K24/18g
Proto Tune
60lb Injectors
EVOMS Headers
Speedtech Cross Flow Exhaust (Straight pipes currently)
SouthBend Clutch

1. Cold start (after sitting overnight), rough idle (sounds like it may be misfiring a bit) and exhaust popping fairly loud, sounds like a Formula one car. After about 30-40 seconds the idle adapts and everything sounds normal. Subsequent warm restarts (immediate, as well as waiting 20-30 minutes) and everything idles properly right from the get go. Scanned car with Durametric, no codes. Not sure if maybe the headers/turbos/exhaust or something may need to be re-torqued, or if these cars just run rich at idle initially in combination with the straight pipes and new exhaust.

2. Clutch engagement is high, off the line is tough, going up my driveway while trying to feather the clutch is very difficult (never owned an automatic, so I'm good with clutch, this certainly feels like I'm learning all over again.) I read a few threads about removing the spring on the clutch pedal, I suppose I may try this to see if it helps a bit.

3. Clutch is not releasing all the way out, sticking at the half way point, we replaced the accumulator, tech thinks it's likely the clutch slave. No problem getting into gear, just the pedal is not returning all the way forward, pressing the clutch from the stuck position still allows me to change gears. Putting my foot behind the clutch pedal and giving it a nudge, pops it forward into the normal position.

Want to get some of these things addressed next week during my followup appt., figured it may speed the process along if I can help with the troubleshooting process.

I appreciate your feedback.

 

Why did yo go with some clutch that has no presence in the P car market... are you a ginny pig for some clutch company? if so then you should send it back and just get a sachs upgraded one and call it a day.. otherwise you will spend a fortunate figuring out someone else's problems...

Cold start is always a bit high idle( loud)...
did you get the injectors from protomotive? why did you get injectors for a k24/18g car?
do you have any boost leaks?

 

No boost leaks.

They were recommended, personally I thought injectors were optional and generally recommended to provide more fueling headroom. Tech worked with Protomotive directly on the tune and related adjustments.

https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...injectors.html

I didn't think it was taboo to do injectors, I had planned on adding a meth injection setup at some point.

 

Cold start is always louder due to the stock emissions airpump. It is not so noticeable with the stock exhaust but very much so with an aftermarket one like you have. When you first started the car after flashing it likely idled and ran rough for a few minutes because the DME (ecu) is reset (occurs from being flashed or if simply unplugged momentarily). It must re-learn certain variables to run smoothly which include those specific to each car as well as external to the car such as barometric pressure.

It was smart to upgrade fuel injectors if for no other reason but to give you safe margins. It's definitely not taboo. I don't understand Marksi's injector questions, but I agree with him that you went into uncharted waters with that clutch.

Good luck and let us know how it goes.

 

for a 18g car running up to 1.3 bar it is not needed ... a 5 bar FPR does the job and you save a lot on labor and parts... injectors are not cheap to change...
You will also need a 2nd pump eventually as the injectors alone will probably not do the job...
Now if you do meth injection that might be a diff. story...

 

I have rough idle at cold start too after i did injectors. Its goes away after a few mins, but happens every time the car is cold. I have catless Milltek. Someone told me it happens with cars with injectors ...can someone confirm?

 

After the airpump turns off (25-35 seconds) your idle should be factory smooth. If its not, then you should most likely make an appointment to have the injector install reviewed. This was done buy the same shop that had issues with the o2....correct?

 

#1 is likely airpump as before, but much louder now due to the new exhaust (Straight pipes) and rougher idle with upgraded injectors. Exhaust popping until about 30-40 seconds then everything idles perfect. Sounds like a race car now.

Hopefully when the clutch slave is fixed and spring removed, I will get a better idea as to whether or not this clutch is going to work for me on the street. Tech told me it would be driveable like stock, so obviously we may have an issue here. I've known him for some time, and he has treated me well, so hopefully we will be able to work this out.

Just in case I need to have him change the clutch out, does anyone have the part numbers for the upgraded Sachs clutch handy ? I assume this is very streetable clutch that will hold K24/18G power ?

I appreciate everyone's feedback.

 

I have the Clutch Masters stg 3 with my 24/18 set -up & so far I have been very happy with the engagement & stock clutch feel.

 

The idle is factory smooth after 35 secs during cold start. So i assume this is okay? I did not have any rough idle issues before the injectors, wondering if more fuel is causing this condition.

Also Tony did you review my datalogs?

+1 for Clutchmasters stage 3, excellent clutch stock like.

 

Congrats on the 18g's. I saw your post on my recent 18gs = lots of fun.

If you are opening up the car again, you really should check out the Slave delete kit from EVOMs. It increases pedal pressure, but provides more more feel. Not necessarily more travel on engagement, but certainly more feel. Others on this forum who have done this comment are also positive on the upgrade and I am really happy that I did it. Adding latter is much more expensive because you have to pay the labor to open the car up. BTW, to my knowledge EVOMs is the only one who sells this kit.

Also, I have the Clutch Masters stage II, which according to my tuner will hold the power (with meth kit), but I also don't track the car.

Good Luck.