Actually people should learn not to say "I want a 600hp setup" but instead "I want a 185 crank hp gain vs my stock 996TT". Otherwise you'll get a 85 hp gain from the "600hp mod package" then 100hp just from the dyno.

 

Yes you are right to a certain extent BUT wouldnt you want the most out of your set-up AND the safety to go along with it??

 

You are correct re knock sensor, only the damage is already occuring when the knock sensor detects knock - and all the while when the knock sensor tells the ECU, and the ECU starts to retard the timing to prevent further damage being made, the pinging is happening. It's a quick loop for sure but still ignition cycles are also fast so you'll have a lot of pings going on in your cylinders before it stops, every ping getting your engine one step closer to the very last one.

It's essentially an emergency function to save the owner from blowing up his car should he get bad gas or other problem with the vehicle that causes knock (like tweaked up boost without having a tuner adjust the fuel map/timing to match).

You might be at risk or you might not with or without a FPR, it depends on how your tune works at your boost level. FPR costs less than 100 EUR, install takes a couple of hours first time around. I believe an engine is like 15000 EUR and takes a couple of days to swap. Easy choice as I see it.

 

plane and simple, you need a tuner that will not damage your car, add more fuel if you want to be safer.. its a simple debate.... spend a few thousand now on a real tune, with a 5bar, you might as well send them off and make 16gs out of them, or take a chance of spending over 20k.... your car is telling you something is REALLY WRONG....... what someone else does wouldn't matter to me if i knew my car would not run within the limits it should... the choice is yours... good luck

 

Mike do you speak to me ? If so : i' m NOT worried because mine is a REAL Tuning since in Germany Rs-tuning is one of the most popular and respected Tuner for Porsche car ..
Onestly my CAR run very very well and it never sends to me symptoms to run out of fuel..
I run 1.1-1.2 but on stock K24's NOT on 16g's.

 

my bad!! thought i was responding to another thread.. (turbo imbalance) disregard

 

....:d

 

People usually overestimate. I have same setup as yours. Flash, car graphics, K&N filter, 1.2 bar solid, 1.3 peak. I have realistic 530bhp crank I was told.

 

That's an honest assesment. People can get so carried away (and fooled) with dyno numbers.

I ran 530 AWHP on Giac's Dyno. Stock 996T runs 330 AWHP. What's my crank?

 

Wow...On an AWD dyno to have 530 HP with k24s,on pump gas??..IMO it sounds like a happy AWD dyno because thats in K24/18g range.
Most say that you add 15 to 20 percent to the wheel dyno to come up with crank??...But then which,,a rear wheel dyno or an AWD dyno to say that....lol...

 

Look at my Sig. My car started life as an X50, it's now Garrett Ball bearings, EVO intercoolers, 60lb injectors, Hitachi MAF.

 

with the right mods, 525-550 is spot on.. its all about the tune and not adding too much at this level.... my cars slow.. lol happy new year guys!!

 

In my previous experiences Mustangs used to read 10% higher then Dynojets. IE stock 996tt reads 325 on EPL Mustand and 365 on my local Dynojet. Over the summer Dynojet has released an update and Dynojet close to me reads just like a mustang. Its rather annoying because you just dont know what to expect...

 

Sorry,did not look and see the GT 28's

 

On an AWD dyno,k24s pump gas?? That would be impressive!