Pic Request: Seal Gray TT with Black Turbo Twists
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Thanks everyone. I think I'm going to go with paint on the wheels, as I have a good painter and don't know a powdercoater that's local, but will be sending my exhaust tips off to Bryan to get powdercoated. Seems like a decent compromise. 
I'll post up pics once it gets done. How would you guys handle the valve stems? I'm sure the body shop will know, but it can't hurt to go in there with a specific request. Thanks.
I'll post up pics once it gets done. How would you guys handle the valve stems? I'm sure the body shop will know, but it can't hurt to go in there with a specific request. Thanks.
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Hey Seth, there are ton of places in NYC area to get your wheels powdercoated. Let me know if you need some help, feel free to PM and I can give you a list of at least 5 places to bring your car for A+ work. I have used (2) myself and would go back to both.
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RSS Bryan: What's the temp do you guys set it at when baking and for how long ? I am considering having this done to my wheels. Also what's the turn around time for powder coating wheels ? Thanks.
Former Vendor
Joined: Mar 2009
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With Powder Coating wheels, first we only use Cold Stripping methods to ensure NO annealing* takes place. Second, we cure at approx. 350 degrees for 30-35 minutes to ensure NO annealing* is present in the process and final product. We have been coating for many years with no issues on our personal cars, customer cars, race cars and other manufacturers wheels sent to us...
(*Annealing / Metallurgy: a heat treatment that alters the microstructure of a material causing changes in properties such as strength and hardness)
Depending on how many wheels we are doing at any particular time and overall workload, you are looking at approx. 3-6 days turnaround for our service.
Feel free to contact us directly with additional questions or to schedule an apt.
Thanks for the post.
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Joined: Apr 2008
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Dazwhoa,
With Powder Coating wheels, first we only use Cold Stripping methods to ensure NO annealing* takes place. Second, we cure at approx. 350 degrees for 30-35 minutes to ensure NO annealing* is present in the process and final product. We have been coating for many years with no issues on our personal cars, customer cars, race cars and other manufacturers wheels sent to us...
(*Annealing / Metallurgy: a heat treatment that alters the microstructure of a material causing changes in properties such as strength and hardness)
Depending on how many wheels we are doing at any particular time and overall workload, you are looking at approx. 3-6 days turnaround for our service.
Feel free to contact us directly with additional questions or to schedule an apt.
Thanks for the post.
With Powder Coating wheels, first we only use Cold Stripping methods to ensure NO annealing* takes place. Second, we cure at approx. 350 degrees for 30-35 minutes to ensure NO annealing* is present in the process and final product. We have been coating for many years with no issues on our personal cars, customer cars, race cars and other manufacturers wheels sent to us...
(*Annealing / Metallurgy: a heat treatment that alters the microstructure of a material causing changes in properties such as strength and hardness)
Depending on how many wheels we are doing at any particular time and overall workload, you are looking at approx. 3-6 days turnaround for our service.
Feel free to contact us directly with additional questions or to schedule an apt.
Thanks for the post.
Hmmm, me thinks that 325 is bordering on causing issues. Here is what HRE had to say about my question regarding Baking temps:
Sorry. I've recently taken on a different position here so I'm not able to be as quick to respond. I see this thread died so at the risk of stirring up trouble for ourselves and enduring the wrath of my team here, I'll try to answer your question.
It isn't just a simple matter of temp. Temps as low as 220 degrees F will degrade 6061-T6 given a long enough exposure (10000+ hours). Temps above 400 degrees will cause almost immediate degradation. Temps in between are a function of time and temp. For proprietary reasons I'm not going to say the time and temp cycle we use to cure our powdercoat, but suffice it to say that we are confident we are being smart about this.
For background, most powdercoaters cure over 400F. Most chemical paint stripping is done at 500F which is VERY common here in SoCal and why we don't do this and only use a bead blaster in-house. At 500F you are causing severe degradation at the surface of the part even if it sits for just a few minutes and since stresses on parts are highest at the surface and where a fatigue crack starts, this is where you're going to have a problem. I actually bet the stripping caused more damage than the recoating.
For the record, since the wheels were taken apart, stripped at an unknown temp and recoated at an unknown temp, the warranty is clearly void (it was void the minute they were taken apart) and technically we didn't need to spend a single minute on this... but that simply wouldn't be in line with our beliefs in how we support our product and customers.
It isn't just a simple matter of temp. Temps as low as 220 degrees F will degrade 6061-T6 given a long enough exposure (10000+ hours). Temps above 400 degrees will cause almost immediate degradation. Temps in between are a function of time and temp. For proprietary reasons I'm not going to say the time and temp cycle we use to cure our powdercoat, but suffice it to say that we are confident we are being smart about this.
For background, most powdercoaters cure over 400F. Most chemical paint stripping is done at 500F which is VERY common here in SoCal and why we don't do this and only use a bead blaster in-house. At 500F you are causing severe degradation at the surface of the part even if it sits for just a few minutes and since stresses on parts are highest at the surface and where a fatigue crack starts, this is where you're going to have a problem. I actually bet the stripping caused more damage than the recoating.
For the record, since the wheels were taken apart, stripped at an unknown temp and recoated at an unknown temp, the warranty is clearly void (it was void the minute they were taken apart) and technically we didn't need to spend a single minute on this... but that simply wouldn't be in line with our beliefs in how we support our product and customers.
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Hmmm, me thinks that 325 is bordering on causing issues. Here is what HRE had to say about my question regarding Baking temps: It isn't just a simple matter of temp. Temps as low as 220 degrees F will degrade 6061-T6 given a long enough exposure (10000+ hours). Temps above 400 degrees will cause almost immediate degradation. Temps in between are a function of time and temp....
For background, most powdercoaters cure over 400F. Most chemical paint stripping is done at 500F which is VERY common here in SoCal and why we don't do this and only use a bead blaster in-house. At 500F you are causing severe degradation at the surface of the part even if it sits for just a few minutes and since stresses on parts are highest at the surface and where a fatigue crack starts, this is where you're going to have a problem. I actually bet the stripping caused more damage than the recoating.
For background, most powdercoaters cure over 400F. Most chemical paint stripping is done at 500F which is VERY common here in SoCal and why we don't do this and only use a bead blaster in-house. At 500F you are causing severe degradation at the surface of the part even if it sits for just a few minutes and since stresses on parts are highest at the surface and where a fatigue crack starts, this is where you're going to have a problem. I actually bet the stripping caused more damage than the recoating.
Thanks for your comments. The quote from HRE you posted states:
"It isn't just a simple matter of temp. Temps as low as 220 degrees F will degrade 6061-T6 given a long enough exposure (10000+ hours). Temps above 400 degrees will cause almost immediate degradation. Temps in between are a function of time and temp... I actually bet the stripping caused more damage than the recoating. "
I agree with Alan at HRE's quote... as my original response suggests, it's all about the function between time and temp...
It's clear the quote is describing a long exposure to high heat to effect stability of metals. As I stated, our cure time is 30-35 minutes, it is all about time and temperature. As Alan's statement suggested, the issues with wheels that have failed is with hot stripping processes which we don't do and/or wheels being put in a bake-off oven that some vendors use that put the wheel at 800-900 degrees to take paint off which can cause possible damage, amongst other practices. We only use cold stripping methods in addition to our specialized processes that don't degrade the metal.
Our numerous companies have been powder coating for over 20 years, and we have been the powder coating source for some of the biggest and best names in the wheel business.
I mean no offense as I'm sure you don't as well, but simply stated again - we pride ourselves in stress analysis, proper procedures and have had no failures with any of our wheel coating services with everything from street cars to track cars under extreme conditions.
Thanks, B
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Bryan, definitely no offense meant on my part. you guys obviously know what you are doing. If I were looking to powder coat I would want to make sure that the mfg of my wheel would still guaranty the wheel after being coated.
I think that HRE's statement that the temps in between 220 and 400 are a function of time is appropriate and the big question is what is that time at 325. If that time is 50 minutes than you are correct and that may indeed be the case. I was just bringing it up because I have noticed that most powder coaters use a bake temp of 320 or so for 30 minutes. There are also some new powder coating processes that use lower baking temps in the 180 range. Not sure how good this is, however.
I think that HRE's statement that the temps in between 220 and 400 are a function of time is appropriate and the big question is what is that time at 325. If that time is 50 minutes than you are correct and that may indeed be the case. I was just bringing it up because I have noticed that most powder coaters use a bake temp of 320 or so for 30 minutes. There are also some new powder coating processes that use lower baking temps in the 180 range. Not sure how good this is, however.
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yup, the colors that black wheels look great on are, white, yellow, seal gray, atlas gray and black for me anyway. Silver and blue look great with gunmetal gray, and red looks awesome with satin or polished. But tastes vary.
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