so you can go softer with the adjustable ones.

Does going softer in the front take out more understeer? what is the reason for going softer in front?

 

Yes, that's the reason. I don't think that you can completely eliminate the push with just sway bars on a stock suspension. There isn't enough negative camber available, so the tires roll over too much and you lose too much contact surface on heavy cornering. You need about -2.5 degrees in front, -2.0 degrees in the rear. There isn't enough room in the fender strut opening to get that much camber, even if you were to grind the camber adjustment slots. (Yes, that is the voice of experience.)

The GT3 bars do it by moving the bottom out. I can back and forth from the track and street settings by adding/removing 14mm shims in the control arms. Toe also needs to be adjusted. About 10 full turns on the tie rods. I have the Longacre alignment kit (plates + measuring tapes) to fine tune the toe. It works very well for me.

Jon

 

Depends on the size of the new front bar, If it's a bigger diameter the softest setting may still be stiffer than stock. I strongly recommend you start with a rear GT2 bar only and go from there, you can always add the front bar later if you feel the need. FWIW my car with Bilsteins and a GT2 rear is neutral on R compounds.

 

And actually, since we're splitting hairs, going Bigger doesn't always mean stiffer. If you're dealing with a "thicker wall" or "solid" bar, it may be as stiff, or stiffer than a larger diameter hollow bar.

Mike

 

I installed H&R's front and rear when I had the PSS10 setup installed and I'm very happy with the ride and handling. The car tracks much better and no noticeable roll or turn in--- in the corners.

 

RSS Adjustable Toe Steer Kit and RSS Adjustable Rear Link Kit really necessary after lowering your car??

 

I was wondering the exact same thing.... ?