HFS-6 Install Pictures
My ECU is set up for very high boost but I run an EVC VI and keep it low for the track. The A/F ratio is extremely fat at WOT to keep cyl temps down with high-boost conditions. How would a water/meth system work under those conditions without retuning? I'm not looking for more power; just a way to run lower boost and achieve the same power.
I do not have any other pics during the install, but it really only a matter of relocating the temp sensor for the climate control and a little trimming. I ordered a few extra of those plastic covers from the dealer, and I'll probably pre-modify them to fit the gauge if anyone was interested.
The line is plastic line throughout, just sleeved inside the engine bay. It really makes it look neater and works as cheap insurance incase the line does become sensitive to heat. The line shipping in the kits in the past year seems to be much less affected by heat, so it hasn't been an issue. Even if you were running water only, you would still see some benefits in an ECU retune because of the lower IATs.
As far as consumption rates go, it varies between kits we have it installed on and whether we use the HFS1 or 6. Audikp is running an HFS-1 with a 6QT tank and it is enough to get him through an entire DE session without a problem.
The line is plastic line throughout, just sleeved inside the engine bay. It really makes it look neater and works as cheap insurance incase the line does become sensitive to heat. The line shipping in the kits in the past year seems to be much less affected by heat, so it hasn't been an issue. Even if you were running water only, you would still see some benefits in an ECU retune because of the lower IATs.
As far as consumption rates go, it varies between kits we have it installed on and whether we use the HFS1 or 6. Audikp is running an HFS-1 with a 6QT tank and it is enough to get him through an entire DE session without a problem.
My ECU is set up for very high boost but I run an EVC VI and keep it low for the track. The A/F ratio is extremely fat at WOT to keep cyl temps down with high-boost conditions. How would a water/meth system work under those conditions without retuning? I'm not looking for more power; just a way to run lower boost and achieve the same power.
Am I correct in understanding that you want turn down your boost, and have your car run the same as it does in high boost with your current tune? In your situation, I don't think you are going to see any benefits without a retune..
A properly tuned ECU should be running the "desired" amount of fuel for any amount of boost the car runs. Adding the water and meth will richen up your mixture at any boost you run. If your tune specifically richens up at higher boost, you could, in theory, end up running richer at both lower and higher boost settings.
More fuel generally ends up in less power, so you may be, for lack of a better term, putting out the fire with the added fuel. The meth does allow us the ability to run more timing, which allows us to make more power at less boost with an ECU flash. Without an ECU flash, you shouldn't be seeing significant gains in power where you would normally be running pump gas-as the timing shouldn't be there if the car was safely tuned.
Last edited by DaveM@EPL; Nov 19, 2009 at 03:45 PM.
Glove box if you have one 
The gauge placement on the passenger side isn't as out of place as it may seem, and is in a convenient enough place where you can glance at it and still look at the road. Keep in mind, besides turning the system on and off if you wanted to, the only thing you really need to see is if the water level light is on. If the flow failsafe trips for some reason, it will also throw the level light yellow for 15 seconds.

The gauge placement on the passenger side isn't as out of place as it may seem, and is in a convenient enough place where you can glance at it and still look at the road. Keep in mind, besides turning the system on and off if you wanted to, the only thing you really need to see is if the water level light is on. If the flow failsafe trips for some reason, it will also throw the level light yellow for 15 seconds.
did you snap any more photos of the install or routing to that guage?
feel free to PM them if you want
Thanks
Nice and clean ...
good work
mark
good work
mark
__________________

2001 996TT 3.6L and stock ECU
9.66 seconds @ 147.76 mph 1/4 mile click to view
160 mph @ 9.77 seconds in 1/4 mile click to view
50% OFF ON PORSCHE ECU TUNING BLACK FRIDAY SPECIAL

2001 996TT 3.6L and stock ECU
9.66 seconds @ 147.76 mph 1/4 mile click to view
160 mph @ 9.77 seconds in 1/4 mile click to view
50% OFF ON PORSCHE ECU TUNING BLACK FRIDAY SPECIAL
What AFR's can you safely run on GT28's and pump gas with the W/M kit installed? My car is at about 10.2 AFR @ 1.5 bar on pump at WOT. I have no idea where timing is at, but would suspect it is also very conservative with the above parameters. Generally speaking, what kind of spark advance and AFR's are you tuning to with a pump gas (92) and 1.5 bar boost on GT28s with the kit installed. I'm trying to get an idea of power gains achievable for me, without being on the bleeding edge, by adding water/Meth on pump gas. I'm guessing it has to be about 70 HP.
ALSO - Why not install the injectors at the point of maximum heat - immediately after the turbos, pre-intercooler. Is it a function of no hard piping there? Fear of alcohol in the aluminum intercoolers? I can't figure it out.
Thanks, Mike
ALSO - Why not install the injectors at the point of maximum heat - immediately after the turbos, pre-intercooler. Is it a function of no hard piping there? Fear of alcohol in the aluminum intercoolers? I can't figure it out.
Thanks, Mike
Last edited by Zippy; Nov 20, 2009 at 01:01 PM.
What AFR's can you safely run on GT28's and pump gas with the W/M kit installed? My car is at about 10.2 AFR @ 1.5 bar on pump at WOT. I have no idea where timing is at, but would suspect it is also very conservative with the above parameters. Generally speaking, what kind of spark advance and AFR's are you tuning to with a pump gas (92) and 1.5 bar boost on GT28s with the kit installed. I'm trying to get an idea of power gains achievable for me, without being on the bleeding edge, by adding water/Meth on pump gas. I'm guessing it has to be about 70 HP.
ALSO - Why not intall the injectors at the point of maximum heat - immediately after the turbos, pre-intercooler. Is it a function of no hard pipeing there? Fear of alchohol in the aluminum intercoolers? I can't figure it out.
Thanks, Mike
ALSO - Why not intall the injectors at the point of maximum heat - immediately after the turbos, pre-intercooler. Is it a function of no hard pipeing there? Fear of alchohol in the aluminum intercoolers? I can't figure it out.
Thanks, Mike
Dave:
This is EXCELLENT work. I am about to start y HFS-6 Installation on a CAB.
Here are some questions:
.
Thanks again for a great explanation.
This is EXCELLENT work. I am about to start y HFS-6 Installation on a CAB.
Here are some questions:
- Did you need to move the Front spare wheel over to the left to fit the pump in. It does not fit on my car, also does it stay cool in there?
- What route do you take for the wires to the Gauge, do you have to pull up carpets and stuff?
- If the HFS-6 Controller is concealed (it appears so here behind the seat) How do you adjust it in the future?
- Placement of the Solenoid Valve is crucial from a heat perspective. The Coil is rated to 150*C MAX and it gaines 35*C in use so for safety the temp at the mounting location should be <65*C. maintaing 100*C, Where did you locate it?
- Your placement of the jets is relatively close to the throttle body, I intend on putting mine UNDER the Y Pipe as close to the connectors from the intercooler as possible, any comments?
- What size Jets did you use?
. Thanks again for a great explanation.
Last edited by ShokWaveRider; Nov 20, 2009 at 06:22 AM.
Dave:
This is EXCELLENT work. I am about to start y HFS-6 Installation on a CAB.
Here are some questions:
.
Thanks again for a great explanation.
This is EXCELLENT work. I am about to start y HFS-6 Installation on a CAB.
Here are some questions:
- Did you need to move the Front spare wheel over to the left to fit the pump in. It does not fit on my car, also does it stay cool in there?
- What route do you take for the wires to the Gauge, do you have to pull up carpets and stuff?
- If the HFS-6 Controller is concealed (it appears so here behind the seat) How do you adjust it in the future?
- Placement of the Solenoid Valve is crucial from a heat perspective. The Coil is rated to 150*C MAX and it gaines 35*C in use so for safety the temp at the mounting location should be <65*C. maintaing 100*C, Where did you locate it?
- Your placement of the jets is relatively close to the throttle body, I intend on putting mine UNDER the Y Pipe as close to the connectors from the intercooler as possible, any comments?
- What size Jets did you use?
. Thanks again for a great explanation.
These are great questions we have spent countless hours figuring out the best answers to. Every install we've done we have found ways to make it better than the previous one. If you purchased a kit from us, be sure to email support@eplabs.net and Tony or I would be glad to help you out with anything you need!
I will be glad to share this info with you all during and after my install.
Re-inventing the wheel and all that. Those who will install it themselves will still do it regardless, those that would take advantage of a service will do that also regardless.
I however do understand not wanting to give too much away to other vendors. Just seems to me to defeat the object of the purpose of the thread to share the photos. But never mind, I tried.No doubt I will find out soon enough? I have installed at least a dozen of these on other cars, just not a Porsche TT. How hard can it be? Just needs a little more mulling. I will share my experiences in full.





