So Wes what do you think stage 2 or 3 clutch?

 

Since this thread has begun to ask about other power levels, I'll add a similar question I have:

Is a clutch upgrade required for an X50/K24 car with Software? I think most tuners advertise that around 575HP (crank), IIRC. Car would be primarily daily driver, but may see a road course or drag strip once a year. Would definitely be seeing full throttle around town

Perhaps the first question I should be asking is whether the clutch is the same in an X50 and non-X50 car - I believe it is.

 

Stage 3 if you're going K24/18G. Eventually you'll want to turn up the boost and on race gas you'll likely be making 580-600rwhp which is where I feel the 3 is required.

That being said if you're going to frequently drag race, street race, or track the car I think a triple carbon clutch is a good insurance policy. It takes a bit of getting used to but will hold everything and then some.

 

Sorry to bring this thread back..
but if I get the tilton clutch.. do I have to do the gt2 hydraulic conversion?
Or can I leave my current slave and accumulator in?
Also, does the tilton chatter?
I want something with a light pedal feel and no chatter.

 

Tilton will get rid of the current slave and accumulator. The way the Tilton works, the release bearing assembly is located on the clutch pack itself, so you loose the factory slave and accumlator in the process. As a result you convert your system to a Dot3 Fluid and need a new master cylinder (GT2) as Pentosin will swell a Dot3 rubber seal.

The pedal feel is very light for the torque capacity the clutch offers. It's not as light as the factory clutch with the accumulator as it doesn't have the pressure assist, however the clutch is still very light and easy to modulate. By removing the accumulator and converting to Dot3 you get a clutch that is much more consistent feeling, and can easily be modulated/slipped.

The only real downsides are chatter and cost, the chatter is very similar to switching to a lightweight flywheel setup, however it's something that most easily get used to and often look past knowing they can drive/ launchg their car as hard as they want. The original design with light flywheel was definately more difficult to drive, however through a few design revisions we where able to get a clutch that can hold the power/torque of any 996tt out there (unless someone has surpassed 1250-1400tq at which point a quad would be in order) all while remaining very streetable and reliable.

 

On the CM Stage 3 and 4, removing the spring assist at the pedal greatly improves drivability and slippability of these clutches. Before removing the spring assist, my car was almost unbearable. Now it's almost as easy as driving a stock clutch

Justin

 

Anyone have instructions on removing the spring assist?

 

I removed the assist spring in my yellow car and noticed a considerable difference as well. Camo car haven't felt like crawling under the dash to do this yet but you just reminded me that I need to do it.

 

Contort your body into positions you didn't know were possible to shoehorn your head facing up underneath your dash. Follow the pedal up and look at the actuation mechanism. You will see a helper spring(and tube) connected to the pedal and the pedal mount. That is the piece you want to remove. I think you can just pop a pin off and it will come out in 2 pieces.... watch your eyes though, it can come out with some force. Mine was painted black and the spring contained inside.

Justin

 

Hey Wes, will taking the spring out make taking off in 1st a lot smoother. Right now I'm not real smooth with my Turbo but I have never had problems with any of the other manual cars I've had/driven.

 

Don't get the LWFW. It's hard to modulate in bumper to bumper traffic and is worse for hard launches. Trust me I just did it.

John@speedtech has the 411 on the sweet setup. Ping him. You order a specific Sachs pressure plate and have it fortified by clutchmasters for more clamping force (fulcrum mod).

http://gallery.rennlist.com/gallery/...asters-upgrade

 

It's not a Honda Civic, but I don't think it's that hard.

 

I don't think he means "pedal pressure", I think he means it lets up high and it's only got about a 1/2" of actuation, like me. It doesn't slip out well.

 

I am also getting worried about the dd characteristics of the ATS triple. I am 350 mile into breaking it in and it is still very on/off. It is getting better and I am hoping that the biting point will expand after 800 mile or so. Break in is a pain to understate its process. But I am told that with track time and over 660 HP at the wheels and a 25 hour labor charge by dealers to change a clutch, the triple is the only way to go. It might be worth considering the trade offs of a triple vs a clutch replacement every 10K. Will keep board posted at 800 miles on the ATS break in process. So far, the only way to drive the car is to rev to 2K, find the biting point which is bery high and creep the car forward till it has enough momentum before gradually letting out the clutch for full take up. Dont mind chatter or noise, but hoping the engagement point will become more forgiving as the break in process continues.

 

I have been told if you do not track your car (1/4 mile aggressive starts) that a Clutch Master stg 3 is the way to go.I have 24/18's & I do not drag race my car,I prefer roll on racing,If I wanted to drag race I would of bought a old mustang & put a high horsepower motor in it at a fraction of the cost.IMO Porsche's are not set up for drag racing.