I have never done that, but I could not swear that it has never been done. The motor was out completely 18 months ago for a clutch, and other mods, and the DV's were done then. Since then, I am pretty sure it has not. I replaced the O2 sensors after those mods, but didn't lower the motor.

Note that the failure is longitudinal, which has to come from circumferential stresses associated with internal pressure. I would think that bending the hose when lowering the engine, which I assume is what you are getting at, would have produced a circumferential tear.

Interesting question, though. maybe others who have had this failure could weigh in.

Jon

 

Jon, I'm glad you're OK and the car wasn't damaged. I think Larry's solution of new hoses and welding the manifolds is correct. This is a real problem that has plagued the GT2/3/TT crowd from the beginning. What gets me is the "glued" in fittings... I just don't know of any other manufacturer ever doing that. It's a horrible design for sure.

Mike

 

Thanks Mike. There was some luck on my side for sure.

What gets me is that they are STILL doing it! If you replace these things with Porsche parts, they put the same junk back in.

Jon

 

I had the split hose replaced, along with its neighbor (two hoses on left in the photo), along with the corresponding hose on the opposite side of the motor. My tech has found a way to do the "Sharkwerks" fix on the fittings with the water pump in the car. He removes the airbox, alternator and idler pulley, and can then drill/tap the fittings in the car. See photo below.

Labor was 3.25 hours to replace the 3 hoses, do the fittings, and refill the system. YMMV, especially since he always seems to undercharge me for labor.

 

Why did you spin though? Wheel caught on some coolant leaking out of the broken tube? My friend had a crack in his X50 coolant pipe (on the right side) and all we noticed was smoke and coolant all over the place (but BEHIND him).

 

Same thing happened to me this season on track at Watkins Glen on turn 8 came down the short straight 125 mph late braking hose let loose did 2 spins into gravel trap stopped facing up track when 2 cars got into the mess both hitting each other and bouncing off the armer coat. I am really rethinking using coolant in the car next season on track.

 

I think it would be helpful for somebody in the know to share with us what to look for in these aging coolant hoses that might cause tearing. There has to be some sort of signs before a failure that can be looked for to keep these hose replacements on the preventative maintenance schedule instead of the un-scheduled sudden maintenance expense that may include body work.

I think I may do my coolant fittings this weekend. It looks really easy to get to.

 

I was already turning, and when the hose split, it dumped coolant all over the LR wheel. Sudden loss of traction at the LR on a RH turn, and you're going to spin.

Sounds a lot worse than my incident. Glad you're ok. As for rethinking using coolant - do you have a choice? Are you going to go for a 993?

Jon

 

Its not pretty or cheap as Ecthhead mentioned...

 

Not sure yet will go with what my shop is recommending. This was a DE advanced event very skilled drivers not much at any skill level driver could have done in this case. I think these events should be ran where the rules require safety precautions for any glycol based product. They should really be restricted like in may racing events.

 

Ah, you mean switching to distilled water then? Certainly a lot less slippery than glycol-based coolants.

 

That would save a lot of cars on track for sure!

 

Redline WaterWetter

Required on track bikes....

 

yep ! Will work to lower temps in most cases less them plan water. I have used this in heavy-duty diesel engines as well .

 

what year is this car?