for whatever it's worth, me and several other members are using the stock GT2 line with no leaks.

 

Thanks for the info gearhead...now i'm just trying to build up the courage to tackle this myself

 

So I'm having this GT2 clutch slave conversion done, but my installer saw some notable issues with the shaft for the clutch slave cylinder. Since the OEM one is held in with a boot, and the GT2 one is held in with a stop machined at the end, he said it was silly to use the OEM slave cylinder shaft that could and would simply fall off into the bellhousing (either during installation, or during future servicing). Plus it doesn't even sit very well when it's shoved into the new GT2 slave cylinder. For comparison, the rod on the left is the OEM slave cylinder shaft and the rod on the right is GT2 one. Both have already been sectioned...


He basically sectioned the two pieces with a lathe and created one (via tig welding) that would not only stay in the new GT2 slave cylinder, but would also point straight out for easier installation alignment..... the best of all worlds! The overall length is the same as the OEM slave cylinder rod. Here is the final product:


PM me if anyone else is doing this mod right now or plans to and might want this done, I'm sure he can do it and send the parts back with a pretty quick turnaround time. Can't wait to try out the upgraded GT2 conversion!

 

I had a local welder do this also, including extending the rod .5" for a higher engagement point.

 

Yeah, that explains why some folks had been posting before that their engagement point was pretty far down when you press the clutch. I am willing to bet, that it was installed with the original GT2 rod.

I think the best thing about doing this is when you take out the GT2 slave to replace it the next time, that OEM rod won't have a chance to fall into the bellhousing which would be a nightmare!

 

So after a couple of days driving, I figured I would give my impressions of the GT2 upgrade.

1) Clutch pedal is firmer but exactly what a sports car should feel like. Before, it felt so soft and vague and feathering it was ridiculously difficult.
2) Engagement point is exactly as before with the OEM assembly. If any of you have done this mod and the engagement point is closer to the floor, most likely it's because of the rod length. Either the installer did not replace the rod and used the GT2 rod or he used the OEM one which is still shorter. See my previous posts on how to build a better rod.
3) Driving in traffic is EASIER. Although the pedal is slightly firmer, the engagement is linear and predictable and I don't have to spend time tensing my muscles to feather the pedal like the previous soft OEM pedal feel. I have driven Ford Mustangs and other cars with a lot firmer clutch feel than the GT2 upgrade.

Bottom line: If the rod is the correct length, this mod is a no-brainer. Should be done regardless of whether your clutch accumulator goes bad or not! The biggest issues to be aware of are the rod length and the hose length if you decide to source the parts yourself. Even if you purchase the EVOMS kit, you will still have to fabricate the rod length to the correct dimensions to get the stock engagement point.

Thanks to gearhead for trailblazing the mod road for us all!

 

I've just been given a used master cylinder for this mod

Am I ok to use a used part here?
Can/Do the GT2 master cylinders ever fail?

Or am I ok to use the second hand item?

 

Much respect to the DIY guys who pioneered this one!

 

finished the conversion and what a difference.
- Is it a harder pedal = yes, quite different
- Is it unbearable = no and the more you drive it the better you will like it
- Is it a better feel = yes (agree with bng4god comment, much improved activation point and release from standstill)

A few other notes during the conversion:
- I did not take the lower brace off. Plenty of room with it in place. One less thing to put back.
- Getting to the location where the EVOMS kit provides the plugs is almost impossible. I also worried about leaks and getting to them in time. So, for the original flex hose, I cut it on one of the straight sections and used a bolt. No leaks. I left the hard line in place and in stock condition. I made a M12 brass plug, threaded right into the hardline fitting and worked like a charm. Zip tied it all for additional support to the clip right above it.

Very happy with the "upgrade". Thanks to everyone who has done a write up on this subject, particularly gearhead and moto for the bracket.

 

No problem guys glad to help. Bng4god nice job on making the rod better. At the time I though about how much I hated the fact the rod didn't want to sit in the slave very well but I was almost done with the install and it was 11 at night so went for it. It's what evoms was doing so I figured it would work. And happily it still does with no issues. But nice addition.

 

Always happy to contribute - it's what makes this forum so great!

 

I kept the stock boot on the shaft and used a two pieces of electrical tape to hold the boot to the new slave. That way I didn't have to hold the shaft. If I ever remove it, I can still hold the boot. The welded shaft is a good addition. I was going to make a new shaft on the lathe but got lazy.

 

Who wants to come to the UK and fit mine lol

 

Does anyone have an OEM slave shaft sitting around? I'd like to do bng4god's mod to the GT2 shaft before I pull my car apart. I'll obviously replace the shaft with my OEM one once I do the GT2 slave install.

 

Sure, fly me out and I will do it for ya, I need a vacation

If anyone is interested, I can also machine some rods to spec so you dont have two weld to pieces together.