I am not questioning you as I am not as knowledgeable as most on here, and I'm still learning a lot about these cars, but what is it that makes the limit around 525-575 crank hp? and what is there to say about the cars running 11s and even high 10s on k24/18g and gt28's and putting out 650-700 crank hp? they seem to be running fine with quite a few miles, no? are they running with a "band aid" of sorts?

thanks

 

This is interesting. I'm sorry to hear about your maf issues. I don't know if I've been lucky or if it's tune dependent but I haven't blown a maf yet and I'm running the V flow. I think if I were in your shoes I'd just do a Ford Maf and see if that takes care of your problem.

 

Sorry to hear and yep, you need a ford MAF asap. I went through 7 of those. It will save you a lot of headache. After the modified MAF there has been no issues. If I were you I would change the Y pipe too at the same time to Proto style.

 

THe stock MAF limitation is based on a potential voltage output of 5 volts. It reaches this at about 470rwhp/rwtq(iirc). 2 possibilities for expanding this limitation; slow down the velocity of the air via a larger inlet tube, or change the MAF altogether, thereby changing the entire calibration and increasing the potential(still based on a 0-5v signal)

It's not really a band aid for a couple of reasons...

There is also a map sensor
You have a desired or target A/F ratio in the ecu
The ignition timing is constantly being adjusted with input from the knock sensors(this is why you can do nothing but add race fuel and see an increase in power/torque)

If Porsche is doing it, it can't be all that bad, right?

Justin

 

Not sure if my question came out right, but I meant to ask:

are some tuners in some way "band aiding" this MAF limitation with their ECU tuning? and is that not a good thing based on what you are saying?

And is there a danger/risk of running 650-700+ hp with the stock MAF in your opinion?

 

I do not think that they are "band aiding" the system. THe Bosch unit is quite powerful and its adaptation is what allows the tuners to be able to increase power so much with a reflash. Since all of the safety features of the stock ecu are still in place(at least most of them, i hope), there is very little to worry about.

In my opinion, 700chp could be made reliable, but since I don't really focus on the stock ecu tuning, I am not the best person to answer that. As far as a danger in running that amount of hp in relation to the stock MAF.... ANything can happen at that hp level when increasing the power output level over factory, so the risk is always present. Personally, I would upgrade the MAF at anything over 550whp.

This is all moot in my case, since I am running 100% speed density

Justin

 

^ thanks for your input Justin. I am shooting for the 550whp number (for now) and would like to retain stock MAF for now as well.

 

It is very weird that bosch does not have any bigger MAF from ours,so to replace it with a bosch unit...For present time I would like to get the FORD maf and install it with an adapter to the intake...Can somebody supply me with FORD maf part no or sell me this unit with the adapter...In worst case i will have to buy Y pipe and install the MAF in boost hose...However i am interested in only these parts,i can fabricate others here and install cone filters to the turbos...So a good priced package for MAF,housing (and Y pipe only) would be appreciated...

 

I have a Ford MAF FS... if you want just the MAF itself. I will be in Athens this week if you want to meet up? PM me if interested

 

Skand - you are making alot of power which is good Ford MAF time.

 

Yes Dan...the car runs fine except for the left header that i think might have a leak again...i will get a FORD MAF and a Y pipe and will develop the rest to make a free intake system...Worst case scenario,i will develop my own Y pipe if no one sells one in a good price...

 

In order to have my car running,i installed an OEM maf...i did not buy it from Bosch(like the three others)a friend of mine gave it to me sealed at a white box...with no brand at all...just a sticker saying OEM part ........(will edit it tomorrow cant recall the part no now)the MAF did not have any part number engraved on it such as porsche or bosch units...otherwise they look the same...the car hesitates heavily...it does not throw any codes but it runs awful...bad and unstable idle,and when i revved 2nd geat to 7000rpm and shifted to 3rd...the car stalled and boost went to 0,3...no codes at all...idle values of maf is 22kg and 1,4 volt...after some minutes for stabilizing...which is ok...but then while driving when i press the throttle sometimes the car stalls and nothing happens...It seems to me like a plug-coil failure,but there is no way that can happen when i swapped mafs...Are there any cheap chinese mafs?My friend bought it for 100$ from UK store with mafs...

 

We carried some MAF's made in China for a while and the first ones were fine, but then we got a bad shipment and discontinued them after that. They came in a white box with a Bosch part number. I would try an OEM MAF.

 

That is exactly the package i saw...white box with only oem bosch number...i needed it just for a couple of days until i figure out which maf to buy,ford or hitachi to give an end to maf failures...

 

Did you try putting your stock airbox and stock filter back in? I bet you won't notice much of a difference seat of the pants...