I'm certainly no braking expert, but I do track my car frequently. I think the stock brakes work great. If you want to improve your brake performance my advice would be:
1. Pilot sport cup tires (huge increase in grip vs stockers) Makes a quantum leap in cornering and braking performance. Worth 2-3 seconds a lap on our local 1.8 mile circuit.
2. Change your brake fluid if it is more than a couple months old. This will stop fade due to the boiling of water saturated brake fluid. The motive products power bleeder make this a 50 minute job even if you've never done it before. (ATE super blue, Motul, Castrol SRF, take your pick.)
3. Pagid orange brake pads. If you really push it with fresh brake fluid, you can get pad fade with the stock pads. Plus the stock pads wear out faster. As they get really hot, they seem to lose some of the initial "bite." Beware, your brakes will squeel like a transit bus. If you can't handle the looks from people who are wondering why you haven't "fixed dem brakes on yer hunert grand porsh", then don't install these. Also, you may want to start planning for your next set of rotors as they do seem to be wearing and cracking a bit more with these pads. There is a big improvement to be had in high temperature performance over the stock pads.
With these three things, I haven't been able to significantly fade my brakes in a 30 minute session on a relatively brake intensive race track (4 straights with heavy braking zones each lap). Granted, a better and more aggressive driver probably could. I don't think you could fade them on the street unless you drive on the street like you do on the track.

 

did you find out anything from perfect today re: the for sure weight diff between their product and oem?

 

Sorry. Been offline for hours driving to some place cooler for the weekend. As for weight, call me an extremist! I'm looking for the best power to weight ratio, handling, and stopping power... for the street, backroads, and maybe an occassional auto-x or solo track run (there is a guy out here that runs private track days). But, the car's just too damned pretty right now to track it with the usual cast of track day characters... falling off track, throwing up rocks and debris, spinning across track. I have the Bimmer for that kind of abuse.

 

Don't forget about the Optima battery for some high center of gravity weight removal.

 

Chad -

Good idea. How much weight does the Optima save?

By the way, how is it that the TT electric fan (the one that turns on after you shut the car off) is able to operate at extended periods without draining the battery? This may be a dumb question, but is the Optima battery up to the task of powering that fan after you shut off the ignition?

TIA,

 

I believe the Optima is about 14 pounds. Weight savings is 20+ pounds. It is up to the task, but you cannot leave the car un used for extended periods or it will drain the battery. I use an automatic battery disconnect from Griots Garage. That way I always have power to start.
www.griotsgarage.com

 

Too bad installing an Optima battery means you have to start drilling etc.. to mount it.

 

sharkster.

Use your imagination before you drill.

 

heh? Not my world-famous duct tape again...

 

Uh......imagine a little harder. Then again, I might be under estimating your world famous duct tape.

 

OK so I did find this: http://www.dietersmotorsports.com/tech/2002/02-2003.htm

dang, I'll have to get the wife to make a mounting plate. All that trouble for a few pounds. Maybe I could shed 10 pounds if I stopped eating McDonalds

 

sharkster, I'm so proud of you.

 

LOL well... If I do the optima battery, stop Eating MickeyD's I figure I'll take some weight off the front. I already pulled out the spare, tools etc... Mind you, my H&R sway bar is heavier than the stocker. But my K58's are much lighter (19 front 21 rear) as are the Pilot Sport Cups... My car still is chubby at 3400