I always make sure to have no boost for the last few miles before my house. (The 'no boost zone') hehe
Anyway, that no boost plus the engine revs around 3k rpm should be sufficient in cooling them enough to where I can shut down at home right away.

Am I wrong here?

 

That helps, but doesn't really do the trick. If you could watch your EGTs you would see that idle they can still drop 2-300 degrees with a minute or two. That is very critical. The only thing you are out in time is turbos

 

Good to know!

I'm idling at shut down from now on.

So how much damage may i have done to this point w/ 14k miles and following my normal driving habits?

 

On the contrary, to let the car idle til the car is fully warmed up causes more premature wear than otherwise. When you simply let the car sit and idle, the amount of time or process of warming up the car actually takes much longer.

The idea is that once the car has been fired for 30seconds or so, to drive off OFF LOAD and OFF BOOST at LOW RPMS. This keeps cold-start wear to a minimum while promoting the internals to warm up considerably faster than merely idling.

 

Sorry Benjamin, but I believe you "imagined" incorrectly. If you started it and drove for ten minutes under 2000 rpm's your oil temp would be below 150 degrees. Getting on it at this time would cause premature wear to your motor. Then again, maybe Mobil doesn't know what they are doing?

 

Before rolling your eyes like a school girl, all I'm saying is, in this case, follow the owner's manual. There's no need to have the car idle for any amount of time before moving just as it says in the manual that Porsche ... not Mobil... not Yamaha... not 50 Cent ...wrote. I'm assuming all of you here do not drive your Porsche in the snow. This applies to OBDII Nissans, Hondas, Toyotas, BMWs, etc etc etc there is NO need to let the car idle unless you are driving in EXTREMELY cold conditions

Some of you really need to keep it simple. Read your owner's manual and follow what it says. If you want to warm-up do it.

It's not life or death. it's just a car.

And just to keep things in perspective at another level... the 996 Turbo block is VERY durable. I mean look at some of these speed/hp nuts pushing additional ponies out of an already fast car... they're doing it pretty reliably. whether you idle or choose not to idle... makes very very little in impact oon your car's long-term longevity/performance.

Splitting hairs

 

Mental note; Buy used car from Benjamin Choi.

 

So Chad,

Is using the, "when the engine will actually read oil temp without saying not warmed up", a good benchmark for 158 degrees? In other words, will the engine electronically measure oil when the oil is not completely up to temp?

Thanks,
Ted.

 

Yes, that is when the oil thermostat opens up. Keep in mind that the case and lower end is not water cooled so it will not want to reach operating temp while idling. An old 911 will never reach operating temp at idle when cold outside.

BTW, I do use mine year around and still even when it is 10 degrees give it 2 minutes warm up then wait until opt temp is reached.

 

cold start and cold idle are murder on an engine....the oil isn't circulating hardly at all and you have lots of metal to metal contact on cam journals, bearings, etc... starting it cold and letting it ilde to temp is one of the worst things you can do for longevity. This is EXACTLY why I would never buy a car with a reomote starter in it and why you will never see them istalled or recomended by manufactures...

imagine the dead of winter, oil in the pan is like molases, and you puch a button and to turn the motor over and let it ilde sitting there at 800 or so rpms....how long do you think it is before the head sees the 1st drop of oil? I'd say in a flat motor with a sump it not quite as severe as say a inline dohc motor, but you get the idea...


on the other end shutting down with overly hot turbos causes the oil in the bearings to pool, boil, and turn to varnish...not what you want on your turbo bearings...

-davew

 

Ted,

There may be some room to argue a brief warm up and then keeping it under 2000 rpm's for approximate 16 to 20 miles. If you think your car is warmed up to the point of getting on it when the water temperature first reaches 180 degrees then I have an Island I want to sell you. Your oil would be lucky to to at 100 degrees at that point. It is really a false sense of security. Bare in mind, my tests and experience was in 50 to 70 degree ambient temperatures.

 

If you're using Mobil 0W-40 you don't have to worry about oil circulation after starting the engine in cold weather.


0W-40 motor oil has a cold cranking viscosity of 6200 centipoise (cP) at -35 degrees centegrade (-31 degrees F). It also has a pumping cP maximum of 60,000 cP at -40 degrees centegrade (-40 degrees F).

If you're living where it's colder than -40 F then you need to be concerned.

 

According to the oil manufacturer's you need to be concerned if you are pushing your car and the oil isn't warmed up.

 

Oh believe me, I agree.

My point is that there is plenty of idle oil protection after a cold weather start, and there's no need to jump in, crank and drive in cold weather just because you think there is no protection.

I idle warm up my Turbo in both hot *and* cold weather. The 0W-40 will provide initial start up protection in either case.

I'll also add that I hardly *ever* get white smoke on start. I personally believe it's from proper warm up and from idle cool downs.

 

Exactly how much wear are we talking here, if we don't follow this ultra-cautious warm up procedure?

Most of my drives (~99%) are less than 15 miles, so this makes it sound like I must never punch the throttle.