Over the years, I've tried just about everything for brake bleeding, including: someone in the car pumping the pedal, speed bleeder check valves, Motive pressurized bleeder, vacuum pump, ... You name it, I've tried it.

My indie recommended that I try a pressure system, and he loaned me his to give it a try. I have to say that it feels almost like cheating - it's so easy. It's a pressure tight cap that screws onto the brake fluid reservoir, that you then hook up to an air compressor. Set the regulator for 20 psi. (See photo 1.) Then just go wheel-to-wheel and crack open the bleed screws 1/2 turn and collect as much fluid as you like. (See photo 2.) Retighten the bleeder and you're done. I did the two rears first, then released the pressure and refilled the reservoir before doing the fronts. I think that I'll make a connector line so that I can take the air pressure off a tire so I can do it at the track.

It's made by Power Probe, and the one that fits our cars is BA05 (that's a zero). It's also not very expensive. I'm not posting the vendor or the price here to avoid any conflicts with the board policy.

Jon

 

Jon,

Looks good.. I've used the same type of brake bleeder adapter on my previous 2 cars. It does work well especially when you don't have an extra leg to pump the brakes while bleeding the calipers! haha..

 

How do you keep the reservoir filled with new brake fluid once you have the pressure line on the reservoir?

 

You don't. Read what Jon posted. He had to release the pressure and refill the master after doing two rear calipers. You'll have to keep an eye on the master cylinder. I use my motiv this way and never use it to fill the master with fluid.

Jon's unit is a cheaper solution...and more portible.

NH

 

I've read that anything over 12-15psi can bugger your MC and seals. Any thoughts on this?

 

My indie suggested 20 psi. 10 would do just as well. It might bleed a little bit slower.

You do have to keep an eye on the reservoir. If you let the fluid level drop below the bottom, you are filling the lines with air. I've found that if I fill my little catch bottle a little over 1/2 way at each wheel I can fill it twice without any danger of draining the reservoir.

Before starting at the wheels, I use a vacuum tool to suck out the fluid from the reservoir and refill with fresh.

Jon

 

According to the repair manual you can pressurized up to 2.0 bars which is over 29 pounds.... See second pics....

 

I'd think that the possibility of running the fluid level too low in the reservoir and getting air in the system would outweigh the more difficult solution of using a Motive bleeder. The reason I say "more difficult" is due to having to clean the Motive bleeder after use (at least I clean mine up). However, if you already have a Motive bleeder, you can simply use the existing reservoir bleeder cap. Disconnect the hose at the brass coupler, and add the appropriate coupler to your compressor line to connect to the reservoir cap. Unless I'm missing something, I don't see the need to buy another reservoir cap if you already have a Motive bleeder.

Another useful use for those with Motive bleeders is using it as a pump to check your turbo waste gate adjustment. You can easily take the bleeder cap off and rig up a piece of vacuum line to connect to the pressure fitting on your waste gates (on the stock turbos anyway). The gauge on the Motive bleeder is not super precise, but mine is pretty accurate and easily readable to within about half a psi. Hook it up and start pumping, paying close attention to when the waste gate cracks and the pressure gauge. I've found this to be a pretty simple solution to checking the adjustment without buying yet another limited purpose tool.

 

Can't beat the service manual for the straight poop. Thanks.

 

Jon - great idea. I'd always used the Motive as the pressure source but this is even simpler.

 

good idea,but dont forget to drain the water from the air compressor before the job

 

The Motive bleeder has the advantage that it supplies fluid directly to the reservoir, keeping it full (as noted in earlier post). The down side is that there is a lot of cleanup. To each his own.

Jon

 

Considering I am due for brake flush I think I'll try this. Thanks for the post!

 

Not sure I understand how this is better than the Motive that insures you won't run out of fluid. It's exactly the same as the air compressor method, including the cap which is curiously similar to the one that's supplied with the Motive pressure tank, without having the problem of running the system dry and no need to refill the system. As for the clean up , if you follow the Motive directions, I found there to be no cleanup issues to deal with.

 

in order to have a correct bleeding,PIWIS is needed...It is written in service manual...It opens a bleed valve from psm unit and let it bleed from trapped air...(through front left or right caliper,cant recall...)