You can easily bleed the brakes between 15-20 psi - it was mentioned earlier that the max was 29 psi in the FSM. The Motive bleeder has a gauge on it and it is easily controlled through your hand pumps. An air compressor requires the use of a regulator, whereas the motive uses your hand pump motions while watching the gauge as the regulator.

 

So they must use the piwis to change the fluid or not?

 

Alex. I ask that question to Loren on Renntech before and he told me it is necessary only if you have replaced the master cylinder etc see link:http://www.renntech.org/forums/index..._1#entry186837

So I did not use it, replace the fluid using a motive bleeder, and everything works perfectly...

 

Hi All,

I stumbling across this thread while doing some market research -

Just wanted to address a few issues related to the thread when it comes to the Motive Bleeder -

I did see mention on a few replies about just using compressed air either directly from a compressor or using a product called Eezi Bleed which uses compressed air from your tires.

In both cases unless you have an air dryer in line you are taking air which is very high in moisture content due to it coming from a compressor that first compresses it to well over 100psi and then steps it down to what ever it is regulated to. So you are putting moisture and in most cases particulate matter into your nice new fresh brake fluid. The inside of tires and compressors can be fairly wet filthy places.

I don't know the rules of the forum for posting coupons and the such but if anyone wants a coupon for use by the forum please contact me off line.

thanks

Marco
support@motiveproducts.com

 

Hmmm, good timing with this revival...

How do these power bleeders NOT overfill the master cylinder? What I mean is, I'm assuming that when you crack a bleeder screw, it is pushing fluid in, right? When you are done making your way from the back to the front, bleeding and then go to the master to disconnect, is it already full or does it maintain the level you started with? No mess after?

 

is that gauge or absolute though?

 

Assuming your master cylinder is viewable when you're bleeding the front left caliper and it's translucent - you can do the following -

Tilt the bleeder tank away from the pick up tube (same side of the tank as the output hose) so that there is no fluid being pushed - just air pressure - continue bleeding the front left caliper as you are watching the fluid level in the m/c reservoir decrease to the max fill line, close the bleed screw on the caliper. Depressurize the bleeder tank.

Perfect fill.

Otherwise the bleeder will fill the reservoir to the top of the neck. When you depressurize the tank typically there is a small vacuum created as the pressure drops and a small amount of fluid will be sucked back into the tank, but not that much - then you need to use something to extract the excess fluid.

If you have any other questions please send them to support@motiveproducts.com. I wish I had time to surf the forums - but when you're running a small biz you barely have time to eat. Also I had some guys ask about a 6speedonline coupon as I mentioned one yesterday. I forgot we're in the midst of a change over to a new web store so giving a coupon now would result in it not working in a few days. In Lieu of a coupon just shoot me an email with your order number and I'll deduct 15% - mention 6speedonline when you send me the order number.

cheers

Marco

 

It has to be gauge because almost 28 pounds on the reservoir, it is a lot....

 

Small secret but don't tell anyone, I never put any fluid in my motive. I simply use it to pressurized the system and do about 2 brakes , remove it, fill the reservoir of the car , reconnect it, and re pressurized it.... My motive looks like brand new.

 

That's what I wa gonna do!!!! That's why I asked!!!!

 

Though I don't own a Porsche, I've used the Mityvac bleeder for years on many other cars and tube chassis.

http://www.mityvac.com/pages/products_bcbe.asp

 

Use the nitrogen bottle for your tires to keep 20 on it with the regulator. And it would eliminate contaminents in the air to keep oxygen out of the brake system, just like when used in tires, it has less change to temp, and slows oxidation.

 

No, it will fill up the master cylinder tank to the very top (beyond "max"). Just keep on bleeding until the tank in the motive runs dry. Tip it around to get every drop out of the tank/tube (thus easier cleanup). Even after it runs dry it will keep on pushing fluid out of the master cylinder. When it has pushed the fluid down below the max level in the master cylinder reservoir, close up your last bleed nipple, open the power bleeder lid to release pressure and you're done.

Now a question: how much should you crack the bleed nipples? Obviously the more you open them the faster the bleeding process. You can see bubbles start to appear in the bleeding tube if you open them up a lot. If you open them too far do you risk getting air into the system or will the positive pressure coming from the master cylinder prevent this?

 

The line is under positive pressure, this shouldn't happen. I've been using the Motive for years (many years, many cars), I just crack the nipples not too much more.

By the way guys, I had the tubes on the Motive rot on me (I'm guessing from the fluids). Had to replace them. I would have hated having a tube split under pressure. On that same note, if 20 psi works why use more? don't run the risk. Even if you're using a compressor or the Motive, if a tube blows off you could end up with "paint stripper" everywhere.

 

But what about flushing with non-factory fluid such as Castrol SRF? My understanding so far is that ALL fluid, including that in the ABS reservoir needs to be flushed. And the only way to actuate the ABS pump is via PIWIS or Durametric. Can someone confirm?