I hear ya. It's not a light car so if you really want to be safe, best to run the highest octane that's affordable if you're going to push it. I'm sure your friends at VP know what they are talking about. It all depends on the fuel too. For instance, pump fuel which uses ethanol as an octane booster is fairly volatile. So I would be concerned about leaving pump fuel stagnant for any length of time since ethanol will evaporate. If you use C16, a leaded fuel, then it's the lead that serves as the anti-knock agent so evaporation is less of an issue because lead is not going to evaporate. In any event, I agree that leaving fuel stagnant is not the best thing.

 

Ok campers. I made up my mind.

I talked to Dan at Vivid and am buying the K16/16G turbos and 60 lb injectors along with an updated tune package.

I upgraded the brakes awhile ago.

Looks like I've got some shopping to do for GT2 clutch packages in the near future. Expect more inane questions.

Last night I added billet diverter valves from Speedtech.

I need to take a break while I wait for all this goodness to get here. I think I hear the wife's Mercedes calling me....

Jim

 

Yeah, I can't know everything to the expert level. So, I go with some 'facts' as they present them to me and try not to mess with it.


Jim

 

That clutch should be changed if you are going with 16g's, a few hard pulls and it CAN be toast (not necc will tho), I went with 72 lb injectors, IC, DV's, all that, i love my car.

 

GT2 clutch will probably be ordered next. I'm methodical.

I need to look at any options. Although I tend to take the factory option that meets the need. I was going to go with X50 turbo components but couldn't get the deal to fall the way I wanted it. Bummer.

See "thread on all the other stuff I bought to support the turbo upgrade.

Jim

 

I don't think the K16/16G are the same turbo as the K16 Billets. Your title says Billet where this last post is K16/16G. I thought the Billets are the 'new' tech that spool really quickly and produce crazy TQ, while the 16Gs are older tech, but larger wheel so they flow more than stock.

Right?

 

It would seem to me that it would have been better to sell your car and get a 997 turbo is you wanted to do it the "factory" way.

Later, Steve

 

You should look into the billet k16.. by 911 tuning or switzer

 

That's my basic understanding too. I went with this after talking to my friend the tuner today because he said he was more comfortable with the 16G and the Softronic package. Doesn't much matter to me. Both were available from Vivid at a decent price and in stock with no exchange required up front. This minimizes the amount of time my car is burning up goodwill sitting in someone else's shop waiting for rebuilds.

Jim

 

Absolutely, they are not the same, my billets make gobs and gobs of torque (xxx more torque than HP)

or AMS!

 

I'm negotiating with the dealer right now on a 997 Turbo S Vert. Some solutions aren't either/or, they are both.

Jim

 

If you are looking into bigger turbos, don't do a GT2 clutch. The GT2 clutch pressure plate doesn't have the required clamping pressure needed for 16Gs or larger. The only difference between a GT2 clutch and a 996TT is the disc is non-sprung on the GT2 and the 996TT is sprung. The sprung disc makes no difference when it comes to the abuse caused by extra torque. The sprung disc is what you want if you intend to go with a LWFW. The combination of LWFW and un-sprung hub is quite harsh.

 

Recommendations? I have no preconceptions on this one. Also, what do people think of the GT2 slave conversion?

Jim

 

Jspporsche, I'll tell you tomorrow morning

 

Clutchmaster fibertough setup. And definitely do the gt2 slave.