Just wondering if some wool bonnets I just bought are safe for the 996's finish. I would be using it on an orbital buffer. I did my Infinity and seemed fine, but it already had light swirl marks, so it's hard to tell.

 

Wool is aggressive

Are you using it for wax or polish?

 

Like Ant said, wool is aggressive.

Detailers Domain (Phil) on here sells the different colored pads. They work the best for all levels of polishing.

Phill is great to deal with, he will answer all your questions and hook you up with what products you would like / need. I have bought various things from DD over the years and he has always given me fabulous customer service.

 

I have used the Griots orbital with very good results. I had some light swirls on my paint and used their Polish #2 which is a medium polish and then finished with the #3 which is a fine polish and really like how it looks. Their bonnets are made out of foam instead of wool or cotton. I finished it with P21S wax.

 

What do you guys recommend for the type of cloth/rag for removing the wax/polish after using the buffing wheel? Are the micro-cloth types good for the final wipe? I have cobalt blue paint, so it will show swirls easily.

 

100 micro fiber is great, dont press too hard, u can create swirls micro scrathces w anything

 

The Micro's are the best thing by far that I have found.
Here are some detailing how to's from the good folks at Adams products, they answer a lot of questions. I have also watched a bunch of good youtube how to's.

http://www.adamspolishes.ca/t-videos.aspx

 

Great info. Thanks Engine Guy.

 

Wool is typically reserved only for major paint correction (which it does well). It is very agressive and can easily burn paint if used on a rotary machine. A wool pad will not finish well and will mar the paint. For good results, it must be followed up with a less agressive pad and polish compound. It should not be used with wax.

When correcting paint, always start with the least agressive polish and work to a more agressive one only if needed. A good starting place may be a white or orange foam pad with a medium polish. Example include Meguiares 205 or Menzerna Power finish. Wash, clay, and tape off a 2-foot square to test. Do not continue with the rest of the vehicle until the results are satisfactory (i.e. the right amount of cut without introducing problems like holograms). If more cutting is required, move to a more agressive polish on an orange cutting pad. Examples include Meg's 105 or Menzerna Super Intensive Polish.

Clay the entire car, mask off the trim, and go to work. Don't work in the sun, and only apply a thin layer of polish according to the polish manufacturer's instruction. Do not attempt to polish out scratches that reach to the primer or can be felt. These are a lost cause and will require you to remove significant amounts of paint. Sometimes this means you can only correct to 70-80%.

A finish polish, used in conjunction with a finishing pad, is typically needed to extract the paint's full potential. This takes out the small scratches left by the previous polishing step. Follow up with a new finishing pad (typically black) to apply your wax or paint sealant. Use a thick, clean microfiber rag to gently remove the hazed residue. Stubborn wax residue typically occurs when the paint is too hot (e.g. in the sun) or too much product is used. In a pinch, quick detailer can help get it off.

Porsche paint on my 996tt is very enjoyable paint to correct and work with.

Autopia.org is a good forum to look through.