no way, i have more mods than that and am not at 628 whp...... especially on a stock clutch? please... this is crank HP, gotta be

 

He already stated stock was 440 hp, so obviously the numbers are projecting potential crank HP.

Once again, it is not the numbers that matter, but the delta change. This is no different than any of the other posts on numbers. I don't see why so many people get caught up in the numer opposed to the change. That is all that is accurate.

 

Nikolas what is the "delta change " ?? can you explain that to me please.?

 

The different between the first dyno and the current dyno.

For example, if I made 100 hp my first dyno run and 300 hp my current dyno run, the delta is 200hp.

 

Thank you very much,very clear now.

 

I think its a long shot for a stock clutch to handle even the 560-570 whp required for the 628 to be at the crank, but certainly not at the wheels.

This case has gotten to the point of needing a 60-130.

 

Today I did my first run.

Problems detect:
- when I started the motor after a few meters the ABS+PSM light turn on! After ran some kilomters I stoped the car and started again. The lights stayed off for 10 kilometers than turn on again! Strange. The MAF is new. If is a leak why the lights turn on in diferents times?

- the clutch fail in 6 gear at 4000 rpm. I have to upgrade it. What clutch do you recommend? I would like that the clutch pedal stay like stock.

Thanks,

 

As stated above - correct. It is merely the difference between "before and after" mods. Truly the only number/percentage that matters. The actual dyno number means absolutely nothing. To truly test your power gains, go to a 1/4 mile track and document your trap speed only. Don't worry about your time, reaction time or 60 foot numbers.

 

That's a bit over the top, dyno numbers definitely do mean something. If you have A28's at 1.4 bar and you make 450 whp, you can bet there is a problem. And dyno numbers can also give you a ballpark of where the performance numbers should be. Trap speeds etc. are also not perfect as they are also heavily subject to atmospheric conditions, elevation, etc. Same bone stock cars in different parts of the country can trap 5-8-10 mph difference. Shoot, same car can trap 2-3 mph difference on the same track on different days.

Dyno's are used all the time for gauging performance, especially when coming from reputable tuners who dyno'd the cars.

I understand where you are coming from, however for the people who haven't looked at enough dyno sheets to know what's going on, it's important that they have realistic expectations.

 

Absolutely not the case. The actual dyno number without knowing a baseline is useless. To think otherwise you are fooling yourself. There are so many variables with different dynos: fuel used, atomospheric conditions, elevation datum, ambient temperatures, not to mention the biggest factor (dyno calibration), that simple numbers off any dyno are worthless in depicting what is actually occuring with the car. The only numbers that give any evidence of peformance are strictly those numbers that show a delta change. The best numbers are those that show actual peformance related to HP, such as trap speed on a 1/4 mile. The fact that dynos are used to compare numbers between different tuners on different cars on different dynos is a classic example of "Tom foolery". Sorry but it is the truth. Thinking otherwise and you are "Tom foolerizing" yourself.

 

False. You do not need a baseline dyno number to predict anything. You can use relative performance numbers from other cars, dyno numbers from cars similar to yours in stock or modded form and overall general numbers to extract the numbers. As long as the dyno numbers aren't fudged, they can be used with or without a baseline.

Unfortunately your belief is severely flawed as someone in Vegas or Colorado somewhere at 2000-3000 ft elevation is not going to trap anywhere near someone in the northeast at sea level. And the same range of discrepancy you would need to use for that can be applied to differences in dyno types and numbers.

How much money do you want to bet that if you took a 996 TT that had been modded but never dyno'd to someone like Tony at EPL or Switzer or Markski that they could put it on the dyno and tell you about what it would trap to about 5 mph? I bought my car without any previous dyno history and posted my dyno numbers here on this forum and was told my car would trap 121-125. I'll give you 5 guesses how fast it trapped.

 

Your abs psm problem will probably be the brake light switch. Check your brake lights are working I bet it's just the €10 switch behind the pedal!

 

I know Rotronics dynos and the figures say on the graph "engine power" not wheel power. The problem with them is that they use a mixture of measured and calculated drivetrain losses, and therefore, it is plain impossible to know what WHP is on that dyno. However, having seen many cars tested on such a dyno, where a manufacturer rates a given crank number, what you get on a Rotronics is quite close to that, give or take a few HP. Now you US guys may discuss and argue for years that there is no way to measure losses, regardless, the stuff works

 

WADR - you are correct with my reference to trap speed. It would certainly need to be compared at the same track under the same conditions just like a dyno - Something that can never be repeated between different dynos let alone the same dynos. My point which is being missed here - is that the actual hp numbers cannot be compared between different dynos. Yes Tony and Steve can give accurate estimates of their dynos to a resulting trap speed. However, could Tony give an accurate estimate for a number placed on Steve's dyno? Doubtful at best. A dyno gives you a number, plain and simple. If you don't have a baseline you have nothing. I have seen dynos generate numbers on my car off by 50 whp with no change in mods. They are machines that require calibration, differ in atmospheric conditions, etc. How on earth could you possibly compare the two accurately? Always get a baseline or you are wasting your time.

 

I don't want to sound like the guy from poland with the TT GT3 but maybe you guys should try euro dynos, where anyone with any stock car (that works fine and that isn't f'd up) goes to pretty much any dyno and gets within 5 crank HP of what the manufacturer rates the car at. What you state defines a dyno as a totally random unreliable machine that in best case scenarios can spit out numbers based off a baseline, nothing else. Besides, the OP already has a baseline, as he posted 441 crank HP for his car as stock, which, assuming he has an aftermarket exhaust fitted to it, would make sense for crank HP. Maybe it's time for you guys to broaden your horizons and open your minds a little. Statements such as you made basically make any dyno owner frown and make them wish they'd never purchased a dyno.