Just needed to feel some love today....I authorized my dealer to pull the motor to find a coolant leak. They said they removed the intake manifold and everything else from the block, but couldn't find the source of the leak.

Ouch. $$

Originally they thought it was a bad cap and replaced that. But 2 days later, the leak spilled onto my garage floor again.

 

Alot of times the actual over flow coolant tank gets leaks in the bottom of them.

 

01 Turbo,

Probably the coolant tank like ole Walnuts "says"
I replaced mine when I had my motor out because it is so laborious otherwise.
The coolant tank should be bright white but when it gets old it gets yellow and brittle
and has a tendancy to leak. $125 part (max) and $LOTS$ labor.

good luck,

MK

 

replace coil packs and plugs while it is out as well as diverter valves

MK

 

^^^ and rear main seal (mine is now leaking...damn)

 

So this is probably my coolant overflow tank which can only be replaced by pulling the motor??? What were the engineers thinking? (Sigh)

Just did coilpacks and plugs 5k miles ago, but I will call about the rear main seal.

Thanks for the support guys

 

RMS == easy with motor out == no brainer as they also tend to leak with age.
I will do mine with the clutch.

 

Are you sure its the rms? I've been told this is pretty rare of turbos. I had a leak above the rear main seal that made it look like the rms was leaking. Turned out to be a leak from an o-ring related to the oil breather system. Good luck.

 

I had the oil cooler radiator fitting fail and it required removing the engine...it's in the middle of everything...

 

Hmm. We've diagnosed lots of coolant leakages in NA and TT 996's but can't remember having had to R&R the motor to do so. Usually a pressure test and some close inspection will turn up the loss. Besides that, the oe coolant if it has been leaking for a little while will leave a powderey and/or crusty residue after it dries or is heated by the motor. Coolant reservoir leakages are very common as has been noted above-have one on the lift right now actually- they crack on the backside where it buts up against the inner fender and can be difficult to spot at times. The updated units have extra ribbing in the weak area. It's a pain to replace but the engine doesn't need to come out.

 

Do tell... what does need to move, etc to get at the coolant tank? How many hours?

thx

A

 

The oil cooler that failed in my instance is located behind the oil tank near the top of the motor against the firewall. It has tightly pressed in tubes for inlet and outlet of the coolant that should never come loose. One of my tubes became loose over time and began leaking. The entire piece had to be replaced. You can see the side with the missing aluminum tube below - it came right out and stayed in the hose - it loosened that much. There is no way to easily access this part. In order to remove it, not only did the motor have to come out, but the entire top of the motor had to be stripped. It was a big job for a simple leak. This was probably one of the worst possible points for a coolant leak to develop...

 

This is what I would inexpensive PM

 

2 days no word....hope its just taking them a while to get to the inexpensive coolant overflow tank.

Ironically. My garbage disposal failed today and while the plumber was replacing it, the pipe underneath the sink cracked. What's with my water karma????

 

i dont belive it should be that time consuming