i disagree. i did eveything and my car drives just like stock and still gets 26mpg when driving it like a grandma.

but is is the never ending story, so be sure becuase until death do you part at that point!

good luck.

 

I was expecting much more than 4k for bottomend. Good to know! did that include parts or that is just labor? I know for injectors alone I will end up paying 1k labor.

 

That was most likely just parts....

 

these are definitely not the responses I expected either. D33PBLUE and myself are looking to do internals just for safety. Reason being that our kits produce lots of low end torque and bending a rod is a possibility even at the lower power levels. I do not plan on going over 600 whp, but the torque will probably be higher and very low in the rpms.

If I just stick to rods, arp studs and keep under 1.4 bar, is that not a good idea? or is the consensus that it is not necessary..

 

Why would 600 RWHP be a problem if that is your goal? Seems safe to me...

 

If you are talking about your TT, you must have your injectors done. Those would throw off the MPG calculations; no mod'd 996TT gets 26 mpg.

 

Here is the only advice I have to offer concerning an engine build: Know your goals BEFORE you open the case, write them down, and stick to them....

 

As long as you aren't going crazy on the TQ, I recommend you keep the bottom end stock. Once you open the motor up, the car just never runs the same.

 

are stronger rods basically to prevent motor destruction from detonation? Basically i am trying to understand what are the different scenario's where a motor could get destroyed and what are the safegaurds we can take to prevent them.

I am the same , want something to run safely at 600whp level.

 

Scott, From your experience can you please provide more details of the last statement "the car just never runs the same"? Looks like proactive measures are not required at 600whp level.

 

I don't know the HP/Tq my engine has nor do I care. I think it is capable of a good bit of power output based on some comparisons with other's 60-130 times and here's what was done while it was apart. All new OEM gaskets, O-rings, beariings, rings, etc; no after-market. Carrillo rods with clearancing as mentioned above and different cams both intake and exhaust. No other head work was done and original valve springs were left in place (17K on engine). Red line was placed at 8K.

There were several external modifications to give the power but this is a thread about internals. I've been running for over 2 years and a few thousand miles ( some on the track) without any internal problems whatsoever. My answer for minimums would be exactly what I had done to mine.

 

A good engine build will produce wonderful results, but the fact is that it will never run as smoothly as it did on stock internals.

Unless I planned on going for more than 650 rwtq, I simply wouldn't go inside the motor. What I would do, however, is go with a reputable tuner, with a proven tune, and run boost levels commensurate to the octane level I'm running.

600 rwhp with similar tq should give you zero issues on stock internals. I personally think you could run as high 700 rwhp safely on stock internals as long as the tq is kept to a sane level.

If you really want to go inside the motor, then I think rods, head studs and gaskets are all that's needed.

 

Don't open your engine unless it's blown. If you do decide to do it go with the one that have built many before.There at least 4 or 5 guys on here with engine out undone for at least 2 years. I would contact them for advise. If not you may end up with a tons useless shinny parts in the garage.

 

From my very limited experience, there are several limitations, 1st is fueling, this can be mitigated using FPR and then Injectors (purposely avoiding the octane discussion). The 2nd limitation I am starting to get close to, is the stock rods are known to bend around 650hp/tq, more so at high torque/low rpms.

From offline conversations, the next would be floating the valves and heads, then the 2/3 main bearings and crankshaft are next, this is around 750hp or so and has a variable of rpm, when you start going over 7500rpms, obviously things change.

Obviously these numbers are conservative and there are many examples of people running without issues.....yet. Again, these are basic numbers, I have no specific proof or examples, just passing info I was given.

I am getting very close to 650whp, I would rather prevent an issue as opposed to repairing, especially when it comes to poking a rod through the block. I just dont know if basic rods/studs will suffice for 650-700hp/tq, I have also heard several times that once the block is taken apart, it just isn't the same anymore.

From this thread and offline conversations, I have sworn off my goal of 800-900hp/tq, just way too much risk and cost involved for what I want to do. I am seriously thinking of leaving the engine alone and enjoying what I have.

 

So what are you guys saying that with the 30's turned up I can get away with rods and not pistons????