^^^That's wild that it wouldn't be indicative of the tires with a pull to the right, but is indicative if it pulls to the left. How come Chuck?

I had this problem with Michelin PS2's on both my Audi S4 and my 996TT. It was tires both times. NTB took care of the problem under warranty both times. In fact I'm sure you could get them to reimburse you for your alignments if you tried.

 

simple...the fact that the car now pulls to the right could be anything (alignment, suspension or any tire/wheel)...granted that the right front is suspect since it pulls in that direction but it would be nice to have confirmation before you buy a new tire..in fact it could be the wheel and not the tire...if you swap the front wheels and it then pulls to the left then there is no doubt that it is the (now) left wheel/tire...

 

Car tracked striaght as an arrow before the alignment. The alignment was done since I asked the car to be raised by 10mm all around. Tires are in good shape. I have a very similar situation as the one described with my steering even a bit biased.

A visual inspection of front PS2 shows no sign of uneven wear. They think they may have messed up the corner blance of the car. Simply setting the car to Porsche factory spec to me is unacceptable with a car that has coil-over suspension. Hence the reason, I went to a reputable race/tuner shop for Porsche.

I have collected all the data and will give them one more chance. I am hoping they can fix it.

 

Ding Ding Ding, we have a winner. Same situation as you described. I also have checked the tire pressures I had 36 on the front and 42 in the back before the alignment/raising the car and I still have the same tire pressures.

 

Just an update. I am going to post the numbers from the alignment sheet tonight. The before and after based on what their machine showed. Stand by

 

Hi Just wanted to post the before and after values they printed. One point here is though I am not clear if the before value was before lifting the corners by 10mm or not.

Before

Front toe L +0.43, R +0.46
F Camber L -0.85, R -1.43 (suspect value)
Total Toe +0.89 (suspect value)
Rear toe L +0.09, R +0.06
R Camber L -1.56, R -1.43

After

Front toe L +0.04, R +0.04
F Camber L -0.8, -1.38
Total Toe +0.9
Rear toe L +0.19, R +0.19
R Camber L -2.01 R -2.02

I am no suspension expert but it seems to me my front setup does not seem inline. Any comments?

 

maybe this will help?

 

I don't understand why they would make the right front 1.38 deg neg camber when the left front maxes out at 0.8 degrees...I think we know why it pulls to the right..the max difference should be 5 seconds not 30 seconds...these values should be as close to identical as possible not just max them both...if they cannot reduce the right camber below 1.38 deg then you have something bent

 

please
dont get me started
in the 16 months ive owned my car i've probably done around 8-10 alignments EASY
and guess waht
the car ALWAYS pulls slightly to the right

 

Steve,
Can you post your alignment numbers? This way we can compare. I think Chuck made a very valid point about my camber values for front.

 

I've had pretty good results over the years with the cars tracking fairly straight after getting an alignment (though, I don't get them as frequently as you), but I understand your frustration. I don't think I've ever once had an alignment done where they've centered the steering wheel perfectly straight, it's always off center a little, usually to the left.

It seems as if it's an impossible task centering the steering wheel. Even if the tech locks the wheel down straight (or his version of straight) before doing the alignment, it never comes out right. And they rarely want to mess with it after the fact, even if a simple tie-rod adjustment will fix the problem, for fear of knocking the toe out of alignment.

 

good informative post...Im another victim of the right pull...Ill get checked out again next week.

 

Just FYI, I spoke to Tony @ TC DesignFab (he had previously worked on this car).
I am quoting his email below. Monday, I will take the car back and have it done according to Tony's rec or as close as possible. Also hope to get a corner balance done too. So STAY TUNE.

1/16" total front toe out,
3/16" total rear toe in.
-2.0 front camber and
-2.5 rear camber should be a good starting point.

 

Tony will get it straightened out (pun intended)

 

These specs are fine -- for the track. You will eat street tires with this setup, with excessive wear on the inside edges. If you get 10k miles to a set of street tires with these specs, I'd be really surprised.

On my car, I went to a lot of trouble (and expense) to be able to have both track and street settings. I have GT3 lower control arms in the front and adjustable upper control arms and an adjustable toe-link in the rear. I run specs like the above on the track, and pretty much stock alignment specs for the street. If you take good notes, you can go between the two settings by counting turns on the adjustments.

My street tires are Kumho Ecstas with 12k miles on them, and they are about 1/2 done. Even in the rear!

Jon