DIY pressure/boost leak test rig w/pics
if you rotate the motor a few times you might get lucky to get the valves to shut... otherwise 15 to 18 is decent... another way is to do it at the TB.... that will hold firm 30 if you like.... then work your way down to the turbos.. this is how we do it hardcore lol
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2001 996TT 3.6L and stock ECU
9.66 seconds @ 147.76 mph 1/4 mile click to view
160 mph @ 9.77 seconds in 1/4 mile click to view
50% OFF ON PORSCHE ECU TUNING BLACK FRIDAY SPECIAL
2001 996TT 3.6L and stock ECU
9.66 seconds @ 147.76 mph 1/4 mile click to view
160 mph @ 9.77 seconds in 1/4 mile click to view
50% OFF ON PORSCHE ECU TUNING BLACK FRIDAY SPECIAL
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 6,453
From: CT
Rep Power: 439
back from the past....
when setting the air attachment in place, are you guys just drilling a hole, putting the fitting in and epoxy sealing it?
or are you tapping a thread into it, and screwing in the attachment?
i saw one person that had a nut on the inside of the attachment, and also used threading tape, but i havent seen anyone actually state that you tap threads into the plastic piece...?
when setting the air attachment in place, are you guys just drilling a hole, putting the fitting in and epoxy sealing it?
or are you tapping a thread into it, and screwing in the attachment?
i saw one person that had a nut on the inside of the attachment, and also used threading tape, but i havent seen anyone actually state that you tap threads into the plastic piece...?
I threaded mine...holds all the pressure you can put in...in my case it will hold 120psi...
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Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 18
From: Germany
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Pressure leaking in throttlebody area??
Hello, my name is Claas and i am posting from Germany. I have a modified
996 turbo that was running at 1,4bar max boost. Since a few weeks i am missing
0,2 bar. Everything is working just fine, except the lack of boost und power.
I found the thread an was very enthusiastic. I build a MAF plug right away and
started to look for a leak.
What happend was, that i heard the air leaking out as it seems thru the throttlebody somehow.
When you put pressure on the system, will it stay there and just leak slowly?
Touching all the tubes, fittings and connections around the area, did not change the frequency of the escaping air.
I am more active in a german forum, but still hope that i will find some help here.
http://www.elferteam.de/Forums/index...pic=40323&st=0
996 turbo that was running at 1,4bar max boost. Since a few weeks i am missing
0,2 bar. Everything is working just fine, except the lack of boost und power.
I found the thread an was very enthusiastic. I build a MAF plug right away and
started to look for a leak.
What happend was, that i heard the air leaking out as it seems thru the throttlebody somehow.
When you put pressure on the system, will it stay there and just leak slowly?
Touching all the tubes, fittings and connections around the area, did not change the frequency of the escaping air.
I am more active in a german forum, but still hope that i will find some help here.
http://www.elferteam.de/Forums/index...pic=40323&st=0
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Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 79
From: San Francisco
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well i after 5 days at the cottage i was starting to get a little antsy ... so i gave my good friend todd k a call and asked him if wanted to test for boost leaks how would you go about doing it ... well after a few minutes of talking here is what we came up with 2-2inch pvc couplers 2-2 inch plugs some epoxy(used to seal the air fitting into the pvc) and an air fitting total cost $16 at lowes.....well i think of myself as a bit meticulous when i work on my car thinking that i would not find any leaks... i was wrong i found 5 huge leaks it leaked so bad that it emptied my aircompressor in 15 seconds... after an hour of so tracking them down its as tight as a drum.. i would advise doing this to your setup.. the car is a whole differnt beast i can finnaly keep my boost on top.. the only bad side 4th gear 1.5 bar the clutch starts to slip a bit around 5000rpm ill probably have to turn it down a tad
let me know if you have any questions
ps
i plugged the tester into an air compressor regulated at 25 lbs the 2 rubber couplers mount onto the turbo air inlets.. you can hear all the air leaks and you rub around the hoses and clamps with your hand and when you get close the pitch changes
tim
... after an hour of so tracking them down its as tight as a drum.. i would advise doing this to your setup.. the car is a whole differnt beast i can finnaly keep my boost on top.. the only bad side 4th gear 1.5 bar the clutch starts to slip a bit around 5000rpm ill probably have to turn it down a tad let me know if you have any questionsps
i plugged the tester into an air compressor regulated at 25 lbs the 2 rubber couplers mount onto the turbo air inlets.. you can hear all the air leaks and you rub around the hoses and clamps with your hand and when you get close the pitch changes
tim
well i after 5 days at the cottage i was starting to get a little antsy ... so i gave my good friend todd k a call and asked him if wanted to test for boost leaks how would you go about doing it ... well after a few minutes of talking here is what we came up with 2-2inch pvc couplers 2-2 inch plugs some epoxy(used to seal the air fitting into the pvc) and an air fitting total cost $16 at lowes.....well i think of myself as a bit meticulous when i work on my car thinking that i would not find any leaks... i was wrong i found 5 huge leaks it leaked so bad that it emptied my aircompressor in 15 seconds... after an hour of so tracking them down its as tight as a drum.. i would advise doing this to your setup.. the car is a whole differnt beast i can finnaly keep my boost on top.. the only bad side 4th gear 1.5 bar the clutch starts to slip a bit around 5000rpm ill probably have to turn it down a tad let me know if you have any questions
ps
i plugged the tester into an air compressor regulated at 25 lbs the 2 rubber couplers mount onto the turbo air inlets.. you can hear all the air leaks and you rub around the hoses and clamps with your hand and when you get close the pitch changes
tim
... after an hour of so tracking them down its as tight as a drum.. i would advise doing this to your setup.. the car is a whole differnt beast i can finnaly keep my boost on top.. the only bad side 4th gear 1.5 bar the clutch starts to slip a bit around 5000rpm ill probably have to turn it down a tad let me know if you have any questionsps
i plugged the tester into an air compressor regulated at 25 lbs the 2 rubber couplers mount onto the turbo air inlets.. you can hear all the air leaks and you rub around the hoses and clamps with your hand and when you get close the pitch changes
tim
You can contact Marski. He has them premade forsale.
911tuning.com
I've done this method a few times with the same rig, made one for the air filter inlet as well.
My question - do you always have to pressurize the driver side turbo?
There is a line that goes to the intake of the driver turbo, if I pressurize from the passenger turbo, that line just blows out air. It has a nipple that connects to the inlet pipe when installed.
Also, I hear air "flowing" through the system, but if it was holding pressure I'm assuming I wouldn't hear anything at all.
My initial tests found a few leaks, which were fixed, using the soap/water method. I haven't found any additional leaks, but I still hear that air flow sound.
THoughts?
My question - do you always have to pressurize the driver side turbo?
There is a line that goes to the intake of the driver turbo, if I pressurize from the passenger turbo, that line just blows out air. It has a nipple that connects to the inlet pipe when installed.
Also, I hear air "flowing" through the system, but if it was holding pressure I'm assuming I wouldn't hear anything at all.
My initial tests found a few leaks, which were fixed, using the soap/water method. I haven't found any additional leaks, but I still hear that air flow sound.
THoughts?
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Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 5,551
From: tn
Rep Power: 628
I've done this method a few times with the same rig, made one for the air filter inlet as well.
My question - do you always have to pressurize the driver side turbo?
There is a line that goes to the intake of the driver turbo, if I pressurize from the passenger turbo, that line just blows out air. It has a nipple that connects to the inlet pipe when installed.
Also, I hear air "flowing" through the system, but if it was holding pressure I'm assuming I wouldn't hear anything at all.
My initial tests found a few leaks, which were fixed, using the soap/water method. I haven't found any additional leaks, but I still hear that air flow sound.
THoughts?
My question - do you always have to pressurize the driver side turbo?
There is a line that goes to the intake of the driver turbo, if I pressurize from the passenger turbo, that line just blows out air. It has a nipple that connects to the inlet pipe when installed.
Also, I hear air "flowing" through the system, but if it was holding pressure I'm assuming I wouldn't hear anything at all.
My initial tests found a few leaks, which were fixed, using the soap/water method. I haven't found any additional leaks, but I still hear that air flow sound.
THoughts?
order part number 996-110-135-70
__________________
2001 996TT 3.6L and stock ECU
9.66 seconds @ 147.76 mph 1/4 mile click to view
160 mph @ 9.77 seconds in 1/4 mile click to view
50% OFF ON PORSCHE ECU TUNING BLACK FRIDAY SPECIAL
2001 996TT 3.6L and stock ECU
9.66 seconds @ 147.76 mph 1/4 mile click to view
160 mph @ 9.77 seconds in 1/4 mile click to view
50% OFF ON PORSCHE ECU TUNING BLACK FRIDAY SPECIAL
Last edited by markski@markskituning; Jun 13, 2013 at 08:07 AM.
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 613
From: Toronto
Rep Power: 67
So I built one of the 3.5" intake rigs from home depot. I can see why people use ones on the turbos directly now. My biggest leak was the big hose that goes to the inlet of the turbo itself but this is vacuum and not normally pressurized. With that it was a bit annoying to find other leaks as it made some noise, well that and the oil cap which I got sealed. If you build one yourself, tape around the 3.5" piece so there is some traction for the pipe and tighten both clamps well, I had one pop out
My car held 20psi pretty well, I could charge up the tank to just 20psi and open the valve fully and it took well over 60 seconds before all the air was gone. It mostly leaked from the turbo intake pipe on the driver side, if I could have sealed that it would have held for a lot longer. Found one leak on the intake manifold passenger side where the two worm clamps are, tighten down to fix.
I could hear a little bit of hissing at the diverter valves but couldn't isolate it exactly. Maybe the valves leaking?
My car held 20psi pretty well, I could charge up the tank to just 20psi and open the valve fully and it took well over 60 seconds before all the air was gone. It mostly leaked from the turbo intake pipe on the driver side, if I could have sealed that it would have held for a lot longer. Found one leak on the intake manifold passenger side where the two worm clamps are, tighten down to fix.
I could hear a little bit of hissing at the diverter valves but couldn't isolate it exactly. Maybe the valves leaking?
Last edited by King James; Jun 15, 2013 at 05:50 AM.
So I built one of the 3.5" intake rigs from home depot. I can see why people use ones on the turbos directly now. My biggest leak was the big hose that goes to the inlet of the turbo itself but this is vacuum and not normally pressurized. With that it was a bit annoying to find other leaks as it made some noise, well that and the oil cap which I got sealed. If you build one yourself, tape around the 3.5" piece so there is some traction for the pipe and tighten both clamps well, I had one pop out
My car held 20psi pretty well, I could charge up the tank to just 20psi and open the valve fully and it took well over 60 seconds before all the air was gone. It mostly leaked from the turbo intake pipe on the driver side, if I could have sealed that it would have held for a lot longer. Found one leak on the intake manifold passenger side where the two worm clamps are, tighten down to fix.
I could hear a little bit of hissing at the diverter valves but couldn't isolate it exactly. Maybe the valves leaking?
My car held 20psi pretty well, I could charge up the tank to just 20psi and open the valve fully and it took well over 60 seconds before all the air was gone. It mostly leaked from the turbo intake pipe on the driver side, if I could have sealed that it would have held for a lot longer. Found one leak on the intake manifold passenger side where the two worm clamps are, tighten down to fix.
I could hear a little bit of hissing at the diverter valves but couldn't isolate it exactly. Maybe the valves leaking?
What tune are you using?