Super Blue Racing ATE Brake Fluid
Super Blue Racing ATE Brake Fluid
Hi,
In 2005, 5 years ago, I had buy a bottle of Super Blue Racing ATE Brake Fluid (like the picture).
This bottle never been opened.
This break fluid is good for use or is out of date?
Thanks
In 2005, 5 years ago, I had buy a bottle of Super Blue Racing ATE Brake Fluid (like the picture).
This bottle never been opened.
This break fluid is good for use or is out of date?
Thanks
If it's never been opened and stil has the inner seal, it should be fine. Brake fluid is hydroscopic and goes "bad" when it absorbes water which lowers the boiling point.
In any case, you'll notice if the boiling point is lower...
In any case, you'll notice if the boiling point is lower...
Until they get brake fad, then they switch. The 996TT is a heavy and fast car. Braking from 150mph a number times and you boil NotSuper Blue. Go with Motul 600 or SRF and forget about brake issues.
Last edited by landjet; Jul 10, 2010 at 08:06 AM.
I agree with landjet on getting the motul or castrol, however that brake fluud is still good and if you are a novice driver should be ok on the track as long as its not too hot and the track isnt really hard on the brakes.
surely ok for the street.
i would call or email ate to be sure though. brake failure on track is not fun. will be fine on the street though.
surely ok for the street.
i would call or email ate to be sure though. brake failure on track is not fun. will be fine on the street though.
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Alex, when you start to progress, you'll boil it. ATE in the 996TT is a horrible solution for performance braking. There's an excellent thread on renntrack about brakestuff...It has boiling points for all the big brands. Check the 996TT section...
NH
NH
ATE Super Blue/Type 200 is not bad stuff. It's not of the same caliber as the new generation racing fluids (like motul 600), but it will provide good enough performance for a stock(ish) 996TT with good pads. It has a higher wet boiling point than most commonly available fluids, so it will perform quite well in comparison to anything you can buy at the local parts store. In other words, it's a good step up from a 'normal' fluid.
All of that said, I use SRF in my race cars. It's actually not very expensive in the long term since it has a higher wet boiling point that most fluids have dry. That allows me to flush the systems far less frequently and still have reliable braking. With lesser fluids you really should flush the fluid all the way through when bleeding for a track day/race. Otherwise the contaminated fluid that's been sitting in the reservoir exposed to air will end up making its way down to the calipers after a couple bleeds. Then that same contaminated fluid will boil more easily due to it being closer to its wet boiling point.
IMO, if you are boiling ATE at a track day, you are not braking hard enough!
And to answer the original post - throw it away. New fluid is cheap insurance.
All of that said, I use SRF in my race cars. It's actually not very expensive in the long term since it has a higher wet boiling point that most fluids have dry. That allows me to flush the systems far less frequently and still have reliable braking. With lesser fluids you really should flush the fluid all the way through when bleeding for a track day/race. Otherwise the contaminated fluid that's been sitting in the reservoir exposed to air will end up making its way down to the calipers after a couple bleeds. Then that same contaminated fluid will boil more easily due to it being closer to its wet boiling point.
IMO, if you are boiling ATE at a track day, you are not braking hard enough!
And to answer the original post - throw it away. New fluid is cheap insurance.
I agree also. IMO, new guys tend to heat brakes more than experienced drivers who are going faster.
a friend of mine says look at it like this: that can of fluid cost about 12 bucks. Is there anything that could go south as a consequence of bad fluid that costs less than that?
I use Motul in my car.
Jon
a friend of mine says look at it like this: that can of fluid cost about 12 bucks. Is there anything that could go south as a consequence of bad fluid that costs less than that?
I use Motul in my car.
Jon
For a DD that doesn't track, it's fine. There are tons of guys in my club with older cars who use Super Blue. The thing is they are bleeding their brakes all the time. With SRF, I change it once a year and never have to bleed it, and have never had any kind of brake fade or problem. It's just a way better product for a fast and heavy car.
Last edited by landjet; Jul 13, 2010 at 02:44 PM.



