When I had the GMG Sways installed they put them on the middle setting on both front and rear. I am doing my first DE track day in a few weeks and want to adjust them to soft front and hard rear.

My question is are they under load with one corner of the car jacked up (seems to me they would be)? What's the easiest way to adjust them without a lift? If I put jack stands under both sides does that take the load off and make it easy adjust? Are ramps better?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

unless they put in adjustable drop links the bars will be under pre-load....you could get adjustable links which makes adjustment a lot easier....for the fronts...if you turn your wheels to opposite lock you can reach in behind the tire and adjust the sway bar without jacking the car..to do the rear without jacking you have to be pretty slim and willing to get dirty...please note that toward the bar is stiffer and away from the bar is softer...if you go full soft in the front and full stiff in the rear the car will likely oversteer (be ready for it)...unless you already think the car pushes like a pig I wouldn't go that extreme..leave them where they are for your first run or at most set them one from full soft (front) and one from full stiff (rear) and see if the car pushes (understeers) or is loose (oversteer) and adjust from there. Be mindful that if you are running 7/10 or higher that tire pressures are just as important..

 

Always adjust the bars with both wheels of an axle loaded the same amount (or unloaded the same amount), so lift both rears up to adjust or roll up on ramps. I prefer ramps on track when I have any with me, makes it super easy and super fast to change settings, no need to take wheels off, lift the car, place jackstands etc.

Mid settings are usually a good start, unless car is really pushing heavy (like a pig as said by above poster), then I'd first start to soften the front and leave the rear alone and only go to the rear end if you really still can't adjust enough to get rid of the push/understeer.

These cars run very very well with a good amount of roll softness in the rear, these cars cope much better to make fast laptimes with a soft rear than a too stiff rear.

 

Can you elabrate?.....I understand the 'too stiff rear'......but out of the box these cars are soft in the rear.

BTW...ditto on adjustable drop links....a must.

 

I've done several track days since switching to theses sways, mid settings on both have worked wonders, you can't imagine. The car is much more neutral through tighter turns. I believe the increased stiffness in these bars was designed that the relative stiffness rear to front increased hence the front got stiffer but relatively softer compared to the rear with the GMG sways in the center positions. I am using the OEM droplinks and am really happy with the setup. I wouldn't recommend changing anything else as far as the sways are concerned until you have done several track sessions/days on them.
I've said it before on here, the sways alone made a night and day difference to the car at the track, you made a great choice going with them!

 

I bought a set of bars from TPC and was told to set the front bar on the second hole from soft and the rear bar on full soft. I found that the rear end had too much weight shifting going on so moved it to second hole from soft and the car is now neutral.

 

I wouldn't go as far as to compare a "mid" setting on a GMG / Eibach swaybar to the softness of the out of the box swaybars.

To elaborate: As touched by boss in earlier post, a good set of sways like the Eibach kit or from other serious companies, are already set to give a very neutral setup. The Eibach ones are slightly stiffer overall and mostly provide a better balance already in the mid-ish settings. So the message is advise to not set the sways towards oversteer, in addition to what is already being done by replacing the sways in the first place to a balanced set.

 

Aren't you trying to correct understeer? Why would TPC tell you to set the rear to full soft. It would seem that a tighter rear and softer front would do this better.

 

Most of the understeer in my car was eliminated from the replacement of all the various control arms, lowering the car, and a track alignment. R compound tires help too. I also am running spacers, 7mm front and 15mm rear, but just read that this messes with the scrub radius and makes steering more difficult, while putting the car on a wider track improves handling, it causes more strain in the wheel bearings. maybe MrWhite will explain more about the scrub radius and it's importance.

TPC's theory is that the 32mm hollow front bar works diagonally thru the chassis to calm the rear end, at least that is the way I understood what they told me. The full soft rear bar didn't work for me, the rear felt unstable like towing a trailer when it was swaying from side to side. Second from soft in the rear eliminated that and made the rear wheels follow the fronts which if I understand the concept correctly means the car is balanced.