996 Turbo / GT2 Turbo discussion on previous model 2000-2005 Porsche 911 Twin Turbo and 911 GT2.

Coolant hose failure on track - Pic & video

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Old Nov 15, 2011 | 09:30 PM
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A GT3 blew a coolant hose just a few minutes into the first session at last month's Diablo PCA track day at Thunderhill. No spins but it caused a huge mess on the track that took the better part of an hour to get cleaned up.

Not sure of the year but the car was pristine, probably a '10 or '11. It seems the problem is still present even in the newer models.
 
Old Nov 16, 2011 | 01:24 AM
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Originally Posted by VID997
^^^ If drilling and tapping, how do you keep the metal bits from entering the system?
Would like to know too?
 
Old Nov 16, 2011 | 06:17 AM
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The top of the engine has to be cleared to get access for removal of the components that the fittings are glued into. Then the fittings have to be heated and removed and the glue residue thoroughly cleaned out. Once that is done the fittings, or in my case the aftermarket replacement kit has to be welded in. The fittings from the kit are made of thicker material. Either way, the original curved fittings have to be reused. Here are some pics of the 8 welded in fittings.


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Last edited by landjet; Nov 16, 2011 at 06:23 AM.
Old Nov 16, 2011 | 08:07 AM
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Originally Posted by landjet
The top of the engine has to be cleared to get access for removal of the components that the fittings are glued into. Then the fittings have to be heated and removed and the glue residue thoroughly cleaned out. Once that is done the fittings, or in my case the aftermarket replacement kit has to be welded in. The fittings from the kit are made of thicker material. Either way, the original curved fittings have to be reused. Here are some pics of the 8 welded in fittings.


Attachment 163255
Attachment 163256
Attachment 163257
Huh big job. :-(.
 
Old Nov 17, 2011 | 05:23 AM
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Originally Posted by VID997
^^^ If drilling and tapping, how do you keep the metal bits from entering the system?
I think that you have two choices. One is to pressurize the cooling system so that when the wall is breached by the drill, positive pressure of the coolant will carry out the chips. The other would be to drain the system (mine was involuntarily emptied anyway), pull of the hoses and put a rag into the hole to catch the chips, and then clean everything carefully before reassembling and refilling.

Note that some of the fittings shown in Landjet's post cannot be reached with the motor in the car. It is my understanding, however, that the ones on the water pump are the ones most prone to failure.

Jon
 
Old Nov 17, 2011 | 05:59 PM
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Originally Posted by FAST FWD
Lost the left side coolant hose while on track this weekend. This is the hose from the water pump that sits right over the left rear wheel. Fortunately, I was going into the slowest corner on the track when it went.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9RBOJkH0FEI
if i see that i would check cyl head gaskit too....a lot pressure in coolingsystem
 
Old Nov 26, 2011 | 11:40 AM
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This is bs, If you ask me this should be covered under warrenty. I know its not going to be cheep on porsche but they have to keep customers happy or they will slowly fade out of the high end market. Cost cutting in this manner is not going to make them more money in the longrun. Hoses needing to be replaced at 30K thats not right at all.(Although there is no way to know if someone before has messed around with this OP's hose) the fittings on the other hand are another issue although its all cooling related

Other manufacturers hoses dont need to be replaced this early on. 30K is still low kms. Not to mention having hoses blowing out becuase the fitting holding them in place should have been welded in to begin with? This is poor quality, shotty design and bad corner cutting. Not to mention the mess made all over the engine bay and the costs its going to take to have this problem delt with. 8 fittings, this is not right. That sounds like a load of work needed to be carried out

Is it going to take someone dieing from spinning before they take action? Even if you spin and save yourelf the person behind is just going to blow right into you. I think everyone that has had this happen needs to get together and make sure all the small voices are gathered to become a larger louder voice (maybe then it will be heard) Im sure porsche knows of this and having now heard that 2010 models are still being fitted with the same glue in process apon manufacturing is just not right
 
Old Nov 26, 2011 | 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by landjet
The top of the engine has to be cleared to get access for removal of the components that the fittings are glued into. Then the fittings have to be heated and removed and the glue residue thoroughly cleaned out. Once that is done the fittings, or in my case the aftermarket replacement kit has to be welded in. The fittings from the kit are made of thicker material. Either way, the original curved fittings have to be reused. Here are some pics of the 8 welded in fittings.


Attachment 163255
Attachment 163256
Attachment 163257

nice work here btw. a+
 
Old Nov 26, 2011 | 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by FAST FWD
I think that you have two choices. One is to pressurize the cooling system so that when the wall is breached by the drill, positive pressure of the coolant will carry out the chips. The other would be to drain the system (mine was involuntarily emptied anyway), pull of the hoses and put a rag into the hole to catch the chips, and then clean everything carefully before reassembling and refilling.

Note that some of the fittings shown in Landjet's post cannot be reached with the motor in the car. It is my understanding, however, that the ones on the water pump are the ones most prone to failure.

Jon
A little Vaseline on the bit and tap does thr trick
 
Old Nov 26, 2011 | 03:32 PM
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A number of complaints have been filed with NHTSA in the US on this issue.
 
Old Nov 27, 2011 | 07:58 AM
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I ended up getting the hose fittings welded in the upper manifold just like Landjets 2nd picture. I'm hesitant to get it on the track for another DE until all of the have been properly pinned, but that's another shop bill. After this work I had a slow drip drip that turned out to be the bearing leaking on the water pump, so back in for that.

Car is back to normal and rips like before. No issues with head gaskets or the likes. Just make sure they get all of the air pockets out of the coolant system.

I registered my complaint on the NHTSA as well...
Good luck-
 
Old Nov 27, 2011 | 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by landjet
The top of the engine has to be cleared to get access for removal of the components that the fittings are glued into. Then the fittings have to be heated and removed and the glue residue thoroughly cleaned out. Once that is done the fittings, or in my case the aftermarket replacement kit has to be welded in. The fittings from the kit are made of thicker material. Either way, the original curved fittings have to be reused. Here are some pics of the 8 welded in fittings.


Attachment 163255
Attachment 163256
Attachment 163257

Guys, sorry to sound a bit daft, but isn't it easier just to replace the 'weaker' stock hoses with samco silicone hoses??
 
Old Nov 27, 2011 | 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Yazz911TT
Guys, sorry to sound a bit daft, but isn't it easier just to replace the 'weaker' stock hoses with samco silicone hoses??
Although this case (from the OP) was a hose failure, a lot of posts here are also talking about the other problem where the coolant hoses come off at the connection points. The welding, tapping, etc. techniques being discussed seem to address this other issue that some folks have been seeing.
 
Old Nov 27, 2011 | 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Aerodude
Although this case (from the OP) was a hose failure, a lot of posts here are also talking about the other problem where the coolant hoses come off at the connection points. The welding, tapping, etc. techniques being discussed seem to address this other issue that some folks have been seeing.
Thanks for explaining this aerodude. Can you further explain, when people have had failures at the 'connection points', what exactly has happened? Does the metal end piece detach from the hose or does the metal connectoin actually pop out of the water pump connection?
 
Old Nov 27, 2011 | 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Aerodude
Although this case (from the OP) was a hose failure, a lot of posts here are also talking about the other problem where the coolant hoses come off at the connection points. The welding, tapping, etc. techniques being discussed seem to address this other issue that some folks have been seeing.
Also, Samco makes boost hoses, not coolant hoses.
 


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