To help you help me solve the problem, here is the story on my new (used) car that won’t start and suddenly it started.

I just purchased a 2004 911 Turbo cabriolet with manual transmission with 33,600 miles from Texas on Mar. 1st, 2011. Drove it back to California on Mar. 3rd (1,550 miles). I have driven it every day since but short distances (maybe 3-5 miles before turning it off). When the car is at home, it is not lock because I was thinking the alarm will drain the battery.

On Mar. 9th, took it to an audio shop to diagnose why the aftermarket (Pioneer AVIC-Z110BT) radio reception is weak since I got the car. The Technician tried to drive it into the garage and it stalled. He can not get the car to restart. I jumped in; remove the key because the dash said to remove the key, reinsert, and the car started right up. They found the wires are not connected properly and rewired it (now radio reception is good). I then drove directly to a smog test station to have the car smog tested (passed). That evening, I drove the car again and no problem.

Prior to this day especially the drive from Texas to California which I always not sure if the door is locked or not, I do not remember the horn beeps when I lock the car, but at least for the evening of Mar. 9th, I heard the horn beeped (1 beep) after lock. Didn’t think anything of it because I thought it suppose to beep so you know you locked the car.

On Mar. 10th, the car won’t start. There is a “creaking” sound that lasted for about 1 to 2 seconds when I turn the key (I assume it is priming the fuel pump). All the lights work. At this point, I turned off the Pioneer radio but the GPS portion of the radio is always on. Tried charging with a very old portable jumper/charger (that I have not used for 2-3 years) with the battery disconnected for about 2 hours, the voltage seems to stay the same. Tried jump start and still won’t start. Also tried both keys.

On Mar. 11th, tried lock and unlock with remote and with key on door (when locking, horn didn’t beep). Still won’t start. Visually check the clutch relay and the connection seems ok. The screw holding the relay to the frame was loose so I tighten it and touch the space connectors to make sure they are in (they didn’t move). I also touch (push) all the relays next to the driver quarter panel. Took the battery to auto part store to check battery and battery is ok. Put the battery back and the car started. Turned off and on, and it started again with no problem.


I also noticed that when it won't start, somehow the cruise control will be on (the green light on the instrument lights up) even after I put the key back to off position and other warning lights are off. But when it was able to start, the cruise control light is not on.


So is the problem caused by the faulty radio connection (I have the radio turned off since Mar. 10th still because I am afraid if I turn it on, it will not let the car start again) and the car computer reset itself after I had the battery out? Then why on Mar. 10th, I had the radio off and disconnected the negative terminal; the computer didn’t reset and allow me to start after I had it off for 2 hours (on Mar. 11th, the battery is out of the car for 5 hours until I find time to take it to the part store to have it checked)? Is it because 2 hours is not long enough for the computer to reset or because the positive terminal still on?

Can the problem be the clutch relay being loose from the frame (the 2 wire space connectors seems to be on and not move when I touch them)?

Or is it something else that is intermittent and can happen anytime and cause me to be stranded?

 

When my battery died, it made an odd sound when a I tried to crank it over. Almost startling me a bit. The battery just didn't have enough cranking power to turn the engine over but everything else worked. I tried my trusty battery charger and it didn't help.

I purchased a new battery and that fixed it. Take your battery out, drive over to Sears or wherever and have them test it.

That certainly would rule that out. From there it could be ignition switch related or the clutch switch, at least these are common possibilities.

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I can scan you car for codes, I'm in Laguna Hills. Wouldn't be until Sunday, if you can wait. Let me know.



Jonas

 

I did take the battery out and tested at Pep Boys. There are no date code on the battery or specified CCA so he just randomly entered 2 different setting. Both tests came out good.

Thanks for the offer to scan. Before we do that, will the computer remember the faults or would it reset since I removed the battery?

 

What's the voltage gauge reading when you have the key inserted and turned to the on position? If I recall correctly, the needle should be slightly above 12. When I had a bad battery, the car exhibited some of the symptoms you are now describing. Mainly, clicking sound when I tried to start the car but everything else electrical still worked (i.e., radio, lights, etc.). At that time, my voltage gauge was reading slightly below 12, not enough juice to start the car.

 

It was sounding more like a battery, but he said he had it checked so who knows.

C_Fooo we could put my battery in your car as well, just to make sure.

There must be a way to bypass the clutch switch, by creating a bridge of some kind, this would rule that out. I haven't had this issue yet, so I haven't had to troubleshoot it.

 

The voltmeter gauge on the car said over 12 volts when I wasn't able to start but I am not sure if there is any difference when I am able to start. Just took it to Kragen O'reilly to check the charging system and all is fine.

On the way back from Kragen O'reilly, I turned on the radio. Will have to see if I am able to start tomorrow.

 

in Laguna Hills, he's the man

 

Hi Jonas,


Would it have wiped the fault codes if the battery is removed? If not, scanning sounds like a good idea. I am available Sunday afternoon.

Luther

 

Just because the battery tested "OK" doesn't mean it won't give you issues.

Worth replacing with an Interstate- batteries only last 3-4 years- plus these cars are hard on batteries...

 

Sunday works, I'm not sure about whether they reset or not, I'm fairly certain it depends on the type of code, certain more critical codes I believe must be cleared by a Durametric or via the dealers PIWIS system. Certain soft codes can be reset by battery disconnect and some codes will clear out automatically if the problem doesn't meet certain thresholds (intermittent issues).

My email is jsbear@gmail.com

 

a fuel pump relay on its way out could cause what you are describing. i have seen ones on the way out that will send voltage to prime the pump and then cut out leaving you unable to start the car

996 615 101 00, Fuel Pump Relay

should cost around $20

 

When I am not able to start, the engine didn't turn at all. If fuel pump/fuel pump relay issue, would it not let it turn?

 

nope, sorry

 

Have you tried your spare key? It could be the transponder in your key fob went bad.

 

I only have 2 keys and both have the remote. I did tried both keys and even used the key to manually open the door thinking maybe is the alarm stopping the car from starting.

See the pic for the loose part that I tighten by the clutch. It look like a switch and not relay. But it is not the red/black lever switch that is sensing the clutch position.

Not sure if this gray part has anything to do with the clutch and if itis loose, could it cause it not start?