Q for those with K16 billets
Evoms sells a kit for the conversion and I believe there is a thread somtime ago where somebody bought all the parts separately and listed everything you need.
Last edited by Nor Cal Turbo; Jun 17, 2011 at 08:15 AM.
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I'm working with a forum member to buy a kit right now. I guess he bought it and doesn't need it.
I'll definitely buy a clutch this next week. What's the verdict on LWFWs? I'm kind of hard in hearing on the high end, so I probably won't hear the rattle. Do the P-Cars have to have the ECU flashed to up the idle like BMWs to prevent stalling?
Who's FW is the best choice? I saw some buy the GT3 RS flywheel. Good choice or not?
Jim
I'll definitely buy a clutch this next week. What's the verdict on LWFWs? I'm kind of hard in hearing on the high end, so I probably won't hear the rattle. Do the P-Cars have to have the ECU flashed to up the idle like BMWs to prevent stalling?
Who's FW is the best choice? I saw some buy the GT3 RS flywheel. Good choice or not?
Jim
HI,I was going to go this route after my HP clutch install made my car harder drive off the line...BUT....I first tryed the trick, to remove the booster spring set-up from clutch pedal linkage....It made that small amount of difference to make the car easier to feel the clutch off the line....So,I did not need the GT-2 set-up then......Just my info....Good Luck
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If you are looking into bigger turbos, don't do a GT2 clutch. The GT2 clutch pressure plate doesn't have the required clamping pressure needed for 16Gs or larger. The only difference between a GT2 clutch and a 996TT is the disc is non-sprung on the GT2 and the 996TT is sprung. The sprung disc makes no difference when it comes to the abuse caused by extra torque. The sprung disc is what you want if you intend to go with a LWFW. The combination of LWFW and un-sprung hub is quite harsh.
By the way... You K16 Billet guys... What clutches are you running? I'm looking at upgrading my clutch and would go to a AWE Sachs stage 2.5-type mod. Upgrade the pressure plate to a sachs 764 which is is good to 659 ft-lbs. I think this is commonly referred to as a stage 3 pressure plate... I'd then stick with a stage 2 disc. You think that's sufficient for the K16 billets?
91 octane, tiptronic, 1.3bar, all the bolt-ons, K16/16G with 5bar, Mustang Dyno. 500awhp/560ft/lbs of torque. That is gobs on our Dyno for a basic upgrade. http://www.vividracing.com/blog/gall...94&gallery=495 Eitherway - Markski said it best, listen to the customer, give your advice, here his wants, find a solution. Plus hands down proven time and time again, has some of the fastest cars.
Last edited by vividracing; Feb 1, 2014 at 08:32 PM.
And if you want a good clutch, do OUR Clutch Masters Stage 3 Full Disk. I ran this in my 997TT making 760awhp. It did 2 Texas Mile events, 5000 street miles, 6 or so Drag events, 2 road races, and drives smooth as butter. Clutch Masters uses Sachs components. I put this in all 996TT and 997TT with the stock flywheel and sometimes their LWFW with nothing but success. http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/a...34-hdf&x=0&y=0
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