/II programming?
I guess the question is 'how variable are different stock
cars?". If they are 99.9% identical, then a single 'stage I'
program would be perfect for all stock cars.
My motivation is to save the money and trouble of
arranging a dyno run if it's not going to buy me any real
benefit.
Thanks in advance,
Joe
 
Old Sep 13, 2003 | 08:29 PM
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REAL GOOD QUESTION. I have the same question. I got an e-mail from the General Manager from Unichip. It reads in part:
"We're just about to release a Plug-n-Play harness for your car which will allow you to install it in your garage and remove it in just a few minutes for any trips to the dealer."

If the Plug-n-Play is 90% as good without the dyno work, I think this would be a great deal. I like the idea that it can be removed my me at any time (eg. before going to the Dealer for service.) He said that the Plug-n-Play can be dyno programmed for an added cost.
 
Old Sep 13, 2003 | 09:32 PM
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Hi Joe -

From what I understand, there are a few extra ponies to be had from a custom program. However, nothing that you could feel from the seat of the pants. The only way in which it would likely be worthwhile is if it were for a race car - where every incremental improvement can be the difference between a podium finish and an also ran...

I also don't think that the Unichip is necessarily the way to go. It is definitely dated technology and, even with a custom program, is not likely to be as effective as one of the more sophisticated tuner programs.
 
Old Sep 13, 2003 | 09:50 PM
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If you are satisfied with certain power restrictions, then the canned programs are fine. As time goes on the canned programs are becoming better and better. In most cases these programs are just fine. If you want to exceed what they have to offer then you have to go with the custom programs.

In my case I have to disagree that anyone couldn't feel the difference. As the different modes are dialed in (especially the two upper modes), it can walk away from any canned program presently available.
 

Last edited by cjv; Sep 13, 2003 at 09:56 PM.
Old Sep 13, 2003 | 10:07 PM
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GIAC is the way to go IMO....I am getting mine back on Tuesday with the optional IBE chipswitch..
Chad - I was wondering how many programs you have on your ECU and how do you switch between them?? I ask becuase initially GIAC's IBE switch was supposed to have 5 programs (stock +4) but the final release only has stock + 2....
 
Old Sep 13, 2003 | 10:12 PM
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msindi,

I have four modes:
#1 is 526 rwhp @ 1.0 bar
#2 is 614 rwhp @ 1.2 bar
#3 is 631 rwhp @ 1.2 bar and liquid CO2
#4 is 681 rwhp @ 1.2 bar, liquid CO2 and N2O
 

Last edited by cjv; Sep 14, 2003 at 07:03 AM.
Old Sep 13, 2003 | 10:34 PM
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Msindi,
I wasn't awae the chipswitch was available yet.

Chad,
That is just WAY cool! How do you switch between modes?
 
Old Sep 13, 2003 | 11:02 PM
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Chad - I wanted more of the technical details on how you switch between modes....Also, how many additional EPROMs are in your ECU box?? I think GIAC runs 2 programs per additional chip.
Ken - The IBE is not out yet but Garrett Lim himself was writing the at the German Auto Fest in CA ths past weekend...I only got the IBE for the purpose of keeping the stock program (easier than having 2 ECUs!!) - 100 octane is hard to find here (illegal in MA so gotts drive 40 miles to NH!!) so I doubt I will makee much use of that. Only other options were level 3 (doubt id switch to 550 when i have 600) or valet (i dont let anyone drive my car!!)
 
Old Sep 13, 2003 | 11:40 PM
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Originally posted by cjv
In my case I have to disagree that anyone couldn't feel the difference. As the different modes are dialed in (especially the two upper modes), it can walk away from any canned program presently available.
As much as you put into it, I hope you feel the difference!

But, all kidding aside, for a stage 1 or 2 application like Joe was talking about, I don't think most people's posteriers are that sensitive.

I can feel slight changes in tire pressure, tires going off slightly, suspension settings not working right, etc. But, I can't feel +/-10 ponies in a 500 HP car. (In a 100 HP car, maybe so...) That said, on a race track, I can see 10 ponies at the end of the straight even in a 500 HP car.
 
Old Sep 14, 2003 | 03:37 AM
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I've ridden in a few modded cars with different software and I don't know how Mista' Lim does it but his boost maps kick some serious butt. And the AFRs seem to be nicely balanced at low 12s... I think that's really neat for 550 or so rwhp cars. Sure you could eke out more maybe but as far as the canned stuff goes, damn all the GIAC cars I've ridden in (993TT and 996TT) seem to be great out of the box.
 
Old Sep 14, 2003 | 03:37 AM
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I've ridden in a few modded cars with different software and I don't know how Mista' Lim does it but his boost maps kick some serious butt. And the AFRs seem to be nicely balanced at low 12s... I think that's really neat for 550 or so rwhp cars. Sure you could eke out more maybe but as far as the canned stuff goes, damn all the GIAC cars I've ridden in (993TT and 996TT) seem to be great out of the box.
 
Old Sep 14, 2003 | 07:01 AM
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msindi, KPV

Presently I use the stock ECU which has been modified by Protomotive. I use a Greedy adaptive boost controller which I can set for any two boost levels desired. Presently using 1.0 and 1.2 bar. The turbo's have the ability to produce 1.7 bar. These settings can be changed at the push of a button on the fly. I believe for the two particular bar settings being used, S Car Go Racing is producing more power than anyone. Others are close but they use more boost to get a little less power. The CO2 system has an activation button, if off, then it will not activate, if on, it will only activate on wide open throttle. The N2O system has an activation button also, when the button is activated, it will spray only when all the following conditions are met:

1) Fuel pressure to the NOS plume must be a minimum of 40 psi. If not the Nitrous will automatically be disengagued.

2) The rpm's must be above 3000 rpm's. The system is set to engage at 4400 rpm's and disengage at 6600 rpm's. It comes on at about 10 hp/torque increase and pulses up to 75 hp/torque. I can program how much and how quickly in comes on and in what power increaments.

3) System will not engauge unless all the above criteria is met in addition to wide open throttle.

If the system is not actuated, then it does not come on at all. All four of the mods can be armed instantly and on the fly. Note, the full on power of the NOS system is based on the jets sizing used. The system comes with 35, 50 and 75 hp stage increases. These must be manually changed. What it means is you can add any one of these jets and then bring the power on all at once or pulse it on in the power increaments you choose and over the rpm range you choose.

Hope this explains what you wanted to know.
 

Last edited by cjv; Sep 14, 2003 at 07:05 AM.
Old Sep 14, 2003 | 07:19 AM
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sharkster,

You have ridden in my car when it was tuned for 614 rwhp and you have ridden in "a few modded cars." How do you compare the experiences?

Regarding set up, you really need to read A. Graham Bell's book. The low 12's compared to mid 12's to very low 13's in the AFR's are simply two school's of thought. Most of what you hear on the boards about the differences in this thought is salesmanship to one degree or another. That is my opinion after reading three of Bell's books. Bell has far more hands on experience than anyone I know or anyone I have heard about. He does an excellent job of explaining the above and much more in very unbaised terms.
 

Last edited by cjv; Sep 14, 2003 at 07:23 AM.
Old Sep 14, 2003 | 09:16 AM
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Most of what you hear on the boards about the differences in this thought is salesmanship to one degree or another
I have to respectfully disagree. The AFR differences has nothing to do with salesmanship. As I have said before the tuning must fit the application. Not everything can be taken from a book. The original factory AFRs are low 12s therefore someone at Porsche feels this is a safe range for longevity and daily driving. There is a middle road when it comes to use verses HP. Not all systems and real time use makes the most HP at 13 verses mid 12s. Each setup varies. In all reality the goal is the over all HP and TQ curves. If those can be satisfied and we can build in a little cushion with the AFRs then the goal has been reached.
 
Old Sep 14, 2003 | 10:07 AM
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Stephen,

Have you read Bell's book before you disagree? The "salesmanship" part refers to the position of one side is right and the other side is wrong. That thought pattern is plain wrong. Scare tactics like, " you are NOT safe and you are going to blow your motor with 12.7 to 13.1 afr's is way off base. The 996tt motor has been around for three years now. Show me one instance where this afr has lead to a motor destruction.
 

Last edited by cjv; Sep 14, 2003 at 10:14 AM.


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