well after dealing with a nagging problem(slight poping under heavy load) that has become more evident with the new turbo setup ... and consulting with mr knighton over at protomotive ... we figured that the heads are lifting

im like what i have ARP head studs... then there was a pause from todd...oo and he proceded to tell me that "there is a problem with them studs we have had a couple of cars in here with the same problem it seem that the torque specs and combination on stud and nut combo didnt jive" im like o $hit and i never swear i think i said it like 5 times

anyways im sure that either protomotive or ARP will make it right with me...

the plan is if i get parts by the weekend will pull it and start the dismanteling this weekend

on a good note ill be replacing the clutch and getting rid of all those crappy clamps on the plenum and runners

tim

 

Sorry to hear...Im going through the same ****! APR studs suck! How much boost are you running?

Jag

 

That sucks, I'm sorry to hear that. I hope everything goes as smoothly as possible for ya. Hopefully you'll be on the road again very soon.

 

1.45bar but here is the deal with the new setup it would start to pop a bit at 1.1 bar thats what threw the red flag ... i pressure tested it and while i was under the car i seen the telltale sight cly3 drivers side close to the firewall a little crusty seepage by the head gasket.... what are you going to replace them with??

tim

 

thanks man its kinda one of those things hopefully in a week or so will have her back on the road ... be sure to learn from my mistakes and go with whats proven and if it has not been proven WAIT

tim

 

Tim

my heads are at EVOM for the 12mm HS. The 10mm HS's that EVOMS sell are stronger than ARP. EVOMS stands behind the 12mm HS not allowing lifting.

GL with getting ARP to cover anything - if your lucky they will refund you the cost of the POS studs!

 

Tim,

I'm sorry to hear that, but if they stand behind it and turn it around quickly, not so bad. I was told recently that if you do the studs with anything other than OEM studs, you are supposed to remove the engine after a short time and re-torque the heads. Did you go through this proceedure with the aftermarket studs? Good luck with the repair and upgrades.

 

Bummer man... sorry to hear this...

 

Sorry to hear Tim....hope you fix her soon.

 

What is the feedback on the bigger(12mm?) head studs ? Are they doing the job?

Bad luck Tim. What head gasket did you have?

 

I would call BBi and find out....those guys know what they are doing. They are sponsored by 9ff.

 

i am running the stock gasket

 

I was going to ask the same question as John... In general, whether the direction say to or not. Aftermarket studs/bolts should be retourqued after 2 heat cycles and then again after some miles (1 track day or 1500 miles or so).

In many other engines we put together, we used to fight the same issue until we religiously started to do this....

 

Tim,

Just to clarify; who built your motor ??

Good luck !

It is my understanding that the really beefy EVOMS 12 mm studs require custom
machining to allow for 12 mm (head of stud, I believe)?

The new 10 MM ones do not require machining ? Can someone clarify

 

First of Tim, I feel your pain, I am very sorry you are having to deal with this!

I believe you are correct Marty.

To be sure I went the 12mm way with EVOMS HG kindly donated by Mr Chad Viso, yes it is more costly but I know my heads won't lift again!

Good luck with everything Tim!

Ben