996 tt lower directions
996 tt lower directions
OK here we go....
first the back of the car is pie. take the wheels off and or go inside the car first. then on the interior remove the bose is equipped by taking the small front vanity cover off then there is a torques bit silver in color behind it. remove that and slide the bose forward and out. then remove the carpet and there is the top of the struts. those three bolts come out.
at the wheel. take off the bottom bolt that holds the cup to the lower control arm. then the sway bar links that go to the strut. then up and out it comes. they are not under and tension so no spring commpressor is needed. replace springs as necessary.
to the front, this looks a little scary but not that bad. when u look at it and say "does all that come off" the answer is yes. don't get scared at that point just make sure you have all the right tools and a quality 1/2 drive air ratchet.
when u start remove the below pictured bolts (lower ball joint, steering arm, and strut bolts on top.) you will need a 32mm to remove the bolt that holds the front axle in the hub. when removed is should come right out with a tap of a mallet.
when u take those items off lift the assembly off the lower ball joint and sit in on a 4x4 block or in your lap if your strong. when u do this tilt the top of the strut out of the wheel well and you have to have a buddy for this. have the buddy replace the spring while you hold it. WATCH FOR THE BRAKE LINE AND THE SENSOR LINES. THEY WILL BREAK IF NOT CAREFUL.
then reinsert the strut and bolt everything back together. it took us about 3.5 hours with a shop and all the tools
any questions let me know. if you follow this its not that bad.
curtis
first the back of the car is pie. take the wheels off and or go inside the car first. then on the interior remove the bose is equipped by taking the small front vanity cover off then there is a torques bit silver in color behind it. remove that and slide the bose forward and out. then remove the carpet and there is the top of the struts. those three bolts come out.
at the wheel. take off the bottom bolt that holds the cup to the lower control arm. then the sway bar links that go to the strut. then up and out it comes. they are not under and tension so no spring commpressor is needed. replace springs as necessary.
to the front, this looks a little scary but not that bad. when u look at it and say "does all that come off" the answer is yes. don't get scared at that point just make sure you have all the right tools and a quality 1/2 drive air ratchet.
when u start remove the below pictured bolts (lower ball joint, steering arm, and strut bolts on top.) you will need a 32mm to remove the bolt that holds the front axle in the hub. when removed is should come right out with a tap of a mallet.
when u take those items off lift the assembly off the lower ball joint and sit in on a 4x4 block or in your lap if your strong. when u do this tilt the top of the strut out of the wheel well and you have to have a buddy for this. have the buddy replace the spring while you hold it. WATCH FOR THE BRAKE LINE AND THE SENSOR LINES. THEY WILL BREAK IF NOT CAREFUL.
then reinsert the strut and bolt everything back together. it took us about 3.5 hours with a shop and all the tools
any questions let me know. if you follow this its not that bad.
curtis
I did the front different took about 25 min to do . I removed sway bar links then I marked and loosened bolt on spring cup perch which allows you to spin it around to gain acces to bottom of spring. Using flat head screw driver I popped out bottom of spring allowing to spin the spring down the strut. Removed the 3 strut bolts on top, then removed Axel nut which allowed assembly to drop just enough to compress and pull strut assembly out just enough to remove strut upper turn table and remove spring. Put new spring on spun it down strut like stock spring, put strut turntable back on bolted down compressed with me hands and pushed strut back into position lined up turn table to the 3 holes bolted then bolted down. I then spun spring back up strut and popped into position. Spun cup back into place put bolt back in and bolted sway bar link back on then tightened Axel nut down and DONE.... Sounds like a bunch of work but seriously was super easy and no joke 25 min to do both sides...
i did this write up for many people out there that ran into the same problem i did.
im glad yours was done in 25 minutes, highly unlikely.
it sounds to me like you do not have an AWD turbo. with a front shaft what your saying is not possible.
like i said i did this write up for people to understand how i figured out to do this.
not for others to tell me i did not do it correct.
im glad yours was done in 25 minutes, highly unlikely.
it sounds to me like you do not have an AWD turbo. with a front shaft what your saying is not possible.
like i said i did this write up for people to understand how i figured out to do this.
not for others to tell me i did not do it correct.
i did this write up for many people out there that ran into the same problem i did.
im glad yours was done in 25 minutes, highly unlikely.
it sounds to me like you do not have an AWD turbo. with a front shaft what your saying is not possible.
like i said i did this write up for people to understand how i figured out to do this.
not for others to tell me i did not do it correct.
im glad yours was done in 25 minutes, highly unlikely.
it sounds to me like you do not have an AWD turbo. with a front shaft what your saying is not possible.
like i said i did this write up for people to understand how i figured out to do this.
not for others to tell me i did not do it correct.
sounds like u have a nascar pit crew on standby
I attemped to do this on my C4S, but could not budge the 32mm front axel nut using brute force. Had to bring it to a P-Car specialist to do the job including the alignment. If I had an impact gun, I think at a minimum it would have been a 4-5 hour job not including alignment. Time flies when you are having 'fun'.
I changed the springs, pic below:
I changed the springs, pic below:
A good spring compressor is a must - don't have to take off the carrier if you compress the strut...
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Ha ha I knew everyone would start crying. I work on exotics for a living over time we learn short cuts after doing it everyday. We have all necessary lifts and tools. Was just sharing some tricks of the trade. Sorry you got so bent out of shape over some FRIENDLY input. It was not my intention to upset any of you. I obviously joined the wrong forum.
Ha ha I knew everyone would start crying. I work on exotics for a living over time we learn short cuts after doing it everyday. We have all necessary lifts and tools. Was just sharing some tricks of the trade. Sorry you got so bent out of shape over some FRIENDLY input. It was not my intention to upset any of you. I obviously joined the wrong forum.

I think the concept is the same as what I did - compress the spring and it will be a lot easier to get out without having to remove the wheel carrier.
U didnt upset me I just thought it was rude. Bent out of shape, over this forum doubt it.
Just took the time to do a write up to get criticized.
F it. Just a waste of my time.
Just took the time to do a write up to get criticized.
F it. Just a waste of my time.
There's no need for anyone to get upset. Fronts are a pain in the a$$... Especially if you haven't done them before. I did mine with basic garage tools and no lift. I am sure if you have done them before and have all the appropriate tools at hand it can be done quickly. I certainly call BS on 25min for both sides. Getting the car in the air and all your tools would take half that time!
i did mine last week, i just unhooked the tie rods, and the lower ball joints. I left the axle attached to the spindle. The front spring didnt have any pressure on it, so i did not need compressors for the front, or rear. I did it on a lift, so it was much easier not having to get up and down from the floor. I got it all done in 3.5 hours. I think i could easily shave 1 hour off the time if i had to to it again.
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